Heater Core Swap in 30 Mins
02-24-2018, 06:29 AM
#41
JK Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Wisconsin
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Gilead Garage,
Have you or anyone else attempted this procedure on a 2013? I'm also curious if it is the same. If so I'll be doing this next weekend.
I removed my glove box and everything looks mostly the same as RednRoll's images.
Have you or anyone else attempted this procedure on a 2013? I'm also curious if it is the same. If so I'll be doing this next weekend.
I removed my glove box and everything looks mostly the same as RednRoll's images.
02-24-2018, 06:41 AM
#42
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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Haha it's -30 degrees Celsius here in Manitoba right now. I flushed my core a couple times and it's a little better so im holding off until spring. My fiancées dad and i are going to flush the core with clr first and see if that works. If not he and I will try the swap. I eagerly await your results.
03-13-2018, 06:38 AM
#43
JK Enthusiast
My heater core just went on me yesterday. Looks like I'll be using this method when my new core comes in. FYI, you can get a spectra premium core on Amazon shipped for $64.00. A few dollars more from summit racing. I also picked up a tubing beader to make sure the lines are tightly connected. Earl's makes a nice one. Their part number is 010 for 5/8 tubing and is $46 on amazon. Now I just have to wait for it all to come in.
Last edited by 07WrangX; 03-13-2018 at 07:37 AM.
03-25-2018, 08:21 AM
#44
Thanks. A vid of it Did it this weekend and it worked great. Credited you of course!
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.p...00023258296881
QUOTE=B. Law;4237246]Assuming it's the actual core and not related to the lines in the firewall. My second heater core failed about a month ago and not wanting to pull the dash and all other bits for a third time I looked for an alternative route.
It turns out the dash doesn't have to be removed if you don't mind a little bit of cutting. Part of the dash 'cage' will need cut at the heater core to your speaker pod. I've not noticed and adverse effects with this piece now being gone and the glove box still functions properly. The best part is, super quick core changes on future failures!
Here's a few pics.
The bit that needs cut out.
Attachment 654191
An oscillating tool made cutting the lines eay.
Attachment 654192
Tubes on new core cut and ready to slide in.
Attachment 654195Attachment 654194
Hose spliced in and ready to refill and test.
Attachment 654196
Not all this had to be removed, but I was planning to do a super clean of the inside after the core replacement. You'll be able to get by with just removing the glove box, the square snap in panel below it and the hand full of screw around it. A bungee or small ratchet strap will help hold things out of the way while you operate.
Attachment 654193
On to the old core. Like the others, passenger side was clean and clear whilst the driver side was clogged with crap.
Attachment 654200Attachment 654199Attachment 654198Attachment 654197Attachment 654201
That's all there is to it if you don't mind slicing a little. Removing the dash for a 3rd time was just too much for me, life's too short to give up another weekend.[/QUOTE]
Video of some steps
QUOTE=B. Law;4237246]Assuming it's the actual core and not related to the lines in the firewall. My second heater core failed about a month ago and not wanting to pull the dash and all other bits for a third time I looked for an alternative route.
It turns out the dash doesn't have to be removed if you don't mind a little bit of cutting. Part of the dash 'cage' will need cut at the heater core to your speaker pod. I've not noticed and adverse effects with this piece now being gone and the glove box still functions properly. The best part is, super quick core changes on future failures!
Here's a few pics.
The bit that needs cut out.
Attachment 654191
An oscillating tool made cutting the lines eay.
Attachment 654192
Tubes on new core cut and ready to slide in.
Attachment 654195Attachment 654194
Hose spliced in and ready to refill and test.
Attachment 654196
Not all this had to be removed, but I was planning to do a super clean of the inside after the core replacement. You'll be able to get by with just removing the glove box, the square snap in panel below it and the hand full of screw around it. A bungee or small ratchet strap will help hold things out of the way while you operate.
Attachment 654193
On to the old core. Like the others, passenger side was clean and clear whilst the driver side was clogged with crap.
Attachment 654200Attachment 654199Attachment 654198Attachment 654197Attachment 654201
That's all there is to it if you don't mind slicing a little. Removing the dash for a 3rd time was just too much for me, life's too short to give up another weekend.[/QUOTE]
Video of some steps
Last edited by Mapmike; 03-25-2018 at 10:37 AM. Reason: Adding link
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Matt Baulier (05-28-2019)
12-08-2018, 05:48 AM
#46
Does anyone have comments about heater core manufacturers?
Don't want Mopar, they seem to fail.
Spectra?
Crown?
others?
Also, I assume I will need to drain antifreeze before cutting lines as described in the 30min core replacement sequence. Correct?
Thanks, Steve
Don't want Mopar, they seem to fail.
Spectra?
Crown?
others?
Also, I assume I will need to drain antifreeze before cutting lines as described in the 30min core replacement sequence. Correct?
Thanks, Steve
12-08-2018, 10:05 AM
#47
JK Junkie
From what I've read, it sounds like it's stuff carried by the coolant (particularly casting sand from the engine block) that's the problem, rather than defective heater cores.
12-08-2018, 02:32 PM
#48
Super Moderator
To avoid a re-occurrence it is best to install one of these filters into the HC inlet hose after replacing the heater core. Replacing the filter will be easier and more cost effective than replacing future heater cores.
This one can be found on Ebay.
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Mr.T (12-10-2018)
12-10-2018, 05:30 AM
#49
Former Vendor
As Mr.T mentioned, the failure is more about FCA's poor engine manufacturing process of their being casting sand left over in the engine block which eventually clogs up the heater core than the actual quality of the OEM heater core.
To avoid a re-occurrence it is best to install one of these filters into the HC inlet hose after replacing the heater core. Replacing the filter will be easier and more cost effective than replacing future heater cores.
This one can be found on Ebay.
To avoid a re-occurrence it is best to install one of these filters into the HC inlet hose after replacing the heater core. Replacing the filter will be easier and more cost effective than replacing future heater cores.
This one can be found on Ebay.
--Admins, please delete if not allowed--
Hey guys,
Just wanted to pass along that we've also been working on a coolant filter kit to help with these issue. You can check out our quick thread on it here: Mishimoto R&D: 2012-2018 3.6L JK Coolant Filter Kit
Feel free to PM us if you have any questions, don't want to hijack the thread
-Steve
12-10-2018, 09:34 AM
#50
JK Junkie