DJ1

For the transfer cases that have been imploding, were these more apparent in 4 doors vs 2 doors with aftermarket shafts?

Went wheeling the other week and the stock joint (boot) at the rear pinion finally gave out. I pulled the rear drive shaft and have been driving in "front wheel" drive for the last week. Talk about over steer but that's another story.

I picked up a rear Adams 1350 with the sealed joints but all this talk of driveline vibration lately and transfer cases going boom has me wondering if the problem was occurring more in the JKU's? Just wondering if driveline vibrations would be more apparent in the longer driveshaft of the JKU compared to the much shorter shaft of the 2-door. I'm currently in a 2-door with 2.5 AEV lift.

In either case, I may just beef up the transfer case with the RSE brace for added insurance.

Biginboca

The cases I know of (maybe 6) were all front driveshaft related. I run the RSE brace it's much cheaper than a transfer case lol

DJ1

Thanks for chiming in. That's good to know. Didn't realize it was all front DS related. Now I feel better about moving forward with the rear DS install.

I'm actually still running the stock front DS right now but have the Teraflex Rezeppa kit that's been sitting on the garage table for about 4 months now staring at me every morning wondering when it's going to get some lovin'.

For your RSE brace did you have to do any tapping or was it a straight bolt-in w/ no issues? I'm in a 2012 and for some reason I think I read somewhere that tapping was involved. Not that tapping is an issue it's just I'm too damn lazy

Biginboca

I have a 2011 Rubi and on mine it was all bolt up no tapping needed. I did have to do some trimming of the brace to fit around this harmonic balancer my transfer case had on the rear yoke. And a little trimming around my exhaust which is custom so you probably would not have that issue.

Ajkaz

The vibes seem to be worse on the 2 door as the DS angle is worse when lifted and using a shorter shaft. I run the RSE brace on my 2 door 07, with F&R DC shafts. Very easy install, no tapping or trimming for me. Being in SoCal often I have to travel 2+ hours each way to the trail and back and with highway speeds around 75 with 37's I didn't want a shaft to destroy my 4:1 case in the event of a highway failure.

kjeeper10

Iirc this is a front issue with caster/pinion angles and a double carden.

I run the brace as well.

DJ1

Sounds good guys. The whole time I was thinking it was rear DS related with the double cardan.

sm_rubi

When we blew ours up in the JKU it was with a 1350 shaft, 37s, auto, 5.13 gears, going 80 mph. We had a bad angle and the deadly seat vibrations which is a sign of bad things.

DJ1

Hey Frank, that was with a 1350 DC mounted in the front correct? Thanks in advance...

sm_rubi

Yeah, it wasn't a mounting issue but a castor issue. We would literally eat up DS unjoints every 3 months on the front. It got so bad we'd remove it on the road. Then we went to a PR44 Unlimited and still had issues documented at our driveline shop. Seems the mounts weren't burned in where they needed to be. I had Dynatrac tack them in so we could position them where they needed to be but the shop just burned them in where they were at...pissed off we got her fixed and no more vibes.