I just got back from the dealer picking up my Jeep. They replaced the throw out bearing and the clutch with the new part number clutch. The squeal and the squeak are both gone.

MY clutch does not feel like it did. I used to be able to just push the clutch in an inch or two and the clutch would be engaged. Now I have to push it almost all the way to the floor. I want to know how you bleed the hydraulic clutch assembly.

If I had to describe how it feels it is like a bad brake job (when you have air in the system).

I looked in the service book and it says to bleed the system but it does not tell you how to do it.

Any help ?? I would rather do this myself than to be without my jeep for another few days.

Thanks in advance.


From the book:

1. Install slave cylinder (3) in transmission.
2. Install hydraulic line (2) and with bracket to slave cylinder.
NOTE: Verify O-ring is on hydraulic line.


3. Install slave cylinder nuts (1) and tighten to 23 N·m (17 ft. lbs.).
4. Bleed hydraulic system.

 

Similar to brakes, just have someone pump and hold down the clutch. When they are holding down the clutch, open the bleeder till fluid comes out with no bubbles If you can't find something that resembles a bleeder screw, then it would be best to take it back so that you don't have to pay for flush. Plus they can hook up a pressure bleeder to the system if the dealer is equipped with such items.

 

I had the squeal and had the new p/n clutch put in and my squeal is gone....but now I have a chirp and ticking noise that goes away if you depress the clutch pedal about an inch. Too much preload on the throw out bearing now. The throw out bearing fork and pedal adjustment is only done by using shims behind the fork pivot. Sounds like you have the opposite problem I'm having. I have to take mine back in next week to have the tech look at it. He don't even need to drive it because if you are setting still in neutral with the motor running, you can hear it and if you reach in and press the pedal about an inch it gets quiet. I hope they have not damaged my throwout bearing, and shortened it's life.
Jim

 

I haven't done the JK before, but just had to replace the clutch master cylinder on my son's F-150 last week. Basically it's the same as brakes.

First: Make certain that the clutch master cylinder reservoir is topped off. Then slowly pump the clutch pedal about 5-10 times. Then wait about a minute and repeat. And again. And again. What this is doing is pushing the air in the system down the lines, you hope near the bleed screw.

Now, locate the bleed screw and attach a piece of hose to it. This is so you don't end up with brake fluid (which is what most clutches use) on your driveway. Then have another person push slowly down on the clutch while you open the bleed screw. Have him tell you when the pedal is about halfway down so that you can close the bleed screw before he reaches bottom or releases the clutch pedal (which would suck air right back up into the lines).

After you've closed the bleed screw, ask him how the clutch feels (how much play before it seems to "engage"). If it feels good, you're done. If not, repeat, keeping a check on the master cylinder fluid reservoir (if it runs dry, you'll have to start all over again). If after a couple times the clutch is still not right, try starting all over again with the pumping 5-10 times and waiting.

I hope that this helps.