Help Upgrading to 37"s
02-01-2017, 11:23 AM
#11
JK Jedi
I've got to say that this is catching my eye. The advantage is you get the beefier D60 parts and tubes as well as keep your current set of wheels and speed sensors. Down side is you still have the D44 ball joint issue (perhaps the Rare Parts joints will turn out to work) and the wheel bearing assembly. But for a spec'd out price around $5600 it's interesting to me.
https://fusion4x4.com/fusion-4x4/fus...rid-front-axle
UD60s are certainly an amazing choice, but come with need for different wheels, steering components, and probably master cylinder and a base price of nearly $12K just for the axles.
https://fusion4x4.com/fusion-4x4/fus...rid-front-axle
UD60s are certainly an amazing choice, but come with need for different wheels, steering components, and probably master cylinder and a base price of nearly $12K just for the axles.
02-01-2017, 11:36 AM
#12
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
It sounds like you have a really aggressive build planned for being pretty new to jeeps. Are you going to be doing your own work along the way, or just paying someone to build this for you? There’s a bit of a learning curve, but if you do it yourself you gain a lot of valuable knowledge that will help you troubleshoot things later down the road.
Address axles & axle reinforcement (gussets/truss/brackets)/gears/chromoly shafts/lockers cuz D30 and 37s isn’t gonna be a good combo in general.
Ball joints – Rare Parts or Dynatracs
Consider big brake kit
Pick wheels with proper backspacing
Get comfortable with trimming a little pinch seam
If you’re gonna wheel hard consider upgrading the steering box or going hydro
Address axles & axle reinforcement (gussets/truss/brackets)/gears/chromoly shafts/lockers cuz D30 and 37s isn’t gonna be a good combo in general.
Ball joints – Rare Parts or Dynatracs
Consider big brake kit
Pick wheels with proper backspacing
Get comfortable with trimming a little pinch seam
If you’re gonna wheel hard consider upgrading the steering box or going hydro
02-01-2017, 12:32 PM
#13
JK Jedi
I am planning on doing as much of the work as I can myself. My question is for the big brake kit do I just need a kit for the front or front and rear? I was looking on extreme terrain and they only seem to have front big brake kits with pads, calipers, and rotors but rear kits with only rotors. Also what hydro steering would you recommend?
I think your biggest decision is going to be what to do with that front axle.
Last edited by resharp001; 02-01-2017 at 12:36 PM.
02-01-2017, 12:57 PM
#14
JK Jedi Master
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There are a few options that jump way up in price (Baer and whoever else), but the most popular brake kits are front/rear 'rotors' from Dynatrac or Teraflex, or front-only 'rotor/caliper' kits from Teraflex or Mopar. You'll find a bunch of threads talking about the pro's/con's of each to help you narrow down the choice.
Redneck Ram (west texas offroad) is another popular option for the steering.
Redneck Ram (west texas offroad) is another popular option for the steering.
02-01-2017, 04:04 PM
#15
JK Enthusiast
Hydro is still on my list, but I'm planning on going with PSC. Not only are they great, they're local for me. Others might suggest another alternative, but PSC is pretty popular. That's typical with the brake kits, mainly address the front.
I think your biggest decision is going to be what to do with that front axle.
I think your biggest decision is going to be what to do with that front axle.
As far as brakes, the bigger ones are always going to be up front as that's where a majority of your braking power resides. Make sure when you upgrade to bigger calipers that your master cylinder can support the extra volume required.
02-02-2017, 11:06 AM
#16
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Hello,
I am looking to upgrade my 2012 Jeep JKU Sport to 37" tires and all the aftermarket parts that come with that upgrade, however, I am relatively new to the Jeep world (bought it about 8 months ago) and know very little about what parts to buy and where/who to buy them from. I currently have 285s and a 2.5" lift on my Jeep right now. I am planning on upping my suspension to Evo coilovers so the lift won't be a problem. I have read some other threads on this forum and it seems that most people are recommending new steering components, dana 44 front, brakes, ball joints, draglinks, tie rod, and regearing. Is there anything I am missing and what steering components should I get? Also recommended brands and where to buy are very much appreciated. I would also like to get front and rear lockers and a disconnecting sway bar. I plan on doing this over the next year-2 years. I have some experience but not a lot so please try to keep it semi-simple, I am very eager to learn everything I can though. Any help is very much appreciated. And any other parts you think I should upgrade would also greatly help.
I am looking to upgrade my 2012 Jeep JKU Sport to 37" tires and all the aftermarket parts that come with that upgrade, however, I am relatively new to the Jeep world (bought it about 8 months ago) and know very little about what parts to buy and where/who to buy them from. I currently have 285s and a 2.5" lift on my Jeep right now. I am planning on upping my suspension to Evo coilovers so the lift won't be a problem. I have read some other threads on this forum and it seems that most people are recommending new steering components, dana 44 front, brakes, ball joints, draglinks, tie rod, and regearing. Is there anything I am missing and what steering components should I get? Also recommended brands and where to buy are very much appreciated. I would also like to get front and rear lockers and a disconnecting sway bar. I plan on doing this over the next year-2 years. I have some experience but not a lot so please try to keep it semi-simple, I am very eager to learn everything I can though. Any help is very much appreciated. And any other parts you think I should upgrade would also greatly help.
There have been some really good suggestions so far, and obviously ones that involve Dynatrac are the best! ;-)
With going to 37s, upgrading your brakes will be pretty important, because the increase in both wheel/tire diameter and weight puts even more load on your brakes to get the Jeep stopped because of the extra inertia and mass. For both regular driving, and on the trail when you need to keep the Jeep in place on a steep incline or decline, going with an upgrade like our ProGrip brake system will give you all the stopping/holding power you need. Best part is, you don't have to crack open the brake system's hydraulics, so no bleeding required. You can learn more about the ProGrip, including some install and comparison stories, along with a great before/after video at https://www.dynatrac.com/brake-systems.html
On the front axle situation, yes, as some have stated, a D30 can be wheeled with 37s. But the margin for error here, even with all those reinforcements, is extremely narrow. You're still essentially pulling the pin on a hand grenade that will go off, and as we're all too familiar with, it'll happen at the most inopportune time typically. When you re-gear a D30 for larger diameter wheels/tires like 37s, you end up with an even smaller diameter pinion gear, making a particular weak spot on the D30 even weaker. Even with trusses, gussets, braces, tube sleeves, and everything else available, you're just piling up Band-Aid fix on top of Band-Aid fix that still leaves you with a weak axle for what you want to do. On top of that, considering how most D30s fail even with all those aforementioned modifications, it will mean all those parts you bolted on will become junk. You're much better off upgrading to a D44 unit of some sort, like our ProRock 44 axle assembly (https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemb...k-44-axle.html) that will have more than enough strength for those 37s, along with just about any sort of off-roading you plan on doing. That means you can focus on driving and enjoying the adventure, not sweating if you're axle is going to break getting over an obstacle of some sort. It's a solid investment in your Jeep that will pay dividends down the road, even if you decide to sell it later on down the line.
02-02-2017, 11:33 AM
#17
JK Jedi
I'll throw this out there for the OP to ponder as well as far as axle upgrade. I was in a similar situation few years back. In an effort to get lockers, I swapped in to some Rubi D44's. I paid $1850 for a new crated front axle. I slapped some gussets on there prior to install. At the time, a PR44 seemed like such a HUGE cost. Well, few years down the line and I have installed Dynatrac BJs, regeared, and am getting ready to pull the axle back off to add truss along with beefy shock and LCA brackets. When you really add up the cost of what it takes to get a Rubi 44 geared, reinforced, and with substantial brackets, the cost difference between those axles narrows up quite a bit. At the end of the day, the benefit I got was stretching my cost out over a couple years, but I think going with an aftermarket axle like a PR44 would have been a better route in general.
02-02-2017, 12:25 PM
#18
Former Vendor
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local
Hydro is still on my list, but I'm planning on going with PSC. Not only are they great, they're local for me. Others might suggest another alternative, but PSC is pretty popular. That's typical with the brake kits, mainly address the front.
I think your biggest decision is going to be what to do with that front axle.
I think your biggest decision is going to be what to do with that front axle.
So local I see your jeep parked at brookshires all the time.(I live in aledo)
PSCJEFF
02-02-2017, 12:38 PM
#19
JK Jedi
If you ever see me outside by the jeep hollar over!
02-02-2017, 04:13 PM
#20
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
I'll throw this out there for the OP to ponder as well as far as axle upgrade. I was in a similar situation few years back. In an effort to get lockers, I swapped in to some Rubi D44's. I paid $1850 for a new crated front axle. I slapped some gussets on there prior to install. At the time, a PR44 seemed like such a HUGE cost. Well, few years down the line and I have installed Dynatrac BJs, regeared, and am getting ready to pull the axle back off to add truss along with beefy shock and LCA brackets. When you really add up the cost of what it takes to get a Rubi 44 geared, reinforced, and with substantial brackets, the cost difference between those axles narrows up quite a bit. At the end of the day, the benefit I got was stretching my cost out over a couple years, but I think going with an aftermarket axle like a PR44 would have been a better route in general.