Need help. Stuck on side of the road
#12
JK Freak
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If its your E-brake, it should only affect the rears. And don't be confused by all four rotors being hot. Brake pads are constantly in slight contact with all the rotors. I'm hoping for your sake it was just one of those electrical gremlins and when you go to drive it tomorrow it works perfect. If not,, I'm guessing it will be a problem with your ABS system/sensors.
#13
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2013
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As others have said, brake rotors get warm regardless of what you are doing. I had a very similar issue a few months back. Driving fine and all of a sudden it felt like my brakes were being pressed and the same dash lights lit up. Turned out to be a bad speed sensor. Not sure if this is your only problem, but sounds a lot like what I went through.
#15
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Thank you. I think you guys are right. Is there anyway to pull a fuse or something in order to turn this off so I can drive it to the shop?
Otherwise I'm gonna have to flatbed it.
Otherwise I'm gonna have to flatbed it.
#16
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
So now that I can work in the light I think it might actually be locked up E-Brake.
If it were a bad wheel speed sensor I think the vehicle would not throw trouble codes on the dash until I started driving it a bit. The dash lights up as soon as I start the vehicle.
Doesn't anyone know if this theory is correct?
If it were a bad wheel speed sensor I think the vehicle would not throw trouble codes on the dash until I started driving it a bit. The dash lights up as soon as I start the vehicle.
Doesn't anyone know if this theory is correct?
#17
JK Jedi
So now that I can work in the light I think it might actually be locked up E-Brake. If it were a bad wheel speed sensor I think the vehicle would not throw trouble codes on the dash until I started driving it a bit. The dash lights up as soon as I start the vehicle. Doesn't anyone know if this theory is correct?
I would lift and put it in neutral see what wheels have issues turning
#18
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the only way to know if it's the e-brake is to get the rear in the air and see if the wheels are free in Neutral. Make sure to block the front wheels while doing this. If the rear is free then it is likely that a speed sensor is bad and the electronic traction control is applying the other brakes in the system because it thinks you are loosing control of the vehicle. If you find it isn't a stuck e-brake then I would try to disable the traction control and see if you can drive it, otherwise I'd call a tow truck to avoid any further damage.
#19
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Well I had a free tow so I took it to a local shop rather than the dealer.
If it is the ebrake I am gonna have him change out the rear pads and rotors. I have autozone ceramic pads with lifetime warranty but factory rotors.
Anyone with any advice on brand of rotor?
If it is the ebrake I am gonna have him change out the rear pads and rotors. I have autozone ceramic pads with lifetime warranty but factory rotors.
Anyone with any advice on brand of rotor?
#20
JK Super Freak
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I'm happy with my power stop slotted and drilled rear rotors.
If it turns out to be e brake have who ever works on your jeep verify the mechanical linkage is not seized up..this was the case of my one hot rear wheel case.
Follow the e cable into the back plate on the other side is were the cable meets a lever, all mine needed was a shot of PB blaster....done.
If it turns out to be e brake have who ever works on your jeep verify the mechanical linkage is not seized up..this was the case of my one hot rear wheel case.
Follow the e cable into the back plate on the other side is were the cable meets a lever, all mine needed was a shot of PB blaster....done.