I just finished installing my Arizona Rocky Roads dual mount install with my Ham and CB cables. I had ARR drill the ham mount with a 5/8" hole to fit the ham cable UHF end. I also bought a Cooltech Gatemount dual mount that I decided not to use, but I used their bolts and spacers to get the mounts further away from the grommet on the passenger side and have a little more space for the two cables and ground wire to turn. I also used the ground wire that came with the Gatemount and made another ground jumper to ground the drivers side to the passenger side. I drilled two holes in the grommet with a 5/16" drill bit that Cooltech suggests, but when you drill the holes are not nearly as large as the bit. So I increased the bit size and ended up cutting out the ligament between the two holes to get the mini uhf cable ends wrapped with elecrical tape and the ground wire through the grommet. I forgot to silicone the grommet around the cables, but they ended up being a pretty tight fit so I doubt if it needs any silicone. I might go back later on and take a closer look at that after I finish the cable and power wire routing inside the jeep.

I scraped the paint off of the mounts on both sides where the bolts go, and on the underside of the cable mounts. I used a star lock washer under the bolt head where the ground wires are.

Turned out pretty good I think.

 

That looks factory! Very clean install

 

Looks good! Does the spare cover those two mounting posts or are they exposed?

 

the spare covers everything except for the top where the antenna connections are

 

put the spare on tonight using my hoist-a-top winch, darn thing's too heavy for this old guy to get on. the spare covers the mount well and the mounts don't touch the tire, close but no touching. i can see why the guys with the cooltech gatemounts are having a problem with the antenna touching or not clearing the tire at all. we did some swr testing at our early bronco activity a few months ago and an antenna touching a tire with steel belts doesn't work well, particularly a ham antenna.

 

of course ,the steel belts in the tire. i thought it was the rubber destroying my swr on my 2 meter antenna with the gatemount. i forgot about those steel belts inside.

 

i finished the cables inside the tailgate yesterday. the 2012 sub enclosure close to the tailgate creates some new issues that are different from posts and the project JK writeups. removing the two floor tiedown bolts lets you pull the bottom part of the enclosure out a litte and it wasn't easy to separate the clips on the front half and back half of the enclosure at the top, so i decided to use the rear tiedown bolt location for my ground wire, and not route the antenna cables and ground wire through the wire loom into the enclosure. i scraped the paint off around the bolt hole and slipped a star washer under the ground wire connector. you might use the tailgate bar mount bolts behind the enclosure for the ground too, but i thought being sure to get a good ground at the tiedown bolt was easier to get to and might be better.

one caution is that the cb cable that i used that came with my gatemount which i didn't use isn't long enough to get to my cb mounted on the center footman loop on the windshield unless i routed it along the roll bar and over the speaker bar to the front. so if you're using a pre-assembled cable you need to check that out before you go under the carpeting and then up to the windshield.

the extra cable length you need for the tailgate to fully open has to go somewhere when the tailgate is closed. my groundwire seems to do that fine except it's a 10 ga wire and it wants to bend back between the tailgate and the passenger side body when the tailgate closes. it doesn't get pinched, but i'll probably try and find a small black adhesive clip to put on the sub enclosure about halfway down in the future. the antenna cables on mine loop straight up when the tailgate closes. i'll probably put a little longer wire loom on them to be the rub point against the enclosure. but it seems to work fine. i can see now the reason for someone's post on another thread that putting the antenna cables through the tailgate will create shorts in the cable, that might happen over time as the tailgate is opened and closed many times.

in hindsight, if you removed the sub enclosure you could probably drill an oversized hole in it where the cables leave the tailgate, another one in the enclosure near the roll bar to get them out and let the cables loop inside the top of the enclosure when the tailgate closes. that means they would be sliding in and out of the enclosure when you open and close the tailgate and you wouldn't be able to see what they're doing inside the enclosure. not sure if that would be better or worse on the cables.

but overall i thnk it worked out pretty well.

 

Looks good... But why did you run the cable 'down' to the sub instead of following the gate cables 'up' and tuck under the side trim over the passenger side rear wheel well? Just curious.

 

well it was convenient since i used the ground wire that came with the gate mounts that I didn't use and that's how long it was. it does fit behind the tailgate bar without pinching so I think it will be fine. it was difficult to get the top halves of the sub enclosure separated too which would have to be done to run the ground back down behind the enclosure to where I grounded it.

but in the future i might want to change it to your suggestion, that's a good idea.

 

Why did'nt you run your coax up under the roll bar padding to the front (4 door). I did this and i have about 1 to 1 1/2' over out of 18'. Now to mount the radio....lol