Mr.T

P0706-TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR RATIONALITY
Theory of Operation
The C1 through C4 (T1, T3, T41, and T42) sense circuits communicate the shift lever position to the PCM.
Each circuit is terminated at the transmission with a switch. Each switch can be either open or closed,
depending on the shift lever position. The PCM can decode this information and determine the shift lever
position. Each shift lever position has a certain combination of switches, which will be open and closed, this
is called a PRNDL code. There are 4 switches, therefore: there are many possible combinations of open and
closed switches (codes). However, there are only 9 valid codes (8 for AutoStick), one for each gear position
and three recognized between gear codes. The remainder of the codes should never occur, these are called
invalid codes. The following chart shows the normal switch states for each shift lever position.

When Monitored:
Continuously with the ignition on.
Set Condition:
The DTC will set if the controller detects an invalid PRNDL code which lasts for more than 0.042
seconds.

Possible Causes
SHIFTER OUT OF ADJUSTMENT
TRS SENSE CIRCUIT OPEN
TRS SENSE CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
TRS SENSE CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
METAL DEBRIS IN OIL PAN
TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE

Always perform the 42RLE Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding.
(Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - 42RLE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
TRS SWITCH STATES
SLP T42 T41 T3 T1
P CLOSED CLOSED CLOSED OPEN
R CLOSED OPEN OPEN OPEN
N CLOSED CLOSED OPEN CLOSED
OD OPEN OPEN OPEN CLOSED
3 OPEN OPEN CLOSED OPEN
L CLOSED OPEN CLOSED CLOSED

EHarris

Thank you so much. Everything that I found points to repairing the range sensor. I decided rather than try and clear it myself and take the chance of getting stuck again somewhere that isn't my house, I am going to tow it to the dealer so they have the code in the system and can diagnose it. I guess I am running the risk of it being something that isn't covered under the lifetime powertrain warranty but I'll deal with that issue if I get and when I get to it. I'll keep this thread updated.

Anyone else have this issue and had it fixed?

EHarris

Here is what it sounds like.

Mr.T

Been gone all day -- If your trying to crank in the video it might be a bad ground at at the engine block that several others have reported. The reported quick fix was often adding another ground wire from bat- to the alternator bracket, which you could try with a jumper cable temporarily. I believe it was Ronjenx that speculated the relationship to the PRNDL was the ground path.

edit: Try a search with terms like ground, wire, click, start, and auto transmission for more info. Have you towed it yet?

EHarris

Thanks for the response. I have the extra ground hooked up to the alternator bracket. As soon as I made this fix about 2 years ago my "no start" gremlin went away immediately. At the time I was having the rear main seal leak fixed and I asked them to look at the transmission range sensor since my vehicle would often not start in park without pushing forward on the shifter or putting it into neutral.

When I saw that code come up this morning I was hesitant to clear it or disconnect the negative battery terminal in case it is actually the transmission range sensor. It was due into the dealership on Monday for the 10 year lifetime powertrain check up. The range sensor if broken would be covered. I was afraid if I cleared it and it went away for a while then I wouldn't have an opportunity to get it fixed and it could leave me stranded on a trip.

EHarris

I had a free tow with my car insurance so I had it towed to the dealer. It's definitely on my mind if the disconnect of the negative would have started it right up. They gave me a rental with the $155 diagnostic fee a possibility if it isn't covered under the powertrain warranty.

It was def a really tough call this morning. I sat on it for about 3.5 hours before I made that call.

Mr.T

Sounds good, that lifetime warranty was a great deal at the time!

EHarris

I'm reading some things that say it could be a bad battery too which I have until the 15th to have my sears agm replaced for free. Maybe I'll go over there and have them test it and hope for a free battery too.

Mr.T

Yep, even battery terms.

Rednroll

Let us know what the dealer diagnoses. After reading through what you posted, I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the common shifter/linkage problem many with high mileage seem to have. No one ever posted a code, but I've read where the linkage problem result in a no start condition.