so I submarined my JK

so I submarined my JK

Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    JK Newbie
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Co Springs, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default so I submarined my JK

    UM
    EVERYWHERE
    AND SHOW ME
    POSTS
    THREADS
    Home
    Models
    Jeep Wrangler Forums
    JK Wrangler Technical Forum
    darien99
    5 hours ago #1
    so I submarined my JK
    On Sat I was doing a water crossing which ended up being a little too deep when I got caught in a rut. Water entered the cab to a level halfway up the speaker grill. I turned off the engine and was able to get winched out, but sat in the water about 5 minutes. Water drained out of the cab, pulled the spark plugs which were dry. There was a little water in the intake though, the air filter was wet, and a smidge in the throttle body. A lot (I'd guess a gallon or two) came back out the tailpipe as things drained out.

    Cranked the engine over and it started, but transmission was stuck in limp mode (P R N D illuminated on dash) and engine light on. Started driving back out of the trail, got a quarter mile before stalling out. Got it started again, soldiered on, died a short bit later. Finally had someone pull me to the trail head (which was harrowing, for sure).

    Popped the hood and there was some milkshake blowby out of the intake. Had to run to town and get some oil, air filter, and oil filter and drained about 2 gallons!! of milkshake out of the engine. Engine seemed to run fine at that point, although there was a (new) engine rattle at startup that lasts about a second. Seems like a small bit of oil came out of the rear main, but no noticeable leaks from that after changing the oil.

    Ran in limp mode the 40 or so miles back to town. Trans temp held pretty steady at 170, engine temp pegged halfway or so on the gauge. The headlights freaked out for the first 10 minutes or so, turning on and off, hazards on and off, wiper occasionally turning itself on. Seemed to be better by the time I got back to town though.

    So here's where I'm at. I know I need to change the trans fluid, differential oil, and engine oil again. I'm also planning on pulling all the interior electrical connectors and spraying them with wd40 / dialectric grease to hopefully solve some of these electrical gremlins. My major concern at this point is the transmission which will not come out of limp mode, despite resetting the battery a number of times. I know these are electronically controlled, and there can be a number of things that can stick it into limp mode, so where should I start? I'd guess with the transmission computer which I understand is under hood attached to the wiper fluid res?

    Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. I am sure that this will eventually have to go to the dealer but I'd like to keep the costs as low as I can by doing what I can first.

  2. #2
    JK Super Freak resharp001's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Willow Park, TX
    Posts
    1,252

    Default

    My. Biggest. Fear.

    Sorry to hear that....hurt just reading it. Subscribed to see the suggestions and outcome.

  3. #3
    JK Jedi Master Mark Doiron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Midwest City, OK
    Posts
    13,703

    Default

    Sorry to hear about this, Darien. I don't have a specific suggestion about your auto trans (I'm a lifetime manual driver), but you haven't mentioned the TIPM, yet. Control for pretty much everything electrical runs through it. Recommend that you pull it, clean up each of its seven connectors, and maybe use a bit of dielectric grease on them. Some folks say don't use the grease on the actual contacts because it is an insulator, which is true. However, if that grease causes electrical problems, then you didn't have a good mechanical connection for the contacts, so it needed repair anyway. Also, WD-40 is a conductor. Recommend you use an electrical contact cleaner instead. Also, check each of the fuses and relays in the TIPM, and if water entered there, pull all of them and clean it up. The TIPM lid does have a seal, but there are a couple other paths for water to flow up there.

  4. #4
    JK Newbie
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Co Springs, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Doiron View Post
    Sorry to hear about this, Darien. I don't have a specific suggestion about your auto trans (I'm a lifetime manual driver), but you haven't mentioned the TIPM, yet. Control for pretty much everything electrical runs through it. Recommend that you pull it, clean up each of its seven connectors, and maybe use a bit of dielectric grease on them. Some folks say don't use the grease on the actual contacts because it is an insulator, which is true. However, if that grease causes electrical problems, then you didn't have a good mechanical connection for the contacts, so it needed repair anyway. Also, WD-40 is a conductor. Recommend you use an electrical contact cleaner instead. Also, check each of the fuses and relays in the TIPM, and if water entered there, pull all of them and clean it up. The TIPM lid does have a seal, but there are a couple other paths for water to flow up there.
    Thanks for the advice, Mark. I have a feeling that the TIPM is a lot of the issue, given the electrical problems I had driving it home. There's almost a certainty that some water made its way inside. I plan on pulling it out and giving it a shot with a can of compressed air (I don't have a compressor at my apartment) to blow out what I can for moisture. Is electrical contact cleaner ok to just spray into the fuse recesses?

    I also need to pull the dash and air the connectors for the HVAC, ect. Will use the contact cleaner on those as well if that's your recommendation.

  5. #5
    JK Jedi Master Mark Doiron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Midwest City, OK
    Posts
    13,703

    Default

    Electrical contact cleaner should be fine. Read the warnings on the can, in case there's some word about plastics or such. But, it should evaporate almost immediately, so retained moisture shouldn't be an issue.

  6. #6
    JK Newbie
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Co Springs, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default

    So I started working on it today. Pulled apart all the electronics I could get to inside the cab that I know were underwater, from the consul up to the HVAC controls. The console was a bitch to get out. Sprayed the connectors with electrical cleaner and followed with blowing it out with compressed air.

    Removed the TIPM, sprayed the connectors and disassembled. Tore it down and spread between the sandwich boards, sprayed the fuses as well. I've got it all back together now, just have to put it back in the Jeep. I did notice that the speed fuses are discolored, I think I'm just going to replace those. Tomorrow reassemble, change fluids, pull codes and see what happens.

  7. #7
    JK Newbie
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Co Springs, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default




  8. #8
    JK Newbie
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Co Springs, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Update -


    Got the cleaned TIPM back in and reinstalled all the electrical. Fluids changed - engine oil looked fine but only had about 100 miles on it and I know it was low. Front diff was pretty nasty, but not much weeped out of the fill hole so it couldn't have been too much water in there. Rear diff looked pretty great, which is weird because the Jeep was submerged above the tail lights. A decent amount of gunk on the magnetic plugs though.


    Checked codes with Autel scanner, only U0103 (U0103 Lost Communication with Gear Shift Control (GSC) Module) comes up, no engine codes. Tried to clear with scanner but won't clear, trans still in limp mode with PRND illuminated, engine light on, and "vehicle not in park" message.


    At this point there's not too much more I can do with hand tools in my apartment complex driveway, so I think it'll have to go off to the dealer for a trans flush (fluid looks good and about the right level, but better safe than sorry) and for diagnosis. I imagine the shift module needs to be flashed if it's replaced.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •