Clayton Off Road 05 TJ 5.5" Long Arm install
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Clayton Off Road 05 TJ 5.5" Long Arm install
We are starting on this build this week, it's a nice clean TJ with only 48k on it. It's getting our 5.5" Long Arm Suspension Lift Kit, Bilstein shocks, SYE kit and a Tom Woods drive shaft. We will be using the factory transfercase skid plate for now. Here are a few pictures as we progress through the install of our parts:
Tom Woods/ AA SYE kit:
We use these brackets to determine where we need to weld our new control arm brackets:
Getting the frame all cleared out:
Using the location plates:
Getting the new control arm brackets in place:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
Tom Woods/ AA SYE kit:
We use these brackets to determine where we need to weld our new control arm brackets:
Getting the frame all cleared out:
Using the location plates:
Getting the new control arm brackets in place:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
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New control arm brackets tacked into place:
Fully welded:
Cutting off some of the old control arm brackets with the plasma:
Cut through the welds along the top edge with a cutoff wheel:
Use a hammer to take the pieces off:
Then clean it up a little and the rear control arm brackets are totally off:
Add some paint to prevent the East Coast death rust:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
Fully welded:
Cutting off some of the old control arm brackets with the plasma:
Cut through the welds along the top edge with a cutoff wheel:
Use a hammer to take the pieces off:
Then clean it up a little and the rear control arm brackets are totally off:
Add some paint to prevent the East Coast death rust:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
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Starting to work on the rear axle bracketry:
Getting it ready for the truss:
Tacked in:
Fully welded in place:
Axle painted, and lower arms bolted in:
Nothing the factory skid plate:
Tight fit next to the LCA brackets:
Getting ready set the pinion angle, 2 degrees down:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
Getting it ready for the truss:
Tacked in:
Fully welded in place:
Axle painted, and lower arms bolted in:
Nothing the factory skid plate:
Tight fit next to the LCA brackets:
Getting ready set the pinion angle, 2 degrees down:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
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To set the pinion angle, we use a bottle jack to make sure we get the pinion exactly where we want it:
Centering the rear axle over the body, we use ratchet straps and pull the body where we want it:
Once the pinion angle and track are set we put the upper arms in. Adjust the upper arms to the exact length so the bolts go in easily:
Rear arms in:
Starting on the front end:
Cleaning up the old trackbar mount and adding our bracket to make it a double shear bracket:
New double shear track bar mount up front:
Trackbar bracket ready for paint:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
Centering the rear axle over the body, we use ratchet straps and pull the body where we want it:
Once the pinion angle and track are set we put the upper arms in. Adjust the upper arms to the exact length so the bolts go in easily:
Rear arms in:
Starting on the front end:
Cleaning up the old trackbar mount and adding our bracket to make it a double shear bracket:
New double shear track bar mount up front:
Trackbar bracket ready for paint:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
#5
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New front end parts (JKS disconnects, new pitman arm, trackbar and bracket, springs, and control arms) installed:
Clayton Off Road springs and Bilstein shocks installed:
Front radius arms, springs, and shocks installed:
Front and rear suspension complete:
Starting on the exhaust. Cut flange off the cat about a half inch in front of the necked down portion:
Grind off the weld off and knock old pipe out of the flange:
Clean up the ID of the flange:
Cut flange off the muffler right at the end of the muffler pipe:
Clean up the ID of the flange so it goes over the new muffler with a little play:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off RoadNew front end parts (JKS disconnects, new pitman arm, trackbar and bracket, springs, and control arms) installed:
Clayton Off Road springs and Bilstein shocks installed:
Front radius arms, springs, and shocks installed:
Front and rear suspension complete:
Starting on the exhaust. Cut flange off the cat about a half inch in front of the necked down portion:
Grind off the weld off and knock old pipe out of the flange:
Clean up the ID of the flange:
Cut flange off the muffler right at the end of the muffler pipe:
Clean up the ID of the flange so it goes over the new muffler with a little play:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
Clayton Off Road springs and Bilstein shocks installed:
Front radius arms, springs, and shocks installed:
Front and rear suspension complete:
Starting on the exhaust. Cut flange off the cat about a half inch in front of the necked down portion:
Grind off the weld off and knock old pipe out of the flange:
Clean up the ID of the flange:
Cut flange off the muffler right at the end of the muffler pipe:
Clean up the ID of the flange so it goes over the new muffler with a little play:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off RoadNew front end parts (JKS disconnects, new pitman arm, trackbar and bracket, springs, and control arms) installed:
Clayton Off Road springs and Bilstein shocks installed:
Front radius arms, springs, and shocks installed:
Front and rear suspension complete:
Starting on the exhaust. Cut flange off the cat about a half inch in front of the necked down portion:
Grind off the weld off and knock old pipe out of the flange:
Clean up the ID of the flange:
Cut flange off the muffler right at the end of the muffler pipe:
Clean up the ID of the flange so it goes over the new muffler with a little play:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
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Weld bolt into the flange on the cat facing the muffler:
Cut about an inch off the inlet to the muffler:
Put the flange on to the cat. it's a tight fit so you may need to use a hammer. Try and angle it towards the center of the Jeep. Then install the muffler:
Make sure the muffler is centered between the upper control arm and the transfer case. I like to use a level to get it level with the frame rail:
Tack weld both flanges in place when the muffler is located where you want it:
Unbolt the muffler and weld around the inside of the cat flange:
Outside as well:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
Cut about an inch off the inlet to the muffler:
Put the flange on to the cat. it's a tight fit so you may need to use a hammer. Try and angle it towards the center of the Jeep. Then install the muffler:
Make sure the muffler is centered between the upper control arm and the transfer case. I like to use a level to get it level with the frame rail:
Tack weld both flanges in place when the muffler is located where you want it:
Unbolt the muffler and weld around the inside of the cat flange:
Outside as well:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
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Once it is welded up you can bolt it back on:
AA SYE and Tom Woods shaft are installed along with the new muffler:
Cut the tip of tail pipe off the old exhaust where it is a full diameter after the bend. Clean up the end and it needs to be hammered a little to get it round:
Slide the tail pipe in to the muffle and angle it slightly to the outside of the Jeep. Put a couple tack welds on if you are going to have a custom tail pipe bent up to exit in the stock location:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
AA SYE and Tom Woods shaft are installed along with the new muffler:
Cut the tip of tail pipe off the old exhaust where it is a full diameter after the bend. Clean up the end and it needs to be hammered a little to get it round:
Slide the tail pipe in to the muffle and angle it slightly to the outside of the Jeep. Put a couple tack welds on if you are going to have a custom tail pipe bent up to exit in the stock location:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
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We finished up our part of the build today and got the TJ ready for it's owner:
Next up is this TJ:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
Next up is this TJ:
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road