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New shocks install
So I got my Rancho shocks in today. I bought the RS999330 for the back and the RS999329 for the front. My jeep had a 2.5" lift with a 3" puck spacer in the front and a 2" puck spacer in the rear. All done by the previous owner. He also had 2" spacers on all the oem shocks. The ride was that bad, but I could hear a pretty solid bump when my passenger rear tire dropped on one of our Louisiana hwy "speed" bumps. I looked at the rear shock and found it was dented from the sway bar bracket so I bought the new shocks.
They ride really good with less sway and pitch change on braking. I am pretty happy with the shocks and Matt with Rancho has been a big help as I have never done a shock change on any of my jeeps before. Problem is I still get a pretty solid thump/bump on the rear passenger side on hard road bumps. I pulled the rear wheel and checked everything for tight and re-torqued the rear wheel which was really tight to start with. After sweating my tail off I have called it a day with a couple of favorite beverages so no test drives now. I wondered if the sound was the spare tire. It is on the oem mount and is a beefy Ballistic Offroad 17" with a 285 70 R17 tire mounted on it. I plan to test ride it tomorrow and if I still hear the bump to pull the spare off for a second test drive. Any other suggestions on what to check would be greatly appreciated. |
Track bar relocation bracket
So after my last test run on some old gravel roads in Arkansas, I washed the jeep and crawled around under it and found that the track bar bracket on the frame side hit my new shock and put a small dent in it. Also it appears that the bolt and nut on the bracket is hitting on the rear end shock mount plate.
So I am thinking about taking the track bar drop down bracket of the frame side and putting on either an adjustable track bar or the axle side relocation bracket. Not sure which yet. after finding that I then checked the location of the rear end and can clearly see the tire on the drivers side is showing 3/4" more than on the passenger side. I do not know how much it will move to the right to just remove the frame bracket, but I am thinking about just trying that first to see where every thing sits. I am amazed that I never noticed the off center position of front or the rear drive train. Yep, the front is off too, but not bad. Can't tell it driving it. I only put a leveling kit on my 2010 so this is all new stuff for me. |
When I installed my lift I used the Rock Krawler front adjustable track bar using the factory mounts. Did not have an issue. I have since switched to the Synergy adjustable track bar and now have an Artec Truss installed on the axle and still using the factory frame mount. Before buying a axle relocation bracket ask yourself are you going to upgrade to a drag link flip? If so look for an axle bracket that works with a drag link flip so you are only buying once. As for the thump on the passenger side I would check all your control arms bolts for proper torque.
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After a lot of checking and torqueing I found the muffler hanger "rubber" had a lot of slop in the lower hole so I safety wired it and that got rid of most of the bumping. Now it is only on really big bumps.
I pulled the frame bracket off and reconnected the track bar to the oem mount. Now my tires are just 1/4" offset to the passenger side where before it was 3/4" to the drivers side. It drives fine like this so I think I am done with the suspension upgrades as this will be my DD. Thanks for you input.
Originally Posted by Canvas
(Post 4224254)
When I installed my lift I used the Rock Krawler front adjustable track bar using the factory mounts. Did not have an issue. I have since switched to the Synergy adjustable track bar and now have an Artec Truss installed on the axle and still using the factory frame mount. Before buying a axle relocation bracket ask yourself are you going to upgrade to a drag link flip? If so look for an axle bracket that works with a drag link flip so you are only buying once. As for the thump on the passenger side I would check all your control arms bolts for proper torque.
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