devwil68

So I will be looking to upgrade the rear in the next 2-4 months and I want to get some advice on what my realistic option should be.

We do some pretty good wheeling, MOAB, RUBICON (once but gonna go back) and some pretty good Rocky Areas here in the area.

Currently running 37s and do not plan on running 40s in the future.

Front consists of a PR44U and an EVO MFG coilover kit with Rock Krawler upper and lower control arms. It has done well in the environments we have been in.

Moving to the rear this year and want to know what the best way to go is. Hope to get the rear coilvoers to match, but wanna know what to do with the axle before getting them.

We never plan to run 40s, maybe 38s but nothing over that. Do I just upgrade my rear 44 with shafts, truss, and locker with only running 37s?

OR...do I spend the money on the insurance and go with the Trail 60 and then chop the shock brakets off and run the coilover kit? I want to keep the stock 5on5 bolt pattern to match the PR44U...so I think the PR is out of reach anyway

What would you do? I just know that th PR60 built out the right way is gonna get toooooo high for me, plus needing the adapter on the front to match the rear bolt pattern.

Matthewd5

I would get the Dynatrac D60 for the rear, two years ago his Week I swapped out the front for he pr44u and the D60 in the rear

I run 37's as well and I love the setup and am very happy I went this route

Matthew

nthinuf

Dana Ultimate 60? Around 4.5k with shafts/locker/gears/bigger brakes/etc. Full float, not semi. Then do wheel adapters on either end.

And since I'm spending your money, go ahead and do a spyntec up front...

JE8154

If you're planning on going with the evo bolt on coilovers it doesn't matter what you do with the axle. You can leave the stock one in the rear and if you manage to break it you can buy a semi float 60 then.

Biginboca

If the trail 60 is a semi float then there doesn't seem to be much gain for the $$. I would run the rear you have with shafts (ten factory for bent flange warranty).

Then like said if it breaks get a full float like maybe a mopar 60. The rear 44's seem to do pretty well with 37's though and a 44 on 37's has only 3/4" less ground clearance than a 60 on 40" tires so it's a capable and fairly dependable combo.

TheDirtman

I would not bother with rear coil overs unless you are going to outboard or inboard them where you can optimize the set up and travel. There is just not enough to work with with the factory mounting locations. Plus you have them hanging out the back end where they are more easily damaged in the rocks. Running 38's is the same as running 40's for front fitment due to the extra width of most 38" tires.

goo

The trail 60 is semi float and also high pinion. Good for ground clearance, not so much for strength. I would be curious to see the strength differences between a 35 spline low pinion jk 44, and a 35 spline high pinion d60 SF. Probably not that big of a difference at all, seems like a waste of money.

I agree with dirtman regarding rear coil overs. Another option is a cantilever system. But if you plan on sticking them between the stock shock mounts, seems like a waste of money.

HDGasser

I've been wompin on the factory rear 44 with a Hemi & 37's for a couple years now and no problems... Yet... (Knocks on wood)

JKZinger

Better keep knocking! I have been too even without a Hemi. Only a matter of time!

Invest2m4

Agree that those rear coilovers aren't worth the investment.

Also, semi-float 60s are a waste of money. The rear JK 44 is strong, the pinion is D60 size, and it is low pinion. The 60 has a slightly larger ring gear, but is also high pinion and on the weak coast side of the gears. I couldn't say with certainty that the rear 60 is notably stronger than a JK rear 44 in terms of R&P. Would be close.

A guy in our club here has a PR60 semi-float rear and runs 37s. In one year, he has bent 3 axle flanges. You will still burn up wheel bearings as well. The weakness of the JK rear axle is that it is semi-float. The PR60 in semi-float addresses none of that.

Really, you gain pretty much nothing with a semi-float rear. In addition, it is now crazy to even consider it since you can get the full float Dana 60 for less. Take that savings, then sell your front axle, and buy the full UD60 set. Slightly more incremental cost, but way stronger. In addition, it will have a much greater impact on resale value than the PR setup would.