Valve cover oil leak
 

Looks like I'm leaking at the valve cover. It runs down the rear drivers side of header then block to the bell housing. Is this an easy fix?
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Whenever I see a leak with no obvious source, I clean all the residue off with brake cleaner (cold engine) and keep an out out for where it starts from.

If I run my finger on the edge of the cover gasket area I get oil. Especially back corner. Is it easy to pull the cover?

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I haven't done it, so I can't advise on accessibility.
Here are the steps. (Often what looks like a valve cover leak is spilled oil from an oil change.)

Removal

1. Remove the ignition coil pack.
2. Disconnect spark plug wires from spark plugs.
3. Disconnect PCV hose from cylinder head cover.
4. Remove the generator support bracket.
5. Remove cylinder head cover bolts.
6. Remove cylinder head cover and gasket.


Installation

1. Clean cylinder head and cylinder head cover mating surfaces. Inspect cylinder head cover surface for flatness. Replace gasket as necessary.
2. Assemble gasket to cylinder cover by inserting the fasteners through each bolt hole on cover and gasket.
3. Install the cylinder head cover and bolts.
4. Tighten cylinder head cover bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).
5. Connect PCV hose.
6. Install the ignition coil pack and plug wires.
7. Install the generator support bracket.
8. Connect spark plug wires to spark plugs.

Simple enough. It's on drivers side so definitely not oil spillage. Thanks for your help.

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Don't forget to change the grommets around the bolts and use lots of lubricant like a synthetic o ring grease or Vaseline....also you'll see the bolts have automatic stoppers so tighten them till they stop...I just did mine last week.

What's this about an automatic stopper on the bolt? Wouldn't that preclude having a torque value on the bolt?

At least on my 11'. There's no torque wrench required. The bolts have a "shoulder" that limits how far down the bolt will go..you just tighten them down til they stop.that way there's no crushing or squeezing the rubber o ring type gaskets

It's pretty simple, just did it a couple weeks ago. Hardest part is getting a 1/4" drive with u-joints wiggled between the intake manifold and the cover, and then wiggling the valve cover out of the engine bay with the tricky clearances of surrounding stuff

I looked on mine. I see the shoulder you are talking about.
I think the torque spec is there to make sure it's tight enough to not loosen, yet not so tight it strips the threads.

At only 105 in/lbs, I probably wouldn't use a torque wrench, either. Now people have an idea how tight to make them.

Where did you find just the grommets for the bolts?