EHarris

Well all of this talk the past 6 months and I knew it was coming. The radiator is leaking coolant towards the bottom of the drivers side 142k original. Just got back from a trip and noticed it. Ordered my new mopar stuff from Rock Auto. Just wanted to ask for some advice on this job? Anyone with some words of wisdom? I just did the thermostat and housing about 20k ago so I am thinking about sticking with those for now unless I notice an issue. New upper and lower hoses along with radiator cap and constant pressure hose clamps. It's the entire OEM setup. I was also thinking about getting a UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit since I have the compressor to run it. I think one of the local stores has one for rent. DId anyone also do a coolant temperature sensor at the same time?

Thanks as always

Rednroll

I had to replace mine around 120K. Aside from the radiator, I didn't replace any additional parts. Radiator hoses, hose clamps, and coolant temp sensor, I re-used.

karls10jk

The radiator will come with the cap. I managed to mess up the two plastic "seals" that channel air into the radiator after my first replacement leaked out of the box (cracked neck). I cut off two of the plastic locating tabs during disassembly because the radiator wouldn't move enough with my snorkel air box, you'll probably have enough room with the factory box lifting right out.

Factory coolant, distilled water, such like that. I didn't do any special tools or any of that to purge the air, just run the heat on high and it'll burp itself. I did jack it up under the cap to put that as the highest point.

resharp001

The radiator replacement is pretty straight forward. Yours should be easier without a tranny cooler to finangle around. The lower bolts that hold the a/c cooler in place are the worst to access. Draining from the petc0ck is worthless. Open it, but pull the lower hose to speed things up. In regards to the coolant sensor, I'd just leave that unless it's been giving you a signal it's faulty. I'm not certain if it's in the same spot as on the 3.6L, but I'd presume you have to pull the inner fender liner to get a clear shot at it...and that would just be a pain. If you ever have to replace that in the future, you barely lose any coolant doing the task, so it's not really that big of a deal. I did mine with a full system and think I lost well less than 1 cup coolant pulling the old one and popping a new one in.

EHarris

Excellent info. Thank you. Guess I have an extra cap now which isn't so bad. This job looks pretty difficult but I'll take it slow and there are some good YouTube videos out there.

Rednroll

I watched this 3 part video:

With that said.....you know if I watched some Youtube vids, and I did it myself....then that means I likely created a step-by-step guide, where I check off the steps and make sure I have all the tools I need. So here you go, this is the condensed version of that 3 part video with some tips and list of tools thrown in.

Working on one of these now for by Ball joints and wheel bearing hub job coming up in the near future. Resharp and Karl can't help me out with the dimensions of the adapters I need for that job, but I'll figure that out once the TF ball joints come in. So let me know when you're ready to do those.

Jeep Wrangler JK Radiator Replacement
Mopar P/N: 68143886AA
Tools
- Trim Pry tool
- Sockets 8mm, 10mm
- Electric screwdriver w/10mm socket
- Ratchet w/Socket extension (6in)
- 8mm ratchet wrench
- Vise grips large or channel locks
- Pliers
- Flathead screwdriver

Radiator Replacement Removal

1. Remove front grill (6) Clips with screwdriver
2. Remove top plastic shroud (4) Clips
3. Remove Airbox
a. (8mm band clamp)
b. Air intake sensorc. Remove top cover of air box and filterd. Pull out bottom air box
4. Remove overflow bottle
a. Disconnect hose at radiator side (pliers)
b. Slide overflow bottle upwards to remove
5. Remove Radiator fan
a.Pop out (3) Christmas tree clips underneath
b. Remove electrical connector (squeeze lock, then slide out)
c. Remove (2) top side fan mount bolts (8mm socket)
d. Slide fan upwards to remove.
6. Remove radiator
a. Remove bottom hose and drain coolant (spring loaded clamp vise grips)
b. Remove Top hose
c. Remove (2) top radiator mounting bolts (Electric screwdriver w/ 10mm socket)
d. Lean radiator back to gain access to AC condenser bolts.
e. Pull radiator/AC condenser assembly upwards for further AC Condenser bolt access.
f. Remove (4) AC condenser bolts (8mm socket, 8mm ratchet wrench)
g. Remove(1) 8mm AC line bolt attached to radiator located between (2) AC lines on driver side
h. Remove Fan Harness on passenger side from top of radiator with Pry tool.
i. Remove bottom side shroud Christmas tree clip on passenger side with Pry tool.
j. Remove bottom side shroud Christmas tree clip on driver side with Pry tool.
k. Unclip transmission lines clipped to bottom driver side of radiator.
l. Lift radiator upward unfastening shields in the front of radiator.
m. Pull radiator upwards to remove.

EHarris

Epic! Thanks as always friend. Saving tons of $$$

EHarris

Would anyone happen to know if the correct part number for the Mopar HOAT coolant is now 68048953AB ? Doing the new radiator Saturday and I was able to get 3 gallons for $16 each on rock auto that came with my radiator. Cheaper than autozone at around $20-$24 depending. I have an 08.

Anyone have experience with an AirLift that would like to give me some tips? My girl has a grand cherokee so I purchased the airlift for our radiators and a few friends that needs to get their JKs ready for summer trips.

resharp001

Yes, the HOAT bottle say 5yr/100k miles vs. The OAT that says 10yr/150k miles. Part number you supplied is prediluted though.... Usually what dealers are selling for that $25ish price is not diluted. It's obviously still fine, just not cheap as you originally thought. The listing on autozone looks like it's full strength as well.

Edit.....
Disregard, just pulled the rock autosight on my phone. That product listing was full strength too.

EHarris

Perfect. Correction on my part. I don't get the coolant at auto zone but rather O'reilly's