Rednroll

I would love to see the pictures showing that the actuator was actually the problem.

Actuator change and multiple flushes and then fixed, doesn't exactly determine that the actuator was the problem.

It could have been due to sludge build up, since that was visually seen, where the flush helped clear that out. It could have been air in the system, where the flush and refill could have fixed that.

I've been having heater problems as well and haven't visually confirmed my actuator door is working properly yet, but if you spin the temp dial back and forth really quick, you can hear the actuator door open and close shut. Therefore it "sounds" like mine is working.

wvhiker

Sorry it has taken me a while to reply to you guys. Between virus, work on the road, and a cold suffice it to say January wasn’t my month.
The blend door actuator is on the driver’s side of the tunnel. It is in a not- friendly location and I advise to see if it works before attempting replacement. This can be done by removing the cover panel, steel plate, a control module? and then by looking up and to the right with a flash light. Once in position (and after turning the ignition on), you can turn the temperature knob to hot then cold. You can see the white groove of the blend door go back and forth. This is not easy and replacement is harder, mainly made difficult by the floor vent duct. See pictures here with a few notes on them.
Remove Panel.



10 mm bolts I believe.


This module has to be removed. Have a long extension on your ratchet to reach one of them and also remove the connectors. The tape is where I marked one of them.



You should be able to hear the actuator work also. Two screws hold this in.



If you need to replace this, have small hands and patience. You will hate the floor vent duct. I put the existing arm off of the old unit onto the new unit, then turned the ignition on and moved the temperature knob until it was centered then turn the jeep off. You will have to slide it in place while holding the blend door up some to get the pin in it. Took me a couple of tries but really wasn’t that hard. Replace everything opposite of removal. Your check engine light will be on due to the module removal. I cleared the code with a scanner.
Anything else let me know.

wvhiker

Yeah I jumped the gun on this replacement first instead of the flush and am now determined the flush fixed the heat. I still find it odd that the sludge build- up in the heater core stopped heat to one side of the jeep. That's why I went with the actuator replacement first. In about another month I am going to do another flush. Just a note that there are two blend door actuators in these jeeps; The one I replaced on the driver's tunnel side and one behind the glove box.

SpartanToJo

I have an '08 JKUR with over 220,000 miles. I have had the cold drivers side issue for five years. Every Fall, just before the snow flies, I do a thorough flush of the radiator and the heater core. It does not solve the problem completely, but it does make the Jeep driveable for the Michigan winter. The HotHead headliners help a bit too.

Rednroll

Thanks for posting all that information. I've been dealing with a similar heater related problem. On my tudo diagnostic list is to inspect the driver side actuator is functioning properly or not. Like mentioned previously, I spin my temp control back and forth and I can hear the actuator door open and close but I do still need to do a visual confirmation inspection check to be sure.

I wasn't aware of that module that also needed to be removed to be able to see the actuator, so I really appreciate you showing what I'm getting myself into for that visual inspection before I start. I have a HF snake camera which has an LED light on the end. I'm hoping I can use that to just go in through the center driver side vent to be able to inspect if the door is opening and closing properly instead. It's been cold out and my heater hasn't been working.....so I've been procrastinating working on it. I hate working in the cold.

Do you think I could use something like this, to be able to do the same kind of visual inspection by going through the vent with the snake to be able to inspect that driver side actuator is working properly instead of taking all that dash area apart?

wvhiker

I honestly don't know. i don't have one so I went my original route. Good Luck.