lwp411

I stand on the outside of the doors, with the window down, open them so they are straight out from the jeep. I support the bottom of the door with one hand, and the other goes up under the top edge of the window/door frame. This allows me to lift the door straight up off the hinges, and I can rest it on my shoulder (as tho it was a big ass handbag) if need be once its off. When I'm carrying it into the garage, I usually move the hand that was on the bottom edge to the rear view mirror mount since they are big enough to provide support. When I put the doors back on, I carry them this way too, with one hand supporting the top of the window frame and the other holding the mirror mount, since I find this makes it easy to move the door as necessary to align both pins...easy peasy and no pressure on the back at all

Soupy1957

Again, Yeah they are heavy, period. Whether I'm taking them off, or putting them on. MY biggest frustration, is the lack of the handle on the inside of the door, (new style door) and the increased weight.

Ordered a Cover (the kind that lays over the entire cab and the face of the windshield, like I had on my 2008, for foul weather (should arrive in a day or two) and also a spare tire cover.

I put on the external side mirrors that I had ordered, which arrived yesterday. They work great!!!

Fiveofun

I roll my windows down, stand on the outside of the door, grab the door handle with one hand and the bottom of the mirror with the other and lift up. Always worked ok for me.

Cutman

Me too. I'm amazed we're the only 2. Seems simple enough

Instructor

I have to agree, mine are manual windows and locks and the first time I took them off I was very surprised how heavy they were/are.
To make things worse, they get all rusted up (yes, I know about replacing the bushings, and will someday) and sometimes you have to persuade them a bit to get them going. Then, they're just heavy again.
I have found the best for me is:
rolling down the window, opening the door about 90*, standing inside, putting both hands on the top part of the door frame and either just pressing up or keeping my back straight and pushing up with my legs.
Carry them to the basement over my shoulder like a shoulder bag.

Its-a-JK

The first time taking the doors off was a royal bitch but after a few time i was able to start taking mine off this way as well. Since I started hanging them on rafter hooks in the garage I started grabbing the door handle and the door bottom below the hinge, makes it easier to hoist up without having to reposition the grip.

Four Low

The reason the doors are much heavier than Old Generation TJ ; Safety Standards.
Doors have to have side impact anti-intrusion beams, to meet Federal Safety laws.
The JK 2dr weighs in about 3800 lbs ( manual trans, no power windows, soft top)
The TJ weighed about 3200lbs. That 500 lb difference is due to larger size, and extra weight of Federally mandated safety improvements.
I complained about extra weight until I saw how well the JK protected its human cargo during a crash, especially compared to the older versions. The TJ was the first to have air bags, a huge life saver.
Using aluminum, that is lightweight, strong, and expensive, will doubtless solve the issues.

larry0071

Yep. Same as these fellows. I open the door, window rolled down, stand on the outside of the door, one hand hangs under the bottom of the door so that the weight of the door is on that arm that is hanging straight down. This way, you are not using muscles to hold the door other than your hooked fingers, your bone structure is doing the hard work. The other hand controls the door with the door handle.

I also rub a light bit of BellRay Waterproof grease onto the pins any time I remove the doors, that is maybe 1 or 2 times a year. They slide right out and have zero corrosion.

LURCHHD

I'm 59 and disabled, so after 1 time taking off and putting the door's back on I decided to come up with a easier and or smarter way.
I had an old gas generator that wouldn't run, I took it apart and just left the frame. Went to the junkyard and found an old car Jack, some scrap pieces of metal, paper and pencil, tape measure and started drawing. I'm far from being done but I do have a working prototype. I also designed some brackets to bolt to the wall, so all I do is roll this under the door, unhook the appropriate stuff.
I take an impact and raise it up to the bottom of the door, connect a piece to the door where the window rolls down. Screw the jack up to free the hinge, roll it over to the wall and screw the jack down on my wall brackets. The door hangs flat against the wall and out of the way and I'm not taking as much of a chance of damaging my doors.
Sorry about being so long winded but it's sort of hard to explain. I'll have better pics tomorrow.
Thanks for reading.

PARKER17

Suction Cup Lifter - Dual Cup Suction Cup Lifter

I use a suction cup lifter from harbor freight. Sticks right to the outside of the door and makes lifting much much easier. I prefer putting it on vertically right by the hinges to prevent warping the door sheet metal. They are rated for 120 pounds and work great.