EHarris

Ok so replaced the front bumpstops also today but the the Jeep pulls right when I'm driving.

Used two jacks. sway bar disconnected, removed lower front shock bolts. Remove brake line bracket bolts. Remove drivers side track bar bolt. Loosened lower control arm bolts. Removed skid plate.

Dropped the axel low with both jacks and jack stands under frame ,Pulled the springs, pulled the crap bump stops. Insert new stops. Jack axel up until bump stops press fit in. Lower down, put in springs, jack back up, put in shocks, drivers side track arm bolt and then tires.

All control arm bolts are lose now along with drivers side track bar, tires are on and vehicle is on the ground. Upper track bar bolts torqued to spec, lowers done then track bar then tires.

The only variable I can think of is that the steering stabilizer needs to be reset and could have slipped down the tie rod since I have synergy tie rod and stabilizer adapter collar. I can just pull the stabilizer and take it for a drive and see if it still pulls.

I didn't touch the drag link or tie rod but I did notice the wheels slightly turned to the right when I was putting everything back together.

Maybe I need to get an alignment now?

EHarris

The steering wheel looks like it might be slightly tilted to the right also.

Mr.T

The trackbar hardly ever goes back exactly the same, so having to center the steering wheel is to be expected to compensate for any side-to-side change in position of the axle. The stab won't affect centering.

Regarding the slight pulling to one side, it might be from the clearance in the bolt holes allowing both pairs of control arms to hold the axle slightly crooked. What I've done is to loosen all the bolts for the arms and rotate the whole axle housing down at the pinion (to take up the bolt clearances in one direction for max caster) with cinch-straps (or whatever works), then tighten the bolts. Maybe that will work on yours...

karls10jk

Agree on the no SS, I don't run one and haven't for a while since going to upgraded steering. I have the parts to do this but it's nice to see what I might run into. I''ll also be adding a rear track bar and recentering my steering while I'm in there.

EHarris

Ok I pulled the steering stabilizer and it still pulls to the right. I'm going to try and re center the steering wheel first.

This also brings up another question.

I have synergy tie rod/drag link combo. In order for the steering stabilizer to connect to the tie rod I need a collar adapter. I also have the flip kit bracket that goes through the other side of the track bar.

My question is torque specs. The upper bracket side of my SS cannot accept the metal bushings that come with the teraflex for two reasons. #1 because the busing is too tall to fit in the bracket and #2 the bolt diameter is bigger.

If not using the sleeve is that ok and what would my torque specs be? How about torque specs of the one bolt into the collar?

How do you know where to position the collar on the tie rod also? I'm always worried that it isn't facing perfectly upwards and it may have shifted when I dropped the axel. Just jack up the front end and turn the wheel from side to side? Just make sure it has full range of motion both ways?

karls10jk

Positioning the collar is easy- cut full passenger and then move the collar over 1/4" towards the driver's side. Cut driver and ensure you've got full range of motion there. You can center it but if you're full lock and there's still 1/4" of play then you're safe.

As to the rest of it....can't help there. I ran the flipped mount like you've got and smashed the end of the factory stabilizer (not enough bumpstop) so after doing that twice, I ditched the stabilizer.

Mr.T

Probably best to call TF about the bolt, bushing, and bracket issue -- strange.

Stabs have to have clearance throughout suspension travel as well as full left-right travel. Easy to say, but hard to do and actually verify unless it's an OEM style stab in the stock position (which is the way mine is). This isn't much help, but it's easy to have a stab that looks positioned OK but actually hits when the suspension and steering move to the extremes (including bump-stop compression).

resharp001

I've ran Teraflex VSS9550 for quite a while in the past with no sleeve run through that bushing due to the required bolt being too large a diameter. It's not that big of a deal IMO. That SS isn't doing a yeomen's load of work or anything, it's just the last little complimentary piece of the puzzle. The bolt won't tear up the inside of the bushing or anything, and you don't need to be concerned about some specific torque value when tightening the bolts down. I'd use a big waster so the head of the bolt has something to compress down on the bushing a bit with. Get things tight, but no need to squish the bushing like a gorilla. Like Karl, I don't even run a SS these days after my last one leaked oil. I've just been waiting till I go hydro assist which should be next couple weeks.....but I've probably been well over a year without anything there.

EHarris

Ok I just won't smash the bushing of the SS but it seems to be normal. I have washers on them already so that definitely helps.

Here are the alignment numbers. I figured after all of this work and it's been a few years I would just get an alignment before a big trip anyway.

The steering wheel looked positioned off center to the right and the vehicle pulled right. After the alignment the steering wheel feels slightly to the left but the JK drives straight. I may have to take it back and see if they can get it perfect. It would be somewhat annoying to drive it like this.

Here are my alignment specs. I'll go back tomorrow and have it fixed. Any feedback on the numbers would be appreciated.

resharp001

Your caster is really low. I thought you had some form of correction on there. You would be amazed at the difference some control arm brackets or other form of correction would make if you got that number back up above 4*. USUALLY, an alignment shop can nail that steering wheel dead center with no issues. If doing it at home it can sometimes take two tries. If you still have the factory drag link it's as simple as loosening two 15mm nuts and twisting the turnbuckle just a bit in the proper direction, then re-tightening the nuts.

There's just not much you can do about camber assuming ball joints aren't bad. We typically just have to live with the camber we have.