Squeaking Brakes
Last night I took it to the dealership for an oil change and had them pop off the wheel and take a look... This is what they found: (look VERY closely)
(Its a video, click on the picture to be re-routed where you can watch it)

Yeah..thats a bent axle. And I know exactly how I got it
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...my-Lunch-Break
If you look at the pictures, you can see that my back wheel is sitting up on a curb. I was tboned and spun around 180 degrees and my driver side rear wheel/tire jumped up the curb (chipping the wheel and destroying the tire). I know during the course of this accident the shock of the collision and probably the weight of the vehicle as it pivoted around on my rear PASSENGER tire (and then of course the reverb as the drivers side jumped the curb) is exactly when the tweak in the axel happened.
My Jeep was taken to a nearby Jeep Dealership where they did the body work on the vehicle. I told them time and time and time again the details of the accident and that my vehicle took a hit to the frame AND the axle. I asked the time and time and time again if they had checked the axle and if it was ok (halfway to remind them to check it as it may not have seemed like a priority to them)
Either way. Now I have to go back to them, tell them they need to fix this as they are supposed to stand by their work. Which I have a feeling they are going to fight tooth and nail about, especially since the claim has already been closed with the other person's insurance. Guess they should have really checked when they had the chance...now it looks like they are going to have to eat the cost to replace that part of the axle.
Is the flange bent? It appears so from the video.
I've got the same sort of squeak-squeak-squeak from the right rear. Does yours go away on brakes? I've dropped down from some tall ledges and boulders on the trail; it's certainly within the realm of possibility I've got a tweaked flange as well.
I spent most of my mod money this season on a new t-case and front axle muscle; I'm going to get around to replacing my rear axle shafts with some good chromo units from Northridge, however.
I've got the same sort of squeak-squeak-squeak from the right rear. Does yours go away on brakes? I've dropped down from some tall ledges and boulders on the trail; it's certainly within the realm of possibility I've got a tweaked flange as well.
I spent most of my mod money this season on a new t-case and front axle muscle; I'm going to get around to replacing my rear axle shafts with some good chromo units from Northridge, however.
Is the flange bent? It appears so from the video.
I've got the same sort of squeak-squeak-squeak from the right rear. Does yours go away on brakes? I've dropped down from some tall ledges and boulders on the trail; it's certainly within the realm of possibility I've got a tweaked flange as well.
I spent most of my mod money this season on a new t-case and front axle muscle; I'm going to get around to replacing my rear axle shafts with some good chromo units from Northridge, however.
I've got the same sort of squeak-squeak-squeak from the right rear. Does yours go away on brakes? I've dropped down from some tall ledges and boulders on the trail; it's certainly within the realm of possibility I've got a tweaked flange as well.
I spent most of my mod money this season on a new t-case and front axle muscle; I'm going to get around to replacing my rear axle shafts with some good chromo units from Northridge, however.
Oh.. see now mine isn't constant (but it's regular) and it goes away the instant you give the brake even the slightest pressure with your foot.
My e-brake on that side was full of rust once, it could be that I simply have a squeaky e-brake shoe or finicky caliper.
I'll pull the wheel and rotor and check runout on my flange with a dial indicator.
Thanks, informative thread.
My e-brake on that side was full of rust once, it could be that I simply have a squeaky e-brake shoe or finicky caliper.
I'll pull the wheel and rotor and check runout on my flange with a dial indicator.
Thanks, informative thread.
I have the same problem only the repetitive squeak is now sounding even when I don't press the brakes. 
Not quite sure how I would have even bent the axel as I'm pretty much stock and haven't done any heavy wheeling.
Will driving with a bent axel screw much up? What are the side effects? I'd appreciate the input as my warranty is up.

Not quite sure how I would have even bent the axel as I'm pretty much stock and haven't done any heavy wheeling.
Will driving with a bent axel screw much up? What are the side effects? I'd appreciate the input as my warranty is up.
I have the same problem only the repetitive squeak is now sounding even when I don't press the brakes. 
Not quite sure how I would have even bent the axel as I'm pretty much stock and haven't done any heavy wheeling.
Will driving with a bent axel screw much up? What are the side effects? I'd appreciate the input as my warranty is up.

Not quite sure how I would have even bent the axel as I'm pretty much stock and haven't done any heavy wheeling.
Will driving with a bent axel screw much up? What are the side effects? I'd appreciate the input as my warranty is up.
Off a bit. If you're still worried about a bent axel it's easy to check for jack the jeep up and spin the wheel if she is spinning straight you're good if you notice some wobble you have a problem.
The squeals and squeaks can come from different sources.
If you have never serviced brakes or been trained to do them like I have I can offer my free opinion here if you want it. These are the basic couple of sources before you get to bent axles and seized pistons in the caliper.
Start with this:
1. Metal to metal causes squeaking if it vibrates against each other.
Such as: The back of the brake pad is a metal plate. If the pad vibrates against the piston, when the piston pushes against the pad it will squeak.
Soultion:
a) Remove the pad and make sure the metal clip is not damaged that attaches to the pad and pushes and grip insides the piston.
b) Spray the back of the pad (the metal plate side) with the anti squeak spray or squeeze a dose of anti squeak from a tube of your favorite company.
c) Don't spray the antisqueak or squeeze the anti squeak from a tube onto the pad. It's meant to make the metal plate side stop sliding and vibrating against the piston.
Another basic thing to understand is this: "Like a needle to a record".
The surface of the circular rotor is like a record. The pad is like a needle. As you apply the pressure the pad begins to apply friction against the surface of the rotor which is like a record. Hope that analogy is simple enough.
Solution:
1. You can buy from NAPA or an auto parts store a small container of a very thin liquid call "Stop squeak". You squirt it on the pad side of the brake pad and it treats the pad lining. NOT the metal plate side.
2. Look at the rotor, you will see that the pad has mated with the rotor and created a very smooth flat surface. You can take a 3M scuff pad and put it on a die grinder and lightly scuff the surface of the rotor on both sides.
3. Or you can have the rotor turned at a machine shop or auto shop for you and put it back on.
4. If you see circular grooves around the rotor surface, you need to replace the rotors; or have it measured to see if they are still thick enough that you can have them turned and put it back on. I recommend putting new brake pads back on with this, on each side of the vehicle.
5. Or you can replace your rotors with after market rotors which have a series of predrilled holes throughout the rotor surface or the grooved relief cuts, scored or machined across the rotor surface in a design pattern. I recommend new pads with the rotors and not your old pads.
If it still continues to squeak then you have a more serious problem and it could be like the others. A bent axle or rusted surfaces on the brake caliper piston.
Any of you guys can PM if you want to discuss some of the more serious stuff and how to repair it. Or the simple stuff above if you don't understand what I'm saying.
If you have never serviced brakes or been trained to do them like I have I can offer my free opinion here if you want it. These are the basic couple of sources before you get to bent axles and seized pistons in the caliper.
Start with this:
1. Metal to metal causes squeaking if it vibrates against each other.
Such as: The back of the brake pad is a metal plate. If the pad vibrates against the piston, when the piston pushes against the pad it will squeak.
Soultion:
a) Remove the pad and make sure the metal clip is not damaged that attaches to the pad and pushes and grip insides the piston.
b) Spray the back of the pad (the metal plate side) with the anti squeak spray or squeeze a dose of anti squeak from a tube of your favorite company.
c) Don't spray the antisqueak or squeeze the anti squeak from a tube onto the pad. It's meant to make the metal plate side stop sliding and vibrating against the piston.
Another basic thing to understand is this: "Like a needle to a record".
The surface of the circular rotor is like a record. The pad is like a needle. As you apply the pressure the pad begins to apply friction against the surface of the rotor which is like a record. Hope that analogy is simple enough.
Solution:
1. You can buy from NAPA or an auto parts store a small container of a very thin liquid call "Stop squeak". You squirt it on the pad side of the brake pad and it treats the pad lining. NOT the metal plate side.
2. Look at the rotor, you will see that the pad has mated with the rotor and created a very smooth flat surface. You can take a 3M scuff pad and put it on a die grinder and lightly scuff the surface of the rotor on both sides.
3. Or you can have the rotor turned at a machine shop or auto shop for you and put it back on.
4. If you see circular grooves around the rotor surface, you need to replace the rotors; or have it measured to see if they are still thick enough that you can have them turned and put it back on. I recommend putting new brake pads back on with this, on each side of the vehicle.
5. Or you can replace your rotors with after market rotors which have a series of predrilled holes throughout the rotor surface or the grooved relief cuts, scored or machined across the rotor surface in a design pattern. I recommend new pads with the rotors and not your old pads.
If it still continues to squeak then you have a more serious problem and it could be like the others. A bent axle or rusted surfaces on the brake caliper piston.
Any of you guys can PM if you want to discuss some of the more serious stuff and how to repair it. Or the simple stuff above if you don't understand what I'm saying.
I have the same issue, took it to the dealership and their "brake guy" said I needed some grease on the caliper or something to that extent. Worked great after that....no squeaking, for about 3 days. Then...squeak...squeak...squeak!!! FML!
my rear passenger brake was going squeak, squeak, squeak, squeak, squeak all the time. i could hear it when i had my top down. i thought it was break pads or something but it wasn't.
when i took off the rear tire and spun the rotor by hand a could see the caliper moving back and forth on the pins. it almost looked like my rotor was warped. but ti wasn't. the rear axles were bent. i changed the axles and the squeak went away.
if this is your problem and you don't want to change the axles you can slide back the rubber boots on the caliper and lightly grease the pins. it will stop the squeak for awhile. good luck
when i took off the rear tire and spun the rotor by hand a could see the caliper moving back and forth on the pins. it almost looked like my rotor was warped. but ti wasn't. the rear axles were bent. i changed the axles and the squeak went away.
if this is your problem and you don't want to change the axles you can slide back the rubber boots on the caliper and lightly grease the pins. it will stop the squeak for awhile. good luck
same with me... rear axle bent... replaced with ten factory chromoly and all better.
dealership wouldnt replace under warranty. i bent it during some mudding so i didnt fight it. my dealership and I have a pretty decent relationship with respect going both ways.


