Injector?
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1
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From: Coarsegold, CA
Injector?
I am thinking I need to check my #5 injector, but wanted to get some other opinions.
Several times now, I have had the #5 spark plug go bad. Either the insulator breaks apart or some other detonation looking thing happens to it. When I take it out, it looks like it has been running lean, it is usually doesn't spin out very freely and it looks like it has gotten hot. The coil pack and the plug wires (along with the plugs) were replaced about a year ago. Replacing the #5 spark plug produces a smooth running engine every time for about 500 miles, but the problem always comes back, usually with a slight miss that grows worse over the next couple of days and ends up with with a p305, a flashing engine light and occasional backfires... This is the third (maybe fourth?) time now. So far no catalytic converter codes ...
I have already run a couple of different fuel cleaner products through the tank to no avail.
I have looked around the internet and do not see any walkthroughs on how to remove/replace the injectors for a closer look. I am generally mechanically inclined, and I wanted to see what people thought of the general difficulty level involved with removing/replacing injectors on this thing. I am also hoping that someone might point me to a video or something that can further explain this procedure before I start tearing into it myself.
I have a 2010 rubicon unlimited with a 3.8l Engine and a six-speed manual transmission. The only thing that is not stock (that I know of) is the banks ram-air intake, which came with the vehicle when I bought it with 28,000 miles on it back in 2012. It now has somewhere in the neighborhood of 120,000 miles on it.
I figured I would check here first, as some of the jobs on this thing seem to be waaay more difficult than they need to be. Read: heater core!
It did run a little above operating temperature a couple of times (but never got anywhere near overheated) but replacing the radiator cap once time and then and bypassing the core fixed the coolant leak. I can't say that my wife is happy about driving around in the 30 degree freeze with no heat though... I would rather pay someone to do all that work. I think I hate Mercedes.
Another thing I would like to mention is the in-dash code reader deal. For some reason, it no longer seems to report any codes, as I am able to pull codes with a reader, but the instrument panel only shows ------- and no code. Any ideas on this one? It used to report the codes until a few months ago...
Anyway, help?
Several times now, I have had the #5 spark plug go bad. Either the insulator breaks apart or some other detonation looking thing happens to it. When I take it out, it looks like it has been running lean, it is usually doesn't spin out very freely and it looks like it has gotten hot. The coil pack and the plug wires (along with the plugs) were replaced about a year ago. Replacing the #5 spark plug produces a smooth running engine every time for about 500 miles, but the problem always comes back, usually with a slight miss that grows worse over the next couple of days and ends up with with a p305, a flashing engine light and occasional backfires... This is the third (maybe fourth?) time now. So far no catalytic converter codes ...
I have already run a couple of different fuel cleaner products through the tank to no avail.
I have looked around the internet and do not see any walkthroughs on how to remove/replace the injectors for a closer look. I am generally mechanically inclined, and I wanted to see what people thought of the general difficulty level involved with removing/replacing injectors on this thing. I am also hoping that someone might point me to a video or something that can further explain this procedure before I start tearing into it myself.
I have a 2010 rubicon unlimited with a 3.8l Engine and a six-speed manual transmission. The only thing that is not stock (that I know of) is the banks ram-air intake, which came with the vehicle when I bought it with 28,000 miles on it back in 2012. It now has somewhere in the neighborhood of 120,000 miles on it.
I figured I would check here first, as some of the jobs on this thing seem to be waaay more difficult than they need to be. Read: heater core!
It did run a little above operating temperature a couple of times (but never got anywhere near overheated) but replacing the radiator cap once time and then and bypassing the core fixed the coolant leak. I can't say that my wife is happy about driving around in the 30 degree freeze with no heat though... I would rather pay someone to do all that work. I think I hate Mercedes.Another thing I would like to mention is the in-dash code reader deal. For some reason, it no longer seems to report any codes, as I am able to pull codes with a reader, but the instrument panel only shows ------- and no code. Any ideas on this one? It used to report the codes until a few months ago...
Anyway, help?
