MAG00

I have been investigating/researching the possibility of purchasing upgrading my front axle on my 2013 Jeep JKU. I had been looking at the Dynatrac Prorock 44 Unlimited and then I came across another option through Fusion 4x4.

A lot of folks on here are at least familiar with Dynatrac, so here is the info I received from Fusion 4x4. They do state their opinions on some things.:
There is a lot of marketing out there and many a fan base built on limited knowledge. The PR44, in a box, is a really nice axle. However, it is a $5200 D44. That part, I struggle look past. It is certainly not the magic that people perceive it to be. What you have vs. a standard D44 is a stronger housing. That is it - a stronger housing for $5200. If you are running 35" or larger tires, you are still running parts that aren't designed to run a tire that large. Weak unit bearings, small ball joints, small brakes, small steering, etc. Yes, you can upgrade the brakes and steering, but now you have over $6k into a D44. My point is that when you really step back and think about what you get, it just isn't that much. If the PR44 were $3k, totally different story. I'm a guy who has run a D30, a built 44, blew up a D44, etc. I've done it all, sold them all, and learned a lot along the way. I have a habit of tracking failure data that comes up on or off the forum. I see the parts that fail and the ones that don't.

A front Rubicon axle can be picked up cheap these days. Some gussets and a truss and all is well. If someone can break that, it's D60 time. If you are looking seriously at axles like this and considering a 60, that tells me you are someone who plans to use it.

Now, one thing I like to mention is the JK rear D44. Most underrated axle ever. It is a strong axle. If we are talking semi-float axles, I would run a rear JK44 before I ran a semi float PR60. With a PR60 semi float, you will still bend flanges and wear bearings out. Is the larger ring gear stronger? Until someone provides me with definitive data, I do not believe it is. The PR60 is high pinion, which means it runs on the weak side of the gear. Deflection occurs under load. The JK rear 44 is low pinion and runs a larger thick cut ring gear and near D60 size pinion. The tubes are large. Really, it is a great axle for running 37s. 40s are questionable only because people will spec 5.38 gears, which results in less tooth contact. If a person could run a 4.56, it would likely hold up to moderate abuse.

That is background to my view that the JK world has it backwards. It should be 60 front, 44 rear. With a 60 front, you get all the big parts you need, plus all the benefits of locking hubs. Now, when I say 60 front, 44 rear, I am talking about the 99-04 D60, which is not the monster that the 05+ is. It is 69", not a pig in terms of weight, etc. It is a really nice balance.

How we would recommend someone do it is to run the 60 front in a 5x5.5 bolt pattern and in the rear, run adapters that go from 5x5 to 5x5.5. Inexpensive and it brings the rear in line with the width of the front. Yes, you have to get new wheels, but it is a nominal cost after selling your current wheels.

We use front unit bearings that are plug and play with the JK ABS sensors. Pricing really depends on what options you want. Some people want it all up front, some are fine running some stock components and upgrading later. Simply stated, we can sell you a front D60 for less than the PR44 you have priced out.

Below is my current set up along with the Dynatrac PR44 and Fusion4x4 D60 set ups I would be considering. With the exception of requiring a new front drive shaft the Fusion4x4 set up would be about $500 cheaper which I believe would cover the cost of a new front drive shaft.

My current set up:

- 2013 JKU (4dr)
- Rock Krawler 2.5 Max Travel lift
- Synergy front track bar
- Synergy sector shaft brace
- Fox steering stabilizer with the synergy relocation kit
- The front track bar is in the factory location
- Factory brakes
- Factory knuckles
- Factory tie rod and drag link
- Factory front drive shaft

When I have been looking at the Dyntrac Prorock 44 Unlimited, I have priced out the following:
- Dynatrac ProRock 44 Unlimited housing
- Re-use/retain stock knuckles
- Set up to connect to factory front drive shaft for now
- Re-use/retain stock brakes
- Set up for factory track bar location
- Re-use/retain Synergy front trac bar
- Re-use/retain factory drag link
- Re-use/retail Synergy sector shaft brace
- Re-use/retain Fox steering stabilizer. New axle would have new mount.
- Either Synergy or Dyntrac ball joints
- 4:56 gears
- Either Eaton E-Locker or ARB Locker
- RCV axle shafts

With the Fusion 4x4 set up, they would be building:
- Front axle as mentioned above
- Re-use/retain Synergy front trac bar. New axle would have bracket with height options.
- Re-use/retail Synergy sector shaft brace
- Re-use/retain Fox steering stabilizer. New axle would have new mount.
- New axle would come with new larger brakes
- New axle would come with new knuckles
- New axle would come with new tie rod and drag link. "Stock" (came with larger axle) stuff or have option to upgrade.
- Front drive shaft will have to be replaced.
- 4:56 gears
- Eaton e-locker
- New axle would come with new ball joints to fit.
- "Stock" axle shafts are 30 spline outer and 35 spline inner

Honestly I am learning as I go here. I am not overly experienced or educated on all of the parts and process. So with the info above and below, what are your thoughts, opinions, recommendations, etc.

Chuck-The-Ripper

It's not even a question. I go through unit bearings almost every month. Ball joints last maybe a year if I'm lucky. Prorock retains both of those. The fusion axles were created by actual jeepers for jeepers to give a better option compared to the Prorock. An analogy comparing the two would be: buying a new Camaro and deciding between the v8 or the v6 model IF they were the same price. (Hypothetically obviously). Why not have bigger, better, and stronger for the same price? Even if you think the prorock would fit your current needs, wouldn't it be nice to have no doubt that your axle is strong enough to run nearly any tire you would throw at it?

MAG00

I do agree with this reasoning. I guess part of my hesitation is not being well versed or educated on all of the parts, processes, and working on them. The Dynatrac comes across as more "engineered" for the jeep rather than mixing in parts from another make/model vehicle. And maybe that's due to marketing. Not knocking Dynatrac by any means as I think they make a quality product.

I know the Fusion axles would be stronger. I guess the fact that upgrading parts, or having to work on or replace parts later would involve looking for items that aren't even Jeep parts (both either stock or upgrades). Thus my lack of knowledge plays in to fuel the hesitation or fear. But I guess you've got to learn somehow, right?

MAG00

What are folks thoughts on manual locking hubs? I know a lot of hardcore off-roaders like them. I just have always liked not having to exit the vehicle to go into 4wd.

What are pros/cons to going manual locking hubs?

pontiac31

I cannot argue with the bigger is better (if you can make it work) theory. However, it is almost impossible to believe you go through unit bearings monthly??? I average 12-15000 miles per year on Pennsylvania slat covered roads. I run a local off road club and wheel at least once a month in mud, love playing in rocks and I have only ever replaced one wheel bearing. I now have just under 60000 miles total. about 45000 have been on my pr44. I do have the prosteer ball joints and have never replaced them, (one was rebuilt due to a blown axle shaft taking it out). I am locked front and rear on 37s.

Chuck-The-Ripper

I can take a picture of the receipt when I get home. I should still have it. I just replaced the unit bearing in this video, no joke, less than 2 weeks ago. I just uploaded it so you can see.
I daily drive roughly 100 miles a day to Pittsburgh and wheel pretty hard almost every weekend or every other weekend. I just replaced the ball joints a couple weeks ago with the teraflex so I hope to have success with them as the last ones I've replaced it with were autozone brand. I think I went through 2-3 sets of them since I've owned the jeep. Do you have rcvs? I've heard people say they contribute to the longevity of the hubs but I'm not sure if that is factual or not.
https://youtu.be/6IvpfVbVcc8

OP, as for your question regarding parts to be replaced in the future, which probably won't happen often: You could have them list each part specifically as in which exact vehicle or such it comes from. I don't think anyone over there would mind giving you a complete parts breakdown. I'm sure they probably do it anyway.

Rob 12B1P

Don't forget to add in some money for another set of wheels if you go d60's.

Maertz

Its a pain coming from always on, but you have the option to leave them locked also...

pontiac31

I run g2 chromoly, fronts. Still have an existing mopar wheel bearing and the other is a Napa gold. I would say you have underlying issue, or the bearings are junk if you go through them that quick.

DJ1

I didn't even know fusion had this on their site and this is what I was thinking last night as I was doing more research. Slap the junkyard 60 up front, keep the stock 44 in the rear and go with an ARB locker and get beefier axle shafts with the higher spline count. My concern was the weight of the 05+ front axle fully loaded by itself and the total increase in weight by going full float 60's front and rear.

** edit ** correction, I see Dan put it in his email....not on the site itself **

Although most everyone likes the beefier is better, good to know that the 99-04's give a good balance.