OK....I have some questions. (Actually a lot)
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
OK....I have some questions. (Actually a lot)
Everyone, bear with the mechanically challenged.
Here are my questions.
What do wheel spacers do?
If you get a weld in roll cage, can you still use the soft/hard top?
If you get a lift with larger tires, does that mean you need stronger axles?
Whats the difference; dana 30, 35, 40, 44, 60?
How come you can only use specific lifts depending on you axle?
What are u-joints?
What's the reason for starting off witha small lift, then getting a larger one? Why no begin with the larger lift?
Say I wanted to get a roof rack, along with a tire rack. Can both of those be easily removed/re-attached based on wheather I need or don't need them later?
How can you have a stock transfer case along with an aftermarket T-case?
Gearing. Do you just open up the diff's and change out the gears, or is there more involved?
Well I think that's all....for now.
Here are my questions.
What do wheel spacers do?
If you get a weld in roll cage, can you still use the soft/hard top?
If you get a lift with larger tires, does that mean you need stronger axles?
Whats the difference; dana 30, 35, 40, 44, 60?
How come you can only use specific lifts depending on you axle?
What are u-joints?
What's the reason for starting off witha small lift, then getting a larger one? Why no begin with the larger lift?
Say I wanted to get a roof rack, along with a tire rack. Can both of those be easily removed/re-attached based on wheather I need or don't need them later?
How can you have a stock transfer case along with an aftermarket T-case?
Gearing. Do you just open up the diff's and change out the gears, or is there more involved?
Well I think that's all....for now.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: N. Lanc. PA
Wheel spacers push out the mounting surface of your axles, and could also change the the bolt pattern for the wheel you plan on using. You do this if you get wider tires, ie: going from 10.5" tire to a 12.5" tire. It decreases the chances of your new tires rubbing body parts, suspension parts, or in some cases your frame when the wheels are fully turned.
Most aftermarket weld in roll cages are designed to still allow you to have a fully functional softop and hardtop, check with the manufacturer before ordering. Or if you plan on building your own, follow the lines of the factory cage.
Depends how large you go. common rule among most jeepers is, the dana 30/35 axle combo can handle up to 33" tires, dana 30/44 and 44/44(pre 2007 model year Jeeps) combo can handle up to 35" (37+" for 2007)tires. Anything bigger then 35" tires require 1/2 ton or greater truck axles like the dana 60. Using aftermarket chromoly shafts will increase any axle strength but they'll still have limitations. Axle carnage also has to do with driving styles. A heavy foot will always find the weaknesses of a smaller axle. Lockers can also be the nemisis of weak axles.
The difference between axles includes many things: the size of the axle housing, size of the defferential, size of ring and pinions, the number of splines on the shafts, and the diameter of the shafts. The larger the number after dana the bigger everything listed is, except for the dana 44 front put in pre-2007 rubicons. They have about the same strenght as a front dana 30. The diff covers are also different but that usually doesn't have a bearing on strength.
Lifts usually not axle dependent. One size usually fits all. The only kits that are axle specific are truss systems. In those cases you need certain truss to match up with the different size axle tubes, and clear the different size diffs.
U-joints or Universal Joints are the connection point from your axle shaft to your hub. They are also use to connect you drive shafts to your differential.
Starting off small is a excellent way to learn how to wheel. When your small your worried about carnage so you chose your line carefully. You learn when to give it gas, when to brake, when to give it gas and break, when to call it quits and back yourself out of a bad situation. You might get stuck every once in while, but pick up a lesson in recovery. I've seen it first hand on the trail. See Dick buy Jeep, See Dick build big Jeep with 37" mudders, See Dick roll Jeep. A low center of gravity isn't always a bad thing.
The ease of use of aftermarket roof and tire racks depends on the manufacturer or the craftness of the Jeep owner.
I haven't seen a dual transfer case set-up. As far as I know the aftermarket transfer case: ie. the Atlas, is a replacement for the stock TC.
The TV shows make it look that easy, and sometimes it is if you can use the factory shims. I know there's a measurement that needs to be in a certain tolerance but not sure what that would be. I plan on leaving the re-gearing on the JK when it shows up to the professions, but I've know a number of people have done it themselves with success.
Hope most of this makes sense and helps.
Most aftermarket weld in roll cages are designed to still allow you to have a fully functional softop and hardtop, check with the manufacturer before ordering. Or if you plan on building your own, follow the lines of the factory cage.
Depends how large you go. common rule among most jeepers is, the dana 30/35 axle combo can handle up to 33" tires, dana 30/44 and 44/44(pre 2007 model year Jeeps) combo can handle up to 35" (37+" for 2007)tires. Anything bigger then 35" tires require 1/2 ton or greater truck axles like the dana 60. Using aftermarket chromoly shafts will increase any axle strength but they'll still have limitations. Axle carnage also has to do with driving styles. A heavy foot will always find the weaknesses of a smaller axle. Lockers can also be the nemisis of weak axles.
The difference between axles includes many things: the size of the axle housing, size of the defferential, size of ring and pinions, the number of splines on the shafts, and the diameter of the shafts. The larger the number after dana the bigger everything listed is, except for the dana 44 front put in pre-2007 rubicons. They have about the same strenght as a front dana 30. The diff covers are also different but that usually doesn't have a bearing on strength.
Lifts usually not axle dependent. One size usually fits all. The only kits that are axle specific are truss systems. In those cases you need certain truss to match up with the different size axle tubes, and clear the different size diffs.
U-joints or Universal Joints are the connection point from your axle shaft to your hub. They are also use to connect you drive shafts to your differential.
Starting off small is a excellent way to learn how to wheel. When your small your worried about carnage so you chose your line carefully. You learn when to give it gas, when to brake, when to give it gas and break, when to call it quits and back yourself out of a bad situation. You might get stuck every once in while, but pick up a lesson in recovery. I've seen it first hand on the trail. See Dick buy Jeep, See Dick build big Jeep with 37" mudders, See Dick roll Jeep. A low center of gravity isn't always a bad thing.
The ease of use of aftermarket roof and tire racks depends on the manufacturer or the craftness of the Jeep owner.
I haven't seen a dual transfer case set-up. As far as I know the aftermarket transfer case: ie. the Atlas, is a replacement for the stock TC.
The TV shows make it look that easy, and sometimes it is if you can use the factory shims. I know there's a measurement that needs to be in a certain tolerance but not sure what that would be. I plan on leaving the re-gearing on the JK when it shows up to the professions, but I've know a number of people have done it themselves with success.
Hope most of this makes sense and helps.
Sponsoring Vendor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 677
Likes: 4
From: West Chester, PA
I do believe that some of your questions could be answered by using the Quadratec Knowledge Center. Check it out. Lots of good stuff for Jeepers.
