Learo2000GT

I know see that Artec sells a truss with no raised bracket and a raised bracket for flip links. I got the raised one but the bottom part of the drag link and track bar are pretty parallel. Is there an area to measure or check for difference in being parallel. Also at what percent aprox does the out of parallel effect steering. Last two questions for now. Is there a benefit to track bar other then nessesity to correct geometry of stearing. What brand do folks recommend that will work with fox ATs stabalizer and 2.5 RK lift. Okay one last question. Will I need taller springs with flip kit? If it is a good upgrade regardless I might just pick one up but don't want to buy new springs which will put alignment, bump stops, shock setup and a whole bunch of new headaches. Thanks Doug.

nthinuf

It may be easier to try and get a single picture that shows the mounting holes on both ends of both bars. Then open the pic in paint or another editor and draw straight lines from mounting hole to mounting hole, (or center joint to center joint?) and you can easily see how parallel they are. Since he bars have bends in them, straight lines in a pic can be easier to read.

This pic was posted in a bumpsteer thread a while back. Even though the actual mounting holes couldn't be seen in his original picture, adding the yellow lines to it showed a good guesstimate of the angles he was working with.

JE8154

looks like you got the raised track bar bracket. The stock height bracket only has 2 holes in it.

Dahmer

Looks like you opted for the raised height track bar bracket that is designed for 3"+ lifts. It is also designed to be used with a drag link flip and that usually require 3" bump stops or knocking the frame to prevent hitting all setups are different though. That said looks like you need to get a drag link flip or the stock height bracket.

Mschneid

It looks to me like you could use the lower hole and fix your problem. I just went through the same thing, once I went back to the bottom hole my problem went away.

D_engel

the bottom is still about 1.5" higher than the stock location so it cant be used without issues. OP, just get a flipped draglink and tapered knuckle insert. Its a lot easier than cutting off a bracket and welding on a new one. You will have to run 3" of bumpstop though.

Learo2000GT

Well the lower hole looks perfect. It is off about 2 to 3 inches at the bottom 50 percent from bottom of track bar to drag link. Drag link has lot of slop in it. You are right it is wrong bracket. I read their website. If I move to the lower hole it looks perfect but I am not sure with articulation if u will clear the axel housing with arb covers. The hole where my mounting bolt for my ATs looks perfect. Except I am not sure how a front track bar moves during articulation.

So next 2 questions how does a front track bar move during articulation and if I go with drag link I have 2inch bump stops now so would I just need 1 inch spacer drag link and call it a day. I would like to do it anyway after seeing the slop in stock one. But sounds like I could lose articulation. Is notching frame labor intensive for welder? Here are pics of flex, swat bar link at duff cover and a couple others but it's off about the size of a good fist.

Learo2000GT

Photo

TRAUMAhead

With 3" front bump stops, my tire (35s) is about 1.5" away from the front fender support at full flex. I was considering a frame notch, but I'm going with 37s next so less bumps would have some body rub. Notching is intensive if they do it right. Notching, checking clearance, etc.

I'd get a straight on shot like nthinuf's picture. Here's mine, used the DL boots and track bar bolts as reference, without them and the lines it will look deceiving.

Learo2000GT

Well guess I will see if I can move track bar to other hole with out rubbing on diff. If not then I will get a drag link flip. Any recommendations on which is easiest to work with thanks.