2007 JK Does not turn off
#1
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2007 JK Does not turn off
2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
When the battery is connected the gauge cluster is on all the time, the radio works as does all accessories (headlights, wipers, power locks, power windows, signal lights etc.) with the key not even in it. If I leave it that way...drains the battery. With the FOB inserted I can start the engine, but when I turn it off and remove the key, everything stays on including the engine. Have to disable the fuel pump via fuse to shut it down. Only thing that does not work right is the ESP shut off switch, hazard light, and the little A/C button. Everything else is ok. Even the light goes on when I open the door. Everything is as if the key is still in the "run" position.
Here is what I've done so far:
1. Replaced the entire ignition (05057296AJ) and even had 2 new FOB keys made/programmed. There was no problem mating the new keys to the WCM and the engine started and did not stop after 2 seconds. WCM is functioning 100% normal.
2. Replaced the ignition switch (4685719AI) and now I have 3 of them. The original that is on the original ignition that I replaced, the one that was on the new replacement ignition, and the new one I just bought.
3. Replaced the TPIM from a doner (my other 2007 Jeep Wrangler) and that did not fix it. Went through the 12 second steps and was able to put it back in the doner just fine. NOTE: the current Jeep I am working on could not go through the 12 second rule because it is on the whole time (hence the REAL problem right now) when I connect the battery. So, I cannot rule out the TPIM 100% since it never shuts off.
4. Yes, already disconnected the sway bar harness
5. Yes, I already disconnected the subwoofer.
6. Horn works and the airbag light is not on. So, I've eliminated the clock spring as the culprit.
7. All fuses and relays were swapped in the TPIM and tested in the other 2007 Jeep I am using as my "working copy". They are all working as they should.
What am I missing? All I really need to figure out is why everything remains on as if the ignition switch is always in the "RUN" position. Is there a relay that I am missing somewhere that is causing the Jeep to be stuck in the "on/run" position? I thought it would be either in the ignition switch (4685719AI) or the TPIM. Is there an ECM/PCM, or other control module issue here? Could it be the instrument cluster?? The positive should not "jump" over the ignition to the run side if the key is not in it. It does not make sense. I did not check the ignition switch to see if it is even coming from the "RUN" there...because I can't believe that I would have 3 that are broken.
HELP!!
And no...please save the comments about taking it to the dealer. They will bleed me for this!
When the battery is connected the gauge cluster is on all the time, the radio works as does all accessories (headlights, wipers, power locks, power windows, signal lights etc.) with the key not even in it. If I leave it that way...drains the battery. With the FOB inserted I can start the engine, but when I turn it off and remove the key, everything stays on including the engine. Have to disable the fuel pump via fuse to shut it down. Only thing that does not work right is the ESP shut off switch, hazard light, and the little A/C button. Everything else is ok. Even the light goes on when I open the door. Everything is as if the key is still in the "run" position.
Here is what I've done so far:
1. Replaced the entire ignition (05057296AJ) and even had 2 new FOB keys made/programmed. There was no problem mating the new keys to the WCM and the engine started and did not stop after 2 seconds. WCM is functioning 100% normal.
2. Replaced the ignition switch (4685719AI) and now I have 3 of them. The original that is on the original ignition that I replaced, the one that was on the new replacement ignition, and the new one I just bought.
3. Replaced the TPIM from a doner (my other 2007 Jeep Wrangler) and that did not fix it. Went through the 12 second steps and was able to put it back in the doner just fine. NOTE: the current Jeep I am working on could not go through the 12 second rule because it is on the whole time (hence the REAL problem right now) when I connect the battery. So, I cannot rule out the TPIM 100% since it never shuts off.
4. Yes, already disconnected the sway bar harness
5. Yes, I already disconnected the subwoofer.
6. Horn works and the airbag light is not on. So, I've eliminated the clock spring as the culprit.
7. All fuses and relays were swapped in the TPIM and tested in the other 2007 Jeep I am using as my "working copy". They are all working as they should.
What am I missing? All I really need to figure out is why everything remains on as if the ignition switch is always in the "RUN" position. Is there a relay that I am missing somewhere that is causing the Jeep to be stuck in the "on/run" position? I thought it would be either in the ignition switch (4685719AI) or the TPIM. Is there an ECM/PCM, or other control module issue here? Could it be the instrument cluster?? The positive should not "jump" over the ignition to the run side if the key is not in it. It does not make sense. I did not check the ignition switch to see if it is even coming from the "RUN" there...because I can't believe that I would have 3 that are broken.
HELP!!
And no...please save the comments about taking it to the dealer. They will bleed me for this!
#4
Super Moderator
So no codes here? I'm curious if a previous owner may have had an aftermarket alarm put in place and that's what is jumping your ignition signal.
You said you've got to pull the fuel pump fuse you kill it. I'm guessing you then pull the battery to take the power from the ignition?
You're saying no dealer but when I've come across gremlins I prefer to take it to a dedicated electronics shop. They find and fix trivial things for $75- tough to beat and its been absolutely worth the cash when I've "inherited" someone else's problem.
You said you've got to pull the fuel pump fuse you kill it. I'm guessing you then pull the battery to take the power from the ignition?
You're saying no dealer but when I've come across gremlins I prefer to take it to a dedicated electronics shop. They find and fix trivial things for $75- tough to beat and its been absolutely worth the cash when I've "inherited" someone else's problem.
#6
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2007 JK Does not turn off
No codes, Everything is apart so I can visibly see and touch all wiring from the firewall back/front including the middle console. There is no aftermarket anything.
Actually, even when I disconnect the negative battery post, the Jeep still runs. It stops running after I pull the fuel pump fuse or disconnect the positive battery post.
I have disconnected everything (PCM, TPIM) so it would discharge.
Actually, even when I disconnect the negative battery post, the Jeep still runs. It stops running after I pull the fuel pump fuse or disconnect the positive battery post.
I have disconnected everything (PCM, TPIM) so it would discharge.
#7
JK Super Freak
When you disconnect the Negative terminal, it still runs. The alternator/ generator is completing a circuit independent of the Battery ?? If it starts with the Negative terminal off, it's Possessed.
At first I was thinking the ignition switch Rod that moves to contacts at bottom of steering column was culprit ( my 1992 YJ,,had this ) but this is an Interesting Problem.
At first I was thinking the ignition switch Rod that moves to contacts at bottom of steering column was culprit ( my 1992 YJ,,had this ) but this is an Interesting Problem.
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#8
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Update
When you disconnect the Negative terminal, it still runs. The alternator/ generator is completing a circuit independent of the Battery ?? If it starts with the Negative terminal off, it's Possessed.
At first I was thinking the ignition switch Rod that moves to contacts at bottom of steering column was culprit ( my 1992 YJ,,had this ) but this is an Interesting Problem.
At first I was thinking the ignition switch Rod that moves to contacts at bottom of steering column was culprit ( my 1992 YJ,,had this ) but this is an Interesting Problem.
#9
JK Jedi Master
From your description, it's obvious everything is running from the generator output when you disconnect the battery.
However, it's not supposed to do that.
Under normal conditions, the PCM looks for battery voltage. When it doesn't see 12 volts, (battery disconnected), it is supposed to cut the field voltage to the generator, thereby shutting everything off, including the engine.
I am thinking you have a short somewhere, allowing the PCM to still see the 12 volts it looks for, even though it's from the alternator instead of from the battery. Under those conditions, it will not cut voltage to the generator field. This may also not allow the normal shutdown sequence to happen.
However, it's not supposed to do that.
Under normal conditions, the PCM looks for battery voltage. When it doesn't see 12 volts, (battery disconnected), it is supposed to cut the field voltage to the generator, thereby shutting everything off, including the engine.
I am thinking you have a short somewhere, allowing the PCM to still see the 12 volts it looks for, even though it's from the alternator instead of from the battery. Under those conditions, it will not cut voltage to the generator field. This may also not allow the normal shutdown sequence to happen.
Last edited by ronjenx; 02-10-2017 at 02:06 PM.