Got the VHF side wired up tonight and the radio mounted.

I made a contact on 40 meter CW with the engine off - no problems. Went for a ride and tried receive on 40 meter CW and 2 meter FM (didn't transmit yet... will do that another day). I was disappointed at the amount of ignition noise, but keep in mind I'm used to a diesel that had NO ignition noise. The radio is connected directly to the battery with no additional filtering.

I've got a 500 Hz CW filter on the 706, and the rig also comes with a noise blanker and DSP noise reduction at various levels. Engaging the noise blanker got rid of most of the ignition noise -- VERY effective. Engaging the 500 Hz CW filter also helped, as did DSP noise reduction. I'm still trying to figure out which combination of NB/NR/filter works best. I think it really depends a lot on the received signal itself. But the noise blanker seems to be the most effective tool in the ignition noise toolkit.

For a radio mounting location I considered under the seat, and in the rear well in the cargo compartment. Under the seat it could get a little dirty/dusty and should I ever get waterlogged, it would be bad news. For the cargo well, I'd be sacrificing very useful space (I keep a bottle jack, tools, etc. there), and it also is well insulated with no ventilation -- bad news for a radio that already gets hot on receive only.

Took another look around this afternoon and found the perfect spot: On the rear window of the hardtop, there are two pistons that hold it open. At the base of these pistons is a bracket secured through the hardtop with three bolts. Two of the bolts line up PERFECTLY with the radio's (included) mounting bracket. I ditched one bolt and affixed the radio bracket to the piston bracket. Piston function is fully restored and radio mounts with no holes drilled. It also keeps the radio tucked mostly out of sight, level with the bottom of the hardtop; wires/cables can be stashed in the corner; doesn't interfere with cargo; keeps transmitter as far away from engine/electronics as possible; etc. It's so elegant it's hard to believe.

What's left?

- transmitter test - will it interfere with the jeep's electronics?

- clean up routing of cables, and put a flexible plastic jacket around the power leads

- install display/control unit on dash (Daystar dash panel arrives tomorrow)

- photos, of course! Coming soon...

 

There is another thread here about ignition noise.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?126803

What bonding have you done?

1. Doors to kick panels.
2. Tailgate to frame.
3. Engine to fender.
4. Exhast to frame under drivers door and exhaust tip to frame.
5. Bumper (Aftermarket steel) to frame on both side.
6. Transfer case to frame.

There are probably more that I did but I can't remember. Visit www.k0bg.com. If you are serious about mobile HF ops, that is required reading. TONS of great info!

As far as interference goes some of us found that 14.275 at power will cause chimes, dash lights, my tach dropped to 0 at 70 MPH, etc. That seems to be a magical freq in the JK.

 

Funny you mention it -- after I posted I realized I had to add "need to do bonding" to the list. None yet. I have to read up on techniques and separate myth from truth before I do too much with it. Will definitely check out k0bg site, thanks. I'd consider myself a casual mobile op, not too serious about it -- most of my interest is in receiving/scanning while driving, not transmitting. 20 m won't be an issue as I really do only 40 meters (so far...) but good to know I should avoid 14.275, thanks

 

Hi I see what the difference between the G and non G model I am just wondering if I will miss what the G has if I get a non G basically I am wondering about the 400-470 MHz that the non G doesn't get. Also what does bonding mean. Is that just grounding? I am probley going to get the 706Mk11 for $490.00, does that sound like a fair price or would I be better off waiting and gettng a new 706Mk11G? I could sure use some input, thanks, Mike

 

If you haven't seen it already, here is a description of the differences between the MkII and the MkIIG:

http://www.universal-radio.com/CATAL...f/3450new.html

It says:

Expands to include the 430 MHz band with 20 watts RF
Increases 2 meter RF output to 50 watts
Improved C/N
0.5 PPM with optional high stability crystal
Tone squelch standard
Tone scan
duplex and auto repeater feature
Optional carry handle
Improved receive audio
Backlit keys
SWR graphic display
DSP even works even in FM mode

Personally the most useful things to me are SWR meter and backlit keys. Not sure if this means there's no SWR meter in the non-G... it might just mean there isn't a graphical one. But it really depends on what modes you use etc... and your budget. Also consider the non-G might have been through hell and back, being a mobile.. but if it's in decent shape, might be a good buy. I think 490 is on the high side (there was one listed recently on the email lists, maybe 2 weeks ago, for $350). Worth the additional $ for you to spend say $625 on a used G model? Who knows... Personally I'd save a little longer to spend a little more on the more recent radio, for peace of mind and all features, but that's not to say $350 to $400 isn't a great deal for a good non-G model.

I never use the 70 cm band on mine so if I were smart I would have bought a used non-G. But I'm not, and bought a new 706 But I love it. Not saying this is the best approach... Maybe just go for the middle of the road and buy a used 706 MkIIG (just make sure it isn't a beater). Saves $ over new, and you get all the features (and more recent build, presumable a little more reliable?) of the latest (and final) generation.

As for bonding, from what I understand, it's not necessarily grounding, but rather, well, here, check this out...

http://www.k0bg.com/bonding.html

 

When you get all the bonding done and ferrite chokes added you can transmit even on 20M

But bonding, bonding & more bonding is necessary.

 

installing a 706 and have similar ingressed RFI on 20M and 17M, with higher power. >70W. where did you install the ferrite chokes? been reading k0bg's site and has alot of info... a lot to take in... sounds like a lot to do to get all the RFI gone..
another question what cable (RG##) did you use to run your HF antenna...
thanks
Mike

 

Power direct from battery; ran across firewall and thru gromet on driver side where wiper hose goes to rear window; down small path inside fender; under door trim to radio body under driver seat.

Control head cable routed along center cons. and up to lido mount on top of dash w/ cable routed behind dash stuff to left of Jeep radio.

External speaker mounted to roll cage upright behind driver. Velcro straps.

HF and VHF/UHF coax routed under carpet to rear of Wrangler Sport by hinges.

Diamond K-400 mount on right side of door just under top hinge w/mostly 20M hamstick.
(make sure HF mount set screws break thru paint to contact bare metal)
Diamond K-400 mount on left side of door just below handle.
(Diamond Supergainer VHF/UHF antenna does not require ground)

Tested continuity from tailgate to frame and all is good. Did not look at exhaust pipe; other Crysler products I have owned already came from factory with braid ground strap attached. Hood has factory braid ground already attached. Who cares about the doors.

Very very little engine noise at any rpm, have to listen hard to hear it; what there is disappears w/NB turned on.
Rig set to 100 watts, first QSO on way home from work (Florida to Colorado), 5/6 to 5/7 report, nothing funny going on with dash lights or otherwise with the Jeep.

Mic rides in cup holder.

"Life is Good"

Well that is my installation. Took about five hours from start to almost finish. Still have to attach radio body to bottom of driver seat next weekend.

73
Art
N2QGV

 

ArtG, interesting Install. it is somewhat different. With the other stuff I have read and learned (I think ) I am thinking I may need to reroute my cable. right now it comes in from the tailgate-hinge side- up the roll bar up to the front passenger side down the window molding into the dash over to and under the center console to the radio, also under driver seat. I need to take it out of the dash and center console...more direct to the radio. wonder if that will help? it can't hurt..
although I'm still ordering the ferrites... power is routed on the passenger side through the firewall pre drilled hole and then to the center console to under the seat.

thanks for posting your install.

Mike

 

JK-jeepit

Yea, this is probably the 4th vehicle I have installed a rig in. I prefer running wiring along with the manufactur. If you look at the top of the firewall inside the engine compartment, you will see a bunch of wiring. Jeep also likes to keep wiring away from computers and other sensitive stuff. Getting the power leads down from that gromet into the interior took a lot of messing around, and two people are good to have. Not real comfortable for a 62 year old guy getting under the lower driver side dash.

If you have a little common mode on the coax, and you are running it all along the nice large metal tube roll cage, well look out. RF might couple to the roll bars ...... a real bad thing. You only need one antenna. I think by keeping the coax running along the floor board and making about a 5 to 6 turn coil just before the radio should do the trick with any common mode issues. Use all the extra coax to make the loops and a nylon tie strap to hold the loop together.

The worst vehicle I had with the rig was a 2005 PT Cruiser. The whole damn car was bonded with braid and all wiring was choaked in one way or the other. Wow, did it have ignition noise. I expected the worse from the JK, and was really surprised with the results.

I may early next year start looking at installing a Little Tarheel screwdriver in February. Have to buy something at the Orlando Hamcation. Fingers are crossed hoping for same results as the hamsticks.

73
Art