DEI 508D Proximity Motion Sensor addition to stock alarm system
06-12-2010, 10:41 PM
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JK Freak
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DEI 508D Proximity Motion Sensor addition to stock alarm system
Like many of you, I like to run my Jeep topless and doorless during the warm, sunny months between spring and fall. Having your Jeep wide open like this presents an obvious security risk, so I've been looking at ways to install a proximity motion sensor which would trigger an alarm when someone decides to hop into my Jeep to do whatever, perhaps break open my glove box or center console to see what goodies may be in there, or maybe to rip out my myGig stereo/nav system. You may even want to do this for added security with a soft top and doors on. After doing some research, I found a very affordable solution that connects into the existing OEM alarm system.
Parts and Supplies Needed:
DEI 508D Any Car Alarm Proximity Radar Motion Sensor
4" strip of good quality self-adhesive velcro
3' of 20 gauge black wire
3' of 20 gauge red wire
3' of 20 gauge white wire
4' of 20 gauge blue wire
Solder
6" of 1/16" or 3/32" diameter heatshrink tubing
4' of 1/4" diameter split loom tubing
4 18-22 gauge wire taps
12V 5-pin automotive relay
4 female blade connectors
Small SPST switch (optional)
6-10 small zip-ties (optional)
Tools Needed:
T20 Torx driver
T30 Torx driver
Soldering iron
Socket wrench
6" socket extension
7mm socket
Small, 1" wide pry bar, chisel or putty knife
Mini flathead screw driver
Connector crimping tool
1. I purchased the DEI 508D Any Car Alarm Proximity Radar Motion Sensor, sold by AudioSource, at Amazon-dot-com for $35.85.
2. This is what comes in package: sensor, wiring harness and instructions.
The motion sensor is best installed somewhere central within the vehicle, so I figured somewhere in the center console area would be great. So I proceeded to disassemble the center console to find a place to install the motion sensor.
3. This step isn't absolutely necessary, however it's easier working with the center console door removed and out of the way. Using a T20 Torx driver, remove the four screws attaching the center console door hinge to the center console. Once you remove the door and take a look at it, feel free to curse Chrysler for wasting all that potential storage space on a fat a$$ center console door.
4. Move the driver's seat all the way forward, and using a T20 Torx driver, remove the four small screws at the four corners of the driver-side side panel of the center console. Using a T30 Torx driver, remove the one larger screw on the bottom of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side.
5. This step is optional, but you might find it easier to work with the rear cup holder removed. Pull the console side panels outward a bit and unlatch the side clips holding rear cup holder in place.
6. The center console rear panel can be removed the same way that the rear cup holder was removed. This is optional, but depending on your setup and your specific installation, you may want to remove this.
7. Fully remove the center console insert by lifting up and pulling outward the side panels while wiggling the center console insert out the back.
Note: If you have a 4-door model with electronic windows, it won't be as easy to remove the center console insert. Please see dizk's post #15.
8. I found that the DEI 508D sensor fit nicely in front of the center console insert, just below the top lip. I have a 2-door JK. If you have a 4-door, perhaps mounting the sensor towards the back of the center console would position it more centrally. I used a strip of 3M self-adhesive velcro to stick the sensor here. I suggest using velcro so that you can easily remove and reattach the sensor when making sensitivity adjustments.
hansen65 installed his sensor in the center console door/arm rest, which is a great location especially for the 4-door JK's. See hansen65's post # 45.
9. I snapped the center console insert back in place to make sure that it fits. You can see the LED lights of the sensor through the hole where the center console door latches to.
With the sensor in place, now it's time to wire it into the OEM alarm system.
There are four wires in the wiring harness that comes with the sensor.
Red: (+)12V constant fused
Black: (-) chassis ground
Green: (-) First-stage Warn-Away output
Blue: (-) Second-stage trigger output
I'm not using the green wire for the first stage warning. Only the second stage trigger is used. To trigger the alarm from the motion sensor, I tapped into the wire that triggers the OEM alarm system when the tail gate is opened. For constant power, I tapped into the wires connected to the constant power outlet on the bottom right of the front console. Since the motion sensor doesn't require much current, I don't think I have to worry about overloading this circuit.
10. I ran three wires along the passenger side of the center console to my motion sensor. I would have wanted to use a blue wire instead of the green one, but the electronics store I went to didn't have blue in stock. I zip-tied the three wires together about every 12" just to keep it neat, then wrapped them in split loom tubing.
11. I snipped off about a foot length of the wires on the DEI 508D wiring harness, and soldered the wiring harness wires to the wires that I ran along the right side of the center console. Only a few inches of the wiring harness wires is really needed, but I wanted to have extra length in case I screwed up and needed to redo any soldering. Again, I'm not using the green wire from the sensor's wiring harness. The solder points were covered with heatshrink tubing. I also covered up the end of the unused green wire with heatshrink tubing. hansen65 found that the DEI 508D wiring harness was long enough to reach all the way to the front console, so you might want to do that instead of running your own wires along the center console. See hansen65's post # 45.
12. I bundled up and zip-tied the extra wire, then connected the wiring harness to the sensor.
Now that the motion sensor is wired in, we need to connect the other ends of those wires. The red and black wires will tap into the constant power outlet on the bottom right of the front console. The front console will need to be pulled apart in order to gain access to the wires that we'll be tapping into.
13. Remove the bottom panel of the front console. Start by using a small pry bar, chisel or putty knike, and pry away the top edge of this bottom panel. There are two snaps on the top edge to pop out. Once these two snaps are popped out, you can lift the panel off.
14. With the bottom panel of the front console removed, you can now access the two bottom screws holding the front console main panel in place. Use a 7mm socket and a 6" socket extension to remove these screws.
15. With the bottom screws removed, carefully pull away the front console panel starting from the bottom. There are three or four snaps on both sides to pop out.
16. I tapped into the red and black wires that provide constant power to the power outlet on the bottom right of the front panel.
17. Unplug the wiring harness connected to the back of the power outlet. Press in the bottom of the black connector, and pull it away from the grey connector. Tap into these two red and black wires, and connect to the red and black wires from the sensor via the wires that were run along the right side of the center console.
18. The blue trigger wire from the motion sensor will be connected to the wire that triggers the tail gate opening, which can be found to the right of where the front passenger's right foot would be. To orient yourself with this picture, behind the bunch of black-with-white-stripe wires at the top-right, is the connector where the passenger side door wiring harness would plug into. The tail gate trigger wire is the purple wire that I separated out from the big bunch of various-colored wires. Tap into this purple wire, and connect back to the blue wire on the motion sensor wiring harness via the the wires that were run along the right side of the center console.
Note: Your setup may be different. Please see dizk's post #15 (thanks dizk for helping this write-up!).
19. Reassemble the front (not center) console panels.
20. Now it's time to calibrate the motion sensor. Snap the center console insert back into place, place the center console rear panel back in place, and put the center console door back on top of the center console insert, but NO NOT REPLACE ANY OF THE CENTER CONSOLE SCREWS YET.
21. Arm your alarm system, wait for the red blinking light on the dashboard to change from fast blinking to slow blinking (I think this takes about 15 seconds), then wait another 4 seconds, and test the motion sensor by slowly approaching then entering your Jeep until the alarm is triggered.
22. Remove the center console insert again, and using a mini flathead screw driver, adjust the motion sensor's sensitivity accordingly. Only adjust the left adjustment screw, as shown in the picture. Turning clockwise increases sensitivity.
Repeat from Step 20 until you're satisfied with the sensor's sensitivity. Be sure that the motion sensor's sensitivity is adjusted just right before putting the center console all back together and replacing all the screws, because it's a big time-consuming hassle to disassemble and reassemble the center console again later to make further sensitivity adjustments.
23. Once your motion sensor's sensitivity is adjusted, put the center console back together fully and replace all the screws.
That's it! Now you can have a little more peace of mind when leaving your topless doorless Jeep unattended.
Edit: There's a significant downside to this setup however, which I found out the first time I took the Jeep for a spin after installing this sensor. Since the sensor's trigger taps into the tail gate's trigger, as you're driving around and someone inside the Jeep moves around, the dashboard will say "gate", as though the tail gate has opened, and you may hear a beep. But to make things worse, the dome light will also come on. You can keep the dome light from coming on by manually turning it off using the control on the steering column, but when you do that, the dashboard lumination is at it's dimmest setting when your headlights are on, which makes things difficult to see at times. And then you'll still need to put up with the beep and the dashboard "gate" indicator coming on. Just be aware of this before doing this mod, then decide for yourself if the benefit will outweigh the inconvenience. And if you do this mod, then decide that you don't want to hassle with it, then just unplug the wiring harness from the sensor, and you're back to where you were before doing the mod. I'm thinking I'll install a switch inside the center console to quickly and easily enable or disable the sensor at will, particularly in the winter when the hard top and doors are back on.
Stay Tuned! I'll be updating this write-up after I install the manual sensor disable switch that I mentioned above, and the 5-pin relay that txjeeplover suggested in Post #7 (Thanks for the tip txjeeplover!).
Update: I installed the manual sensor disable switch and the 5-pin relay. Here's how I did it.
24. I wired the manual sensor disable switch inline with the power source to the motion sensor, and mounted the switch inside the center console. This is a simple, small SPST switch that was labeled as an "alarm switch", and cost $1.20. I feel this switch is nice to have, but optional.
25. I bought a 12V 5-Pin Automotive Relay for $3.95, and female blade connectors to connect to four of the pins. I mounted the relay on the inside of the passenger-side center console panel below where you see my wires coming out in the picture for Step 11. Sorry, I didn't take a picture of where I mounted it, because I was running out of daylight and wanted to get done.
26. I ran a white wire along side the previous three, to power my relay coil from the ignition-on power outlet at the bottom left of the front console. See Steps 13-15 for how to access the wiring behind the front console.
Well with the manual sensor disable switch and the relay, this is no longer something that is "very easy to wire into the existing OEM alarm system", as I originally stated in my opening paragraph (a statement which has since been edited out). The relay however is something that I feel is necessary, and the manual sensor disable switch is something nice to have. Below is a wiring diagram showing how I connected everything together.
txjeeplover wired his relay a little differently, but would ultimately accomplish the same thing. See Post #24 (Thanks again txjeeplover, for your help with this write-up!).
8/25/10 Addendum:
See jmat1980's write-up for addional ideas. Nice job jmat1980!
Parts and Supplies Needed:
DEI 508D Any Car Alarm Proximity Radar Motion Sensor
4" strip of good quality self-adhesive velcro
3' of 20 gauge black wire
3' of 20 gauge red wire
3' of 20 gauge white wire
4' of 20 gauge blue wire
Solder
6" of 1/16" or 3/32" diameter heatshrink tubing
4' of 1/4" diameter split loom tubing
4 18-22 gauge wire taps
12V 5-pin automotive relay
4 female blade connectors
Small SPST switch (optional)
6-10 small zip-ties (optional)
Tools Needed:
T20 Torx driver
T30 Torx driver
Soldering iron
Socket wrench
6" socket extension
7mm socket
Small, 1" wide pry bar, chisel or putty knife
Mini flathead screw driver
Connector crimping tool
1. I purchased the DEI 508D Any Car Alarm Proximity Radar Motion Sensor, sold by AudioSource, at Amazon-dot-com for $35.85.
2. This is what comes in package: sensor, wiring harness and instructions.
The motion sensor is best installed somewhere central within the vehicle, so I figured somewhere in the center console area would be great. So I proceeded to disassemble the center console to find a place to install the motion sensor.
3. This step isn't absolutely necessary, however it's easier working with the center console door removed and out of the way. Using a T20 Torx driver, remove the four screws attaching the center console door hinge to the center console. Once you remove the door and take a look at it, feel free to curse Chrysler for wasting all that potential storage space on a fat a$$ center console door.
4. Move the driver's seat all the way forward, and using a T20 Torx driver, remove the four small screws at the four corners of the driver-side side panel of the center console. Using a T30 Torx driver, remove the one larger screw on the bottom of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side.
5. This step is optional, but you might find it easier to work with the rear cup holder removed. Pull the console side panels outward a bit and unlatch the side clips holding rear cup holder in place.
6. The center console rear panel can be removed the same way that the rear cup holder was removed. This is optional, but depending on your setup and your specific installation, you may want to remove this.
7. Fully remove the center console insert by lifting up and pulling outward the side panels while wiggling the center console insert out the back.
Note: If you have a 4-door model with electronic windows, it won't be as easy to remove the center console insert. Please see dizk's post #15.
8. I found that the DEI 508D sensor fit nicely in front of the center console insert, just below the top lip. I have a 2-door JK. If you have a 4-door, perhaps mounting the sensor towards the back of the center console would position it more centrally. I used a strip of 3M self-adhesive velcro to stick the sensor here. I suggest using velcro so that you can easily remove and reattach the sensor when making sensitivity adjustments.
hansen65 installed his sensor in the center console door/arm rest, which is a great location especially for the 4-door JK's. See hansen65's post # 45.
9. I snapped the center console insert back in place to make sure that it fits. You can see the LED lights of the sensor through the hole where the center console door latches to.
With the sensor in place, now it's time to wire it into the OEM alarm system.
There are four wires in the wiring harness that comes with the sensor.
Red: (+)12V constant fused
Black: (-) chassis ground
Green: (-) First-stage Warn-Away output
Blue: (-) Second-stage trigger output
I'm not using the green wire for the first stage warning. Only the second stage trigger is used. To trigger the alarm from the motion sensor, I tapped into the wire that triggers the OEM alarm system when the tail gate is opened. For constant power, I tapped into the wires connected to the constant power outlet on the bottom right of the front console. Since the motion sensor doesn't require much current, I don't think I have to worry about overloading this circuit.
10. I ran three wires along the passenger side of the center console to my motion sensor. I would have wanted to use a blue wire instead of the green one, but the electronics store I went to didn't have blue in stock. I zip-tied the three wires together about every 12" just to keep it neat, then wrapped them in split loom tubing.
11. I snipped off about a foot length of the wires on the DEI 508D wiring harness, and soldered the wiring harness wires to the wires that I ran along the right side of the center console. Only a few inches of the wiring harness wires is really needed, but I wanted to have extra length in case I screwed up and needed to redo any soldering. Again, I'm not using the green wire from the sensor's wiring harness. The solder points were covered with heatshrink tubing. I also covered up the end of the unused green wire with heatshrink tubing. hansen65 found that the DEI 508D wiring harness was long enough to reach all the way to the front console, so you might want to do that instead of running your own wires along the center console. See hansen65's post # 45.
12. I bundled up and zip-tied the extra wire, then connected the wiring harness to the sensor.
Now that the motion sensor is wired in, we need to connect the other ends of those wires. The red and black wires will tap into the constant power outlet on the bottom right of the front console. The front console will need to be pulled apart in order to gain access to the wires that we'll be tapping into.
13. Remove the bottom panel of the front console. Start by using a small pry bar, chisel or putty knike, and pry away the top edge of this bottom panel. There are two snaps on the top edge to pop out. Once these two snaps are popped out, you can lift the panel off.
14. With the bottom panel of the front console removed, you can now access the two bottom screws holding the front console main panel in place. Use a 7mm socket and a 6" socket extension to remove these screws.
15. With the bottom screws removed, carefully pull away the front console panel starting from the bottom. There are three or four snaps on both sides to pop out.
16. I tapped into the red and black wires that provide constant power to the power outlet on the bottom right of the front panel.
17. Unplug the wiring harness connected to the back of the power outlet. Press in the bottom of the black connector, and pull it away from the grey connector. Tap into these two red and black wires, and connect to the red and black wires from the sensor via the wires that were run along the right side of the center console.
18. The blue trigger wire from the motion sensor will be connected to the wire that triggers the tail gate opening, which can be found to the right of where the front passenger's right foot would be. To orient yourself with this picture, behind the bunch of black-with-white-stripe wires at the top-right, is the connector where the passenger side door wiring harness would plug into. The tail gate trigger wire is the purple wire that I separated out from the big bunch of various-colored wires. Tap into this purple wire, and connect back to the blue wire on the motion sensor wiring harness via the the wires that were run along the right side of the center console.
Note: Your setup may be different. Please see dizk's post #15 (thanks dizk for helping this write-up!).
19. Reassemble the front (not center) console panels.
20. Now it's time to calibrate the motion sensor. Snap the center console insert back into place, place the center console rear panel back in place, and put the center console door back on top of the center console insert, but NO NOT REPLACE ANY OF THE CENTER CONSOLE SCREWS YET.
21. Arm your alarm system, wait for the red blinking light on the dashboard to change from fast blinking to slow blinking (I think this takes about 15 seconds), then wait another 4 seconds, and test the motion sensor by slowly approaching then entering your Jeep until the alarm is triggered.
22. Remove the center console insert again, and using a mini flathead screw driver, adjust the motion sensor's sensitivity accordingly. Only adjust the left adjustment screw, as shown in the picture. Turning clockwise increases sensitivity.
Repeat from Step 20 until you're satisfied with the sensor's sensitivity. Be sure that the motion sensor's sensitivity is adjusted just right before putting the center console all back together and replacing all the screws, because it's a big time-consuming hassle to disassemble and reassemble the center console again later to make further sensitivity adjustments.
23. Once your motion sensor's sensitivity is adjusted, put the center console back together fully and replace all the screws.
That's it! Now you can have a little more peace of mind when leaving your topless doorless Jeep unattended.
Edit: There's a significant downside to this setup however, which I found out the first time I took the Jeep for a spin after installing this sensor. Since the sensor's trigger taps into the tail gate's trigger, as you're driving around and someone inside the Jeep moves around, the dashboard will say "gate", as though the tail gate has opened, and you may hear a beep. But to make things worse, the dome light will also come on. You can keep the dome light from coming on by manually turning it off using the control on the steering column, but when you do that, the dashboard lumination is at it's dimmest setting when your headlights are on, which makes things difficult to see at times. And then you'll still need to put up with the beep and the dashboard "gate" indicator coming on. Just be aware of this before doing this mod, then decide for yourself if the benefit will outweigh the inconvenience. And if you do this mod, then decide that you don't want to hassle with it, then just unplug the wiring harness from the sensor, and you're back to where you were before doing the mod. I'm thinking I'll install a switch inside the center console to quickly and easily enable or disable the sensor at will, particularly in the winter when the hard top and doors are back on.
Stay Tuned! I'll be updating this write-up after I install the manual sensor disable switch that I mentioned above, and the 5-pin relay that txjeeplover suggested in Post #7 (Thanks for the tip txjeeplover!).
Update: I installed the manual sensor disable switch and the 5-pin relay. Here's how I did it.
24. I wired the manual sensor disable switch inline with the power source to the motion sensor, and mounted the switch inside the center console. This is a simple, small SPST switch that was labeled as an "alarm switch", and cost $1.20. I feel this switch is nice to have, but optional.
25. I bought a 12V 5-Pin Automotive Relay for $3.95, and female blade connectors to connect to four of the pins. I mounted the relay on the inside of the passenger-side center console panel below where you see my wires coming out in the picture for Step 11. Sorry, I didn't take a picture of where I mounted it, because I was running out of daylight and wanted to get done.
26. I ran a white wire along side the previous three, to power my relay coil from the ignition-on power outlet at the bottom left of the front console. See Steps 13-15 for how to access the wiring behind the front console.
Well with the manual sensor disable switch and the relay, this is no longer something that is "very easy to wire into the existing OEM alarm system", as I originally stated in my opening paragraph (a statement which has since been edited out). The relay however is something that I feel is necessary, and the manual sensor disable switch is something nice to have. Below is a wiring diagram showing how I connected everything together.
txjeeplover wired his relay a little differently, but would ultimately accomplish the same thing. See Post #24 (Thanks again txjeeplover, for your help with this write-up!).
8/25/10 Addendum:
See jmat1980's write-up for addional ideas. Nice job jmat1980!
Last edited by yomondo; 08-25-2010 at 10:13 PM.
06-12-2010, 11:12 PM
#2
JK Freak
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Arvada, CO
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Excellent. I actually have one of these sensors sitting in my garage that I put in my TJ. I haven't used the thing for probably 6 years but didn't want to install an aftermarket in my JK and now I have a use for it. The simple, well thought out and illustrated ideas like this one are what make this site so great.
Thanks!
Thanks!
06-14-2010, 08:09 PM
#7
JK Enthusiast
I really like your write-up and I think installing a 5 prong auto relay could resolve your issue with the false alarm while driving. You could wire the relay so that when ignition current (any switched source that is on only when the ignition is on) is present, the circuit is open and the signal to the oem gate wire doesn't get there. Then when the ignition current is gone, the circuit closes and your the proximity module is allowed to send a signal to the oem gate wire. That would ultimately make this setup a perfect addition to the factory alarm.
BTW, if you have remote start, you have to be careful to find a switched source that's active with remote start and ignition start. After trial and error, I Eventually I found an unused spot in the fuse block that worked.
BTW, if you have remote start, you have to be careful to find a switched source that's active with remote start and ignition start. After trial and error, I Eventually I found an unused spot in the fuse block that worked.
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06-14-2010, 08:15 PM
#8
JK Enthusiast
Oh and the velcro is a wise addition but I worry about the adhesive backing. I've used velcro under the dash before and after a few 90 plus days, the adhesive fails and the item falls down.
06-14-2010, 08:30 PM
#9
JK Freak
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I really like your write-up and I think installing a 5 prong auto relay could resolve your issue with the false alarm while driving. You could wire the relay so that when ignition current (any switched source that is on only when the ignition is on) is present, the circuit is open and the signal to the oem gate wire doesn't get there. Then when the ignition current is gone, the circuit closes and your the proximity module is allowed to send a signal to the oem gate wire. That would ultimately make this setup a perfect addition to the factory alarm.
BTW, if you have remote start, you have to be careful to find a switched source that's active with remote start and ignition start. After trial and error, I Eventually I found an unused spot in the fuse block that worked.
BTW, if you have remote start, you have to be careful to find a switched source that's active with remote start and ignition start. After trial and error, I Eventually I found an unused spot in the fuse block that worked.
Yah, some of the self-adhesive stuff is pretty weak. I've had success with the 3M commercial grade self-adhesive velcro though. I've had some on my front console for over a year to hold my handheld GPS unit, and so far it's not peeling off at all.
Last edited by yomondo; 06-15-2010 at 08:13 AM.
