Looking at using a JK CRD in sand, how does it perform, being a diesel, and in my case, manual?
Do you need to take long runups for high sand dunes for example?
When do you switch off the "ESP" , if ever ?
Any advice you can give me about driving this vehicle, that I must be aware of when going off-road?

Where on the dash are the "pre-heat" light to indicate when the glowplugs are hot, if it got that?
Mine struggles to start in the morning, and I have no idee when and if the glowplugs are hot.I keep the ignition at the last notch, before it actually swings the engine , for about 5s, but makes no differance. It still swings 4 or 5 times before it start and then with alot of white smoke.

How do you remove the rear headrests, if you can - not the centre one but the other 2?

Thanx for all help.
__________________

 

Mate, you might have a problem with this because the poor old yanks don't get the diesel as far as I know!!!!
I was in a Californian dealer a few weeks ago asking about US options for the Wrangler, and I wondered why I kept getting this blank look from him - when I read the booklet he gave me, there was no mention of the diesel engine at all.
I have heard that you can even get a Rubicon in Diesel inEurope, but I am not 100% on that.
I don't own my CRD yet, but I'm ordering it once Chryser let us know what the options/colors etc are for the new 2011 model.
I am sure that more knowledgeable Americans will be able to help you!!!

Alan in Adelaide, South Australia

 

The CRD should be driven like you would the petrol...

Advise that you get an extra Oil Cooler fitted for the trannie (auto only) if doing a lot of sand... it gets hot backs up the stick tube and on to the exhaust manifold... fire is a result... there should be a TSB for it ask your dealer URGENT...

As for ESP turn it off completely in accordance with the hand book... Hold button down for 7 sec, until light in dash says ESP off and a chime will sound... this will need to be done every time you start the jeep because it resets when turned off...

The jeep will free up after a couple of thousand miles nicely... it is tight at first... Note the JK is also programmed for a run in time and should not be driven hard until it has had its first service at about 1000 miles...

Sorry but I drive a petrol shorty here in Aussie but have mates with the diesel... with regards to the head rests I just took the whole seat out and that fixed it LOL...

Do a search for an aussie forum and you will find heaps on the diesel....

 

Thanx for the info. Will check out the forums downunder. ;-)

 

The Glow plug light for cold start, ( i.e. first start of the day, or if its been standing for a number of hours), comes on for less than 1 or 2 seconds, after you have turned the ignition key all the way forward to the prestart position, so you got to be quick to see it.
It is centred in the middle of the display between the two dials.
As soon as it goes out start up.
If the conditiions are warm, (not often over here) or the engine is still hot, the light will not show, so just start it up.
If your getting white smoke, that probably unburnt fuel, (You haven't waited for the glow plugs to heat up, or missed the time for the initial burn)
Or you may have one or more plugs not working, in which case will require new ones.
Have you got a manual ? its all in there.
The dash light could be kaput, so just turn key to just before start position where all the warning lights show, count one and hit the starter on two. That's about the time it takes on mine.
RLT

 

I agree with all the above.
Personally I have rarely seen the glow plugs light coming on (I live in a cold environment).

PS: in spite of their "friendliness" to be treated harshly, turbodiesels do require a bit more attention that their equivalent gasoline counterparts. Do respect carefully warm-up and cool-down cycles and you will ensure a good life for the turbo and your wallet.

So don't race the engine when cold, but wait until at least the coolant has reached operating temeprature (careful! the oil is still cold!); and allow for some seconds or dozens of seconds at idle after some high-speed run (i.e. while on the highway).

In addition to that, be wary of whatever fuel you put on it, modern common-rail Diesels do not enjoy "dirty" fuels like old engines did, and may develop injector/pump problems which can translate in costly repairs.

The cat and eventually DPF (antiparticulate filter), if fitted, also do not like dirty fuels.
Overall the 2.8 VM is a good engine. Might want to chip it if too "weak" at low RPMs, I have seen some mild tuning (ca. 200hp) and guys are running it without problems.

Happy motoring!

 

I suspect 1 or more of the glowplugs might be dead, will take them out and test them.
Now I must just get time to go and test the vehicle - for what it is made for ;-)

 

Mine is also slow to start in the mornings. The dash lights diagram in the owners manual has their location.
Check the battery. Early ones swelled up and leaked after a while.
On the beach the crd is good but you have to keep the turbo spooled up or it will stall. ESP has to be off or it keeps putting the brakes on.
Here's a tip. Pull off the rear muffler. It makes almost no difference to the sound but it spools up faster.

Go for a wide AT tire. My 285 KM2s dig in a bit but are not too bad with 20 psi.

 

An excerpt from the FSM JK 2007 for the 2.8 CRD engine (177 HP) for those of you which need more info on this topic and how to troubleshoot:

"INSPECTION - STARTING SYSTEM
The following starting system components should be carefully inspected whenever any starting system problem is encountered.

WARNING: On vehicles equipped with airbags, disable airbag system before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for airbag system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable airbag system. Failure to take proper precautions could result in accidental airbag deployment and possible personal injury.

Battery
Visually inspect battery for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded cable connections. Determine state-of-charge and cranking capacity of battery. Charge or replace battery, if required. Refer to Battery for battery cleaning and inspection procedures.

Ignition Switch
Visually inspect ignition switch for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections. Clean corroded connections as required. Refer to Wiring Diagrams. Refer to Ignition Switch and Key Lock Cylinder for ignition switch service procedures.

Clutch Pedal Position Switch
If vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, visually inspect clutch pedal position switch for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections. Clean corroded connections as required. Refer to Clutch Hydraulic Linkage for clutch pedal position switch service procedures.

Park/Neutral Position Switch
If vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, visually inspect park/neutral position switch for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections. Clean corroded connections as required. Refer to Park/Neutral Position Switch for park/neutral position switch service procedures.

Starter Relay
Visually inspect starter relay for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections. Clean corroded connections as required. Refer to Starter Relay for starter relay service procedures.

Starter Motor
Visually inspect starter motor for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections. Clean corroded connections as required. If problem being diagnosed involves improper starter engagement, disengagement or noise complaints, starter motor should be removed. With starter motor removed, inspect starter pinion and ring gears for damaged or missing teeth. Replace faulty components as required. Refer to Starter Motor for removal/installation procedures.

Starter Solenoid
Visually inspect starter solenoid for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections. Clean corroded connections as required. Refer to Starter Motor for starter solenoid service procedures.

Wiring
Visually inspect starting system wire harnesses for indications of physical damage. Repair or replace any faulty wiring, as required. Refer to Wiring Diagrams for repair or connector and terminal service procedures. "

(...)

"CAUTION: The glow plugs operate on a 7 volt system. The glow plugs DO NOT tolerate any over voltage. Full battery voltage will destroy the glow plug immediately. DO NOT test the glow plugs with a 12V source as damage will occur to the glow plug.

CAUTION:
Never bend, bump or knock the ceramic glow plugs.
Ceramic glow plugs must not be handled loose in a container. Store, handle, and transport them only in original boxes.
If there is any doubt about the proper condition of a glow plug, do not reuse it.
Do not clean the glow plugs with abrasive or aggressive media.
Avoid dipping the glow plug into fluids.
Read Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). If a glow plug problem is indicated, do not start the engine.

CAUTION:
Disregarding these instructions may cause severe engine damage.

Glow plugs are used to help start a cold or cool engine. The glow plugs will heat up and glow to heat the combustion chamber of each cylinder. An individual glow plug is used for each cylinder.

OPERATION
The Engine Control Module (ECM) monitors various engine sensors. When the ignition key is turned to the ON position, the ECM sends a signal to the glow plug module (relay) to turn on, and cycle, the glow plugs for a pre-determined amount of time, plus illuminate the glow plug light in the instrument panel. Once activated, the element inside of the ceramic core of the glow plug begins to glow. Each glow plug draws approximately 8 amps, for a total system amperage of 32 amps at 22? C (72? F) ambient temperature. If there is a fault with the glow plug system, the ECM will store a fault code


DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - GLOW PLUGS
CAUTION: DO NOT start the engine before the glow system tests correctly.


1. Measure the electrical resistance of the glow plug in the installed condition. Resistance should be less than 0.8Ω. The ground contact must be as close as possible to the glow plug contact to avoid introducing errors into the measurement.
2. If the resistance is out of tolerance, remove the glow plug and check it again separately.
3. Use the actuator test function for the glow plug module and glow plug lamp. The design and function of the glow plug module tests each glow plug to check the complete glow system.
4. If MIL is OFF and OBD has not recognized a malfunction of the glow system, testing is finished and the engine can be started.
5. If MIL is still ON, check the electrical connectors of glow plugs and power up the glow plugs again. "

Some excerpts from FSM (print screens)







And some part no/codes:

1. GLOW PLUG - 68029497AA (USA ~ 48,40 USD) (in Europe search also for ADA101805)
2. GLOW PLUGS WIRING - 68027381AC or 68027381AA or 68027381AB (USA ~ 89 USD)
3. GLOW PLUG MODULE - 05033351AA (USA ~ 154-199 USD)
Have a great wheeling 2014 out there ...

 

Thanks for rubbing it in Alan in Alelaide, South Australia