Replacing 3.8L engine w/ reman -- how to prime oil pump
#1
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Replacing 3.8L engine w/ reman -- how to prime oil pump
I'm getting ready to replace my 2011 3.8L w/ a new reman due to oil consumption issues.
Everything says that I need to pre-prime the oil system. However, I can't find anything is the factory service manual that actually says HOW to prime the oil system.
(I've searched on here as well, and haven't found anything either.)
The best I can guess is I need to install a nipple into the oil pressure sensor port, and force oil into the engine until it hopefully appears on the lifters. I've seen suggestions (for other engines) on everything from hand-pumps, to pressurized tanks.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to best do this for the 3.8L?
Thanks!
Everything says that I need to pre-prime the oil system. However, I can't find anything is the factory service manual that actually says HOW to prime the oil system.
(I've searched on here as well, and haven't found anything either.)
The best I can guess is I need to install a nipple into the oil pressure sensor port, and force oil into the engine until it hopefully appears on the lifters. I've seen suggestions (for other engines) on everything from hand-pumps, to pressurized tanks.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to best do this for the 3.8L?
Thanks!
#2
Not to deviate from your original question too much, but if you're able to wait just a little longer, Cummins is coming out with a 2.8L turbo diesel crate engine this year that is supposed to be VERY affordable and designed to be a direct swap. Just thought I'd put that bug in your ear, if you had not already seen that.
In regards to your original question, I'm not certain with the 3.8L V6. I'm sure someone will chime in shortly with an answer. If all else fails, contact a vendor that sells replacement/crate engines (OEM) and they should be able to tell you. If you can't locate one, post back up and I'll help you source one.
In regards to your original question, I'm not certain with the 3.8L V6. I'm sure someone will chime in shortly with an answer. If all else fails, contact a vendor that sells replacement/crate engines (OEM) and they should be able to tell you. If you can't locate one, post back up and I'll help you source one.
#3
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Not to deviate from your original question too much, but if you're able to wait just a little longer, Cummins is coming out with a 2.8L turbo diesel crate engine this year that is supposed to be VERY affordable and designed to be a direct swap. Just thought I'd put that bug in your ear, if you had not already seen that.
In regards to your original question, I'm not certain with the 3.8L V6. I'm sure someone will chime in shortly with an answer. If all else fails, contact a vendor that sells replacement/crate engines (OEM) and they should be able to tell you. If you can't locate one, post back up and I'll help you source one.
I'm a fairly competent shade tree mechanic, but I'm used to distributor style oil pumps that are easy to prime.
I've found things like: Pre-Lube Tank
But that seems awefully expensive. If there is a realiable cheaper way to do this 'right', that is what I'm looking for.
As I mentioned before, a nipple into the oil pressure hole, and a hand pump is the best alternative I've seen, but I don't know if that is going to work for the 3.8L or not.
Thanks!
#5
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
$2,478.79 + core $410.00 + shipping $127.99
(I do not plan to return my current core.)
The one I got is a 2010 block, and 2007 heads...
#6
JK Enthusiast
The way I primed my older engines prior to starting does not apply to the distributorless ignitions. I would suggest pulling the fuel pump relay, make sure you fill the oil filter with oil prior to installing, make sure the oil level is normal on the dipstick and crank over the engine several times; verify the engine has oil pressure by removing the oil pressure sending unit and connecting a separate oil pressure gauge.
#7
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
The way I primed my older engines prior to starting does not apply to the distributorless ignitions. I would suggest pulling the fuel pump relay, make sure you fill the oil filter with oil prior to installing, make sure the oil level is normal on the dipstick and crank over the engine several times; verify the engine has oil pressure by removing the oil pressure sending unit and connecting a separate oil pressure gauge.
What I will probably do (unless anyone comes up with a better idea) is use the hand-pump to fill the cavities with as much oil as I can.. then pull the fuel pump as you suggested and spin the engine over to build up pressure before I start it.
Thanks!
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#8
JK Super Freak
The way I primed my older engines prior to starting does not apply to the distributorless ignitions. I would suggest pulling the fuel pump relay, make sure you fill the oil filter with oil prior to installing, make sure the oil level is normal on the dipstick and crank over the engine several times; verify the engine has oil pressure by removing the oil pressure sending unit and connecting a separate oil pressure gauge.
#9
JK Super Freak
That was my original thought. However the warranty sheet that came with the new block specifically says NOT to do that. What I will probably do (unless anyone comes up with a better idea) is use the hand-pump to fill the cavities with as much oil as I can.. then pull the fuel pump as you suggested and spin the engine over to build up pressure before I start it. Thanks!
#10
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
How long ago was it built? If they pre-lubed during build you should have a film on all bearings, valve train, and the cylinder walls so spinning it up to deliver oil through the block shouldn't be an issue, but I didn't build it and it isn't my warranty you have to deal with.