Hard top cracks from fasteners
#71
I e-mailed Chrysler about the cracks
Rather than go to the stealership, a process I find even less appealing than taking a very cold shower, I e-mailed a Chrysler person who is apparently in a position to make a call on warranty items. He in turn contacted another Chrysler guy, who in turn relayed a message: "these hard tops can be taken off and put on with no reported problems and/or further cracking. Currently there are no repair kits for this type of concern. Torque on the fasteners should be 5-10NM." I suppose that, translated, this message is "too bad so sad your tops are cracked and you need to live with it." Oh well. I decided to use a plastic knob with a big flat bearing surface for the top, and to buy a roll of 1/16th inch neoprene adhesive tape for the bottom. You can cut the tape into two-inch squares, stick it to the bottom of the top's rail (after you cut a hole for the threads), and that takes care of the weak rail being pulled to far towards the rail. You can also double up the tape to equal 1/8 inch if your gap is bigger. Easy fix, and no scratching up the top of your rails! I like the idea of a metal washer/plate for the top, but if a gap remains then a reinforced top would simply pull the entire base towards the rail...if it is overtightened. Filling in that gap is the way to go.
#72
JK Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: U.K North Wales
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The guys that heat weld repair plastic body moldings should be able to (weld) that crack back up without to much trouble. We use that kit to repair polypropylene boats.
Last edited by Rum Runner; 01-18-2010 at 03:19 PM.
#74
JK Junkie
I learned the hard way not to over-tighten the hard top bolts 2 Jeeps ago.
Since then first time I remove the top, I use over size washers to distribute the load. I have never had a problem with cracking the base when it came from the factory.
Since then first time I remove the top, I use over size washers to distribute the load. I have never had a problem with cracking the base when it came from the factory.
#75
JK Newbie
I noticed this happening about 4 months after taking delivery. Took a trip to the dealership, showed them what was going on, and a week later I had a new roof. No arguing, no fighting. Guess I got lucky...
In the meantime I had some plates made up for under the bolts similar to what Woods sells. Haven't had an issue since...
In the meantime I had some plates made up for under the bolts similar to what Woods sells. Haven't had an issue since...
#76
Ive got the same thing on one of mine. The crack is very small and only goes from the bolt hole to the interior of the jeep. I use a finger drive with a torx bit. I know that i dont tighen that too much. Its just a bad size washer i think that doesnt disperse the presure from the bolt enough
#78
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Oxford, MI
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Hey folks! I just happened to find the most visually appealing and simple solution to those factory bolts...check out the pics. Servalite is the manufacturer, and they are M8 x 50mm studs (I cut them down to 25). The bearing surface is 30mm across, far more than the factory bolt head size and bigger than most fender washers.