Small evap leak = new tank?
#1
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Small evap leak = new tank?
2011 JK. So I had the "small evap leak" error code for a while, and worked the possible problems I saw on this forum, like addressing the chafing of the vacuum line near the battery, and replacing the filler cap. Neither of these fixed it, then it got worse, like I could hear a weird loud hissing noise once in a while like the thing was trying to do its purge thing and having troubles.
So, long story short, I gave up and took it to the dealer since I had an outstanding safety recall anyway (heated mirror). They ran it down to some sort of fitting/nipple on the tank. I thought this was an option too, since I saw that mentioned on the forums. Thing is, in my head this was going to be on a sending unit or something that could be replaced, but apparently it's integral to the tank? They want $1400 to replace the tank!
What do you guys suggest? I've replaced tanks on other vehicles of mine, is this especially difficult compared to my pickups or Blazer? Not sure I want to spend big bucks on a tank if it's just going to crack again anyway. What other options?
So, long story short, I gave up and took it to the dealer since I had an outstanding safety recall anyway (heated mirror). They ran it down to some sort of fitting/nipple on the tank. I thought this was an option too, since I saw that mentioned on the forums. Thing is, in my head this was going to be on a sending unit or something that could be replaced, but apparently it's integral to the tank? They want $1400 to replace the tank!
What do you guys suggest? I've replaced tanks on other vehicles of mine, is this especially difficult compared to my pickups or Blazer? Not sure I want to spend big bucks on a tank if it's just going to crack again anyway. What other options?
#2
Super Moderator
Replacing the tank isn't rocket science. Figure up the prices on parts and with the leftover cash you can buy yourself a nice weekend away.
Put a jack under the skid, loosen the bolts, fish a ratchet strap between the tank and skid, drop the skid, lower the tank, perform the work, reverse.
You'll want to be around 'low fuel' because the tanks hide a lot of fuel in the bottom.
Put a jack under the skid, loosen the bolts, fish a ratchet strap between the tank and skid, drop the skid, lower the tank, perform the work, reverse.
You'll want to be around 'low fuel' because the tanks hide a lot of fuel in the bottom.
#3
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Thanks. Yeah, I'm familiar with the general concept, as I've lowered/replaced 3 or 4 tanks in my life.
I should be more clear that I had two questions:
1) Is there anything special about lowering this tanks that I should know or that makes it unusually annoying.
2) Given that Chrysler tank is $650, and all that is wrong is one little cracked nipple for a non-critical system, are there other options? Ones I can think of: aftermarket tank that won't crack in 5 more years, or repair to the existing one? Hopefully someone else has been down this path. I do have to pass emissions, so I can't ignore it.
Thanks for the help.
I should be more clear that I had two questions:
1) Is there anything special about lowering this tanks that I should know or that makes it unusually annoying.
2) Given that Chrysler tank is $650, and all that is wrong is one little cracked nipple for a non-critical system, are there other options? Ones I can think of: aftermarket tank that won't crack in 5 more years, or repair to the existing one? Hopefully someone else has been down this path. I do have to pass emissions, so I can't ignore it.
Thanks for the help.
#4
JK Freak
I see this is an older post, but I hope you haven’t done it yet. I’m pretty sure what they are referring to, is the rollover check valve. It’s a common thing to break. I believe the factory zip ties out too much of a bind on it. After time and bristling plastic, it just snaps off. Crawl under your Jeep and check those hard plastic lines running to the top of your gas tank. Mine was broken off as well. It can be fixed for a couple of dollars though. I didn’t remove my tank either. It was easily accessible. I had it completely done in less than an hour. No more evap leak! It only cost me .20 for the plastic dowel, $1 for the 11/64 drill bit, and I already had some pvc plastic cement. Here’s a video on how to repair it.
https://youtu.be/8q7MSKESk_A
https://youtu.be/8q7MSKESk_A
#5
I see this is an older post, but I hope you haven’t done it yet. I’m pretty sure what they are referring to, is the rollover check valve. It’s a common thing to break. I believe the factory zip ties out too much of a bind on it. After time and bristling plastic, it just snaps off. Crawl under your Jeep and check those hard plastic lines running to the top of your gas tank. Mine was broken off as well. It can be fixed for a couple of dollars though. I didn’t remove my tank either. It was easily accessible. I had it completely done in less than an hour. No more evap leak! It only cost me .20 for the plastic dowel, $1 for the 11/64 drill bit, and I already had some pvc plastic cement. Here’s a video on how to repair it.
https://youtu.be/8q7MSKESk_A
https://youtu.be/8q7MSKESk_A
#6
Super Moderator
You just run your fuel relatively low, remove the 18mm bolts that hold the tank skid plate up, and lower the skid plate (with tank) with your floor jack. I use ratchet straps across the framerails to control the front end of the skid while using the jack on the rear. It's not terribly technical.
#7
JK Freak
Read my #4 post. If it's the same plastic hard line going to the rollover check valve, it can be fixed without dropping your tank. I fixed mine for less than $2 and maybe 20-30 minutes of time. Check this video out, but know that it can be done without dropping the tank. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8q7M...channel=TKonzl