happysailn

Same issue as most, lost clutch, leak under jeep, pulled slave and disassembled. Found plastic rod tip missing and torn piston seal. Ordered new cylinder and when I tried to install, I met no resistance when inserting into the bell housing. Shouldn't I have met the throw out bearing fork before I bottomed out against the housing? The piston/rod in the cylinder is fully extended when installed, right? My thinking is that it should need to compress somewhat in order to actuate the throwout bearing. Any insight?

Mark Doiron

Yes, there should be pressure to seat the slave cylinder. Are you sure you didn't lose the hydraulic line O-ring? It is easily overlooked. It is proprietary, so you'll need to find it or buy a new hydraulic line, if you lost it--O-ring not sold separately.

happysailn

Thanks Mark. I am not talking about the hydraulic pressure in the clutch system, I am speaking of the connection of the end of the slave push rod with the throw out bearing fork. I would think that it would engage that connection a half inch or so before the slave mates with the bell housing.

Mark Doiron

Yes, that's what I thought you were asking. I recall having to push mine down a little to get it to seat. But, I've had it out several times and only disconnected the hydraulic line once--I was greasing the end of it trying to stop that annoying creak you might have when pressing in on the clutch (it didn't work, LOL). So, it could be related to whether you maintained good hydraulic pressure or need to bleed. If you need to bleed or have forgotten that O-ring, then you might not have the pressure you're looking for. If you forgot that O-ring, you'll learn about it soon enough: You'll be spraying brake fluid all over the transmission.

happysailn

Thanks Mark. I did move the o-ring to the new slave, that part is fine. The slave is fully extended due to the internal spring. It does not feel like it's making contact with anything inside the bell housing when I install. The part you are greasing is the part that doesn't seem to be touching anything when I install. Guess I'll plan to pull the tranny on my next off day to investigate further.
Thanks again.

jeepmojo

the fork can loose some type of spring , not sure if its true or not I don't really know and then dosent contact with the slave plunger end I used a ( crown ) noise went away , creek.

re route that ac drain pipe . It dumps condensation water on the slave cylinder and water gets in the slave and washes the grease off the the end I think and then tranny issues arise

GrBeast001

Any luck? I am currently dealing with the same issue...busted slave so i replaced it and i have no pressure inside the bell housing. also it doesn't seem that i am bleeding it correctly no matter how much i bleed it i get not pressure in the clutch pedal. Any insight on what happen with yours would be great.

Thanks!

jeepmojo

bleeding the lines can be a total nitemare for the average person / leave it to experts that do it all the time and even they have troubles at times

only took ten min at most where I took mine he said he got lucky though . That it took 6 hours to get some right before. and they only work on jeeps

2climbbig

Funny, I just fixed mine. The o ring was my first issue and pressure was the second issue,. Here is what I did. I have a vacume pump from harbor fright. I filled the brake resouvar then bleed the slave cylinder using the pump. After that, I had my wife press on it while I looked for bubbles. I really like that pump. It cheap and it works.

I first had her pump the pedal while I bleed, but that was just not doing much. Perhaps I was not being patient enough. The pump works better then just pressing on the pedal.

Mark Doiron

I've broken that hydraulic connection three times now. First time I was on the road returning from Mojave Trail passing though nowhere in Oregon (long story, but was taking the long way back to Oklahoma, LOL). Slave started dumping fluid into the bell housing and lost clutch, literally--quite literally--as I arrived at the dealership, 25 feet from where you stop to have them write up the ticket. Pendleton, OR. Nowhere. Anyway, they had to bring part in from Portland and changed it next morning. Could not get it to completely bleed. Mechanic knew I was antsy to get back on the road home, so told me that it should clear up as I drove it. He was right. Within 30 minutes of Interstate driving (IOW, not much shifting) I had my normal pedal back.

Second time was in a futile attempt to fix the creaking pedal by replacing the slave cylinder. Replacement went quickly, except for that infernal O-ring, which landed on the garage floor and took off at a 323° bearing at approximately 99% the speed of light. After searching for 45 minutes finally found it. Anyway, put back together and friend helped me bleed and everything went exactly as expected--bled easily and got full pressure.

Third time was when I replaced the master cylinder. Put it all back together and had called a friend to come over after work and help me bleed. But, meanwhile, had some clutch pressure so I took the Jeep for a test drive. During that short test drive the pedal restored itself and it's been fine ever since.

Not saying that the clutch is self-bleeding. But am saying that if you have enough pedal to drive it, go ahead and do so and see if the pedal doesn't improve over a few minutes of time. You might be surprised.