I just got an alignment which showed my caster at 3.2 drivers side and 3.5 passenger. While this showed green on the alignment machine( hunter laser) it was on the low end for my 2013 sahara.

I'm at stock height and in the process of changing out worn steering components. I've done tie rod, drag link, and ball joints. And while the steering has definitely tightened up. I'm still feeling flightless over 60, less than before but still noticeable.

I've noticed my shocks could use replacing. When i jounce the bumper it bounces more than a few times.

My questions are....would changing shocks affect caster in any way? And, if not, would the low caster I have really make that much h difference at those speeds? And if it does would buying fixed longer lower control arms (I'd rather not do adjustable), to add caster be a waste of money?

 

adding caster is not a waste of time. Shocks will not affect caster angle. IMO it is well worth the money for adjustable control arms. I believe you will find here, that the lower arms are for centering the axle and the uppers are for controlling caster. So, buying upper adjustable control arms would benefit your caster angle. Your current caster is as you mention below what we would normally see on this forum. I would try for a min. of 4 degrees more like 4.5 degrees. My 2013 JKU has 6.5 degrees dialed in.

 

Things don't seem to be adding up to me. Caster on a stock vehicle should be closer to 4.2°. Caster in that 3.2° range is much more like what you'd see with a 2.5" lift.

There is almost zero sense buying longer fixed length arms that will set your caster at 1 specific setting. If you're going to spend the money why not buy adjustable so you can dial caster in perfectly? What is the resistance to doing that? They can't cost that much more.

Small changes in caster do make big differences in steering. I'd say get that caster up over 4° where it should be before worrying about further troubleshooting. Shocks aren't going to make a difference in caster as mentioned above.

 

They're not adding up for you! How do you think I feel!! I've been trying to figure this out for months! Haha...I bought it used and everything was stock as far as I could see. It had 64k miles on it, so I'm not sure if it was molded in any way. But as far I can tell it's stock height. Stock shocks which I replaced immediately because they were worn. I've done multiple alignments and caster is always in the 3's?

As far as adjustable vs fixed. To be honest with you having the option to adjust isn't my preference if at all possible. If I could get away with adding a degree or a degree and a half maybe that gets me in the high 4's by adding a fixed lca. I'll be happy. Set it and forget it. I dont plan on putting a lift on it I should've been clearer in my original post.

 

Can you add some pictures here of springs, control arms, etc?? Are there cam bolts in the lower control arm axle mounts by chance? There has to be some explanation.

The thing about adjustable is you set em and then tighten the jam nut. It's barely any additional effort than installing new fixed-length arms but you get 100% adjustability should anything change on the jeep in the future. It's certainly not like you're changing the lengths every oil change or anything, but you have the option to really dial caster in if it needs to be tweaked. If fixed-length arms were half the price then I could see leaning that direction for a simple case (I've not shopped these around....no clue what new fixed length arms are running). Just my opinion.

If that jeep really is factory height, I'd agree with XJRefugee above and that adjustable upper arms would be better for you. A lot of times you see people get buy with just front lowers for a small adjustment, but that is really on lifted jeeps where they can stand to reposition the axle and extend the wheelbase a touch again (lifting pulls both front and rear axles in and shortens the wheelbase a bit). In your case that axle is really where it should be and you just need to rotate the pinion down a touch.

 

you will wind up spending money for longer fixed LCA anyway ... why not consider what Resharp001 has been saying, takes care of the current problem and has adjustability for the future. JKS makes a 3/8" longer fixed lower control arm but I still agree with Resharp001 that it makes zero sense to spend money on fixed LCA.

 

I'll post some pics when I get home.

 

So just came back from a 2 hour drive. It's more than just flightiness. I'm feeling a pull to the left and excessive swaying. The pull is more noticeable when accelerating at highway speeds. Can go 60 to 65 ok. Still pulls a little. Above that feels a little unpredictable. It's not the crown it did it in the farthest left lane too. The alignment is done tires were balanced yesterday and rotated. Could it be the Sway bar? Control arms?

I agree with both of you about the adjustable control arms trust me I understand. I just know how I am... I'd want to tweak it to death and screw something up!!!

So you're saying adjusting the uppers is better for just adjusting caster and not changing the stock axle position? So it woukdnt affect the stock geometry.

 

Well, certainly don't see any smoking gun there that would explain why you have low caster. Kinda confusing . Neither here nor there as you still need to get that a bit higher, I was just curious how it could be that low.

I'd typically stick with what I said above, but after seeing the pictures I think I'd maybe lean to the lower arms and for this reason. You got a little bit of a rust situation. Even if it's not too bad, the upper arms are just that tiny bit more of a hassle to get at. There are 2 small bolts holding on heat shields around the frame side mounts and, at least on mine, those bolts are kinda a pain to deal with and I'm not even in the rust belt. It's likely those have never been removed on that jeep and in 9 years they might be a little stubborn. The lower arms are easier to access. Your axle is currently positioned properly but I guess in the real world it's not going to be a big deal. You're likely pushing that axle about 1/4" further forward to rotate the pinion down and it's not going to be a big deal. I'd maybe just go the easier route. I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

Those look like maybe ProComp shocks on it. If that is the case you are probably on the right track to freshen those up a bit regardless of if they are contributing to issues or not. I had some of those back when the jeep was new and man they didn't last long. Those could be contributing to some body roll if they are shot. I'm thinking along the lines of body sway and not steering sway since you're questioning the sway bar and/or links.

 

The shocks are Ranchos. I put them on a couple of years ago. I was going to check them by unbolting the bottoms. But a visual inspection shows the bushings are cracking.

And yes you're right its excessive roll and a bit of a side to side. Everything seems to be worse when I'm going left. It feels like I have to fight it going through a left curve on the highway.

I was hoping to be able to do lowers for the very reasons you pointed out. Their easier. But iid rather not create any additional issues. I was looking at the uppers and one heat shield is missing. So maybe they've been removed at some point? But still would rather do the lowers

The plan is to do lowers...and yes I'll do the adjustables if I need to. How much longer do you think I'd need the lowers to be to get 1 degree of caster? Because if it's 3/8th I'd rather just get the JKS fixed at 3/8ths and call it a day. But if I need to tweak I'll get the adjustable.

Thanks for your help