I need some help. I have found out that the driver side rear brake bottom caliper pin was seized. I have been smelling it for a few days now. I went to replace the pins but the seized one broke off. I ended up buying the whole assembly bracket and replaced it. When I placed the piston assembly back on it was really tight. Should I have backed off the piston before re-attaching it? I can tell you that the smell is still there and the son of a gun gets hot! Only the rear driver side.

 

Yup, just pop it back off and use a C clamp to push the piston back in and double check the pads for any damage before re-installing. They adjust themselves as the pads wear out and need to be compressed.

 

Gonna deal with the odour tonight and try "pushing" the piston inn tomorrow morning. I really had to "shove" it on after I replaced the bracket. When I called the dealership to see if they had the caliper in stock, the guy suggested I try that first. So far it has only cost me 70 bucks (from a dealership too) for the parts.

 

Update.....
Had it all apart this morning and managed to puch in the piston on the caliper. Pressed on the brake pedal and found that the piston would push out but would not retract causing the pads to have more than normal pressure against the rotor. Culprit? I think so. Ordered the new caliper assembly and will have to borrow my wifes Compass to go to work in.
Does anyone have any suggestions for changing the caliper? I figure if I open the bleeder nut and press on the brake pedal to let the fluid in and get the air out of the new caliper assembly I should be ok. Does that sound right?

 

Picked up the caliper assembly and put it on this morning. Tested it out. Works great!
Drove to work (25kms) no heat, no smell.

 

Not sure if my 50 cents is too late....I did my rear break pads last year @ 50K...and as a rule of thumb I always ensure a new application of calipar pin lube on each pin. Don't need much, just enough to keep them moving.

Permatex Ultra Slick Synthetic Brake Lubricant #22063. I think less them $10 at CTC. I use a thin coat on the backs of the pads were the mate with the piston. Nice and quite, no issues.

 

Good points for sure. I did my brake pads last summer and DID NOT lube the sliding pins. Have to think that was the original problem, which then caused the caliper piston to seize becuase it was overheating. At any rate, it is fixed and have to say I love how easy Jeep's are to work on. The whole thing cost me $150 bucks (thats for the caliper, slider pin bracket and a spare set of slider pins) and I think thats still cheaper then what I would've paid a the shop. Now if I can only figure out how to weld so I can build some bumpers, I'll be golden