Woody208

Recently my 2012 JKU sport started overheating. I've traced the cause to the electric fan. (I've run power directly to the fan terminals and get nothing). I called the dealership to see how much that plastic fan assembly was and was quoted $617...OUCH! I did find one on Amazon as well as Ebay for around $400 which are supposedly OEM fans. I may end up going this route but has anyone used the "universal" fans that the parts stores carry for about $70. Just curious if anyone has done this or has strong reservations against it. I'm leaning heavily toward the Amazon option but figured someone on here has ran across this already. Any input is appreciated.

ps. i don't post alot so if i have this in the wrong location or missed a previous post about this (and i did look) please let me know.

jedg

Wow! Try Rock Auto? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+assembly,2181

resharp001

Dang, I had no clue the fans cost that much. Would have never guessed.

Woody208

Thanks for the suggestion...kind of forgot all about them. I just ordered one.

karls10jk

Looks like I got a decent deal buying a used one for $20. I stripped it for the motor and ditched the rest.

jedg

Yeah, I think there's a difference in the motors from 2007-2011 and 2012+... I know I didn't pay that much for a replacement motor in my 2011. I know the 2007-2011 is a two-speed system and the 2012+ is variable speed system. I would NOT think the motors would be any different as they both just spin at a given speed based on the amount of current provided... ??

Woody208

Well, it looks like i'm throwing parts at the problem. I replaced the radiator fan and have the same exact issue...runs hot. Temp guage normally runs at mid point of the guage and is now running close to the 3/4 hash mark. So far, the idiot light hasn't come on (yet). I do have a new thermostat that i could put it but would rather not if it isn't the issue...i was told that i can take the thermostat out and if it doesn't overheat, then the thermostat is likely not opening up enough to allow proper flow...is this worth a try or should i just put the new one in since i already have it? I tried to check the sensor on the engine block but I couldn't get the plug off of it and didn't want to risk breaking something else...besides, the fan is screaming so it seems like it is functioning. is there a way to check to see the water pump is working properly? The oil & coolant look normal so i'm not thinking head gasket at this point. I know its limited info but is there something else obvious i should be checking or should do that i'm missing? Any suggestions to try would be appreciated.

also, just FYI...i've checked electric fans in the past by running 12v directly to the lead terminals in the plug. That apparently doesn't work on these...there is a third wire (a small green wire) that i'm guessing is tied to the electronics that makes a relay or something for the fan to turn on. I'm not sure what the ohm reading should be but i put an ohm meter on the fan leads and the original one read 22-24 ohms...the new fan read "OL".

jedg

So there is a difference between the older and newer fan motors. My fan motor had two wires. I know that yours fan system is variable speed, so perhaps there's more built into your fan motor than mine and that third wire is the signal wire with the other two being +12v and ground?

As for other ideas... I'm a bit stumped. Is the jeep actually overheating on you or are you only seeing the gauge displaying it as hot? Do you have an OBDII reader? Perhaps look at the actual temperature value that the computer is seeing with the reader? That would at least let you know if it's the gauge?

Woody208

I don't have one but i have a buddy who does. I'll check that tonight. Only thing that makes me think it is OK is that i've never heard the fan run so loudly until i saw the needle creeping toward the third hash mark on the gauge. Either way, its a pretty easy thing to verify that i hadn't really thought of.

Rednroll

I could very well be wrong, but I believe the fan speed is controlled by a PWM voltage.

I believe the 3rd wire is a fusible link wire. So maybe a fan is not even needed if the fusible link is the problem.

I could be wrong since I never had to diagnose mine but I recall reading similar discussions of where just the fusible link needed to be replaced.