Yesterday I got an SWR meter from Radioshack, hooked it up and tested my setup. On Ch40 the SWR was way too high, well over 3.0, so I twisted the antenna tip down a bit (firestik firefly tunable tip). Final readings were as follows:

Ch 1 - SWR 1.1
Ch 20 - SWR 1.2
Ch 40 - SWR 1.4

I figured that was pretty good. Of course I'm nowhere near anyone broadcasting in the area, especially at 8:30pm, but I'm optimistic it will work well on the trail this weekend. Thanks for everyone's advice and input!

Question... if I decide to relocate the CB from above the mirror to the center armrest console, I should cut the coax to fit, correct? Or just stuff the excess in a safe spot? As of now, I only have about 1.5' of extra cable, so I'll probably have 3-4 ft if I relocate closer to the rear.

 

U never want to just cut coax cable. It is specific lengths for it to work properly. Loosely tuck it away and try to avoid making a coil as that will cause more resistance.
Also another good idea is to run a separate ground wire into the jeep and ground it to the body. Mine is connected to my mount for tailgate shock to tub. U could also run it to the frame.

 

Ok thanks for the heads up... NO cutting coax. Why do I need to run a ground when my SWR is in good shape? The tire carrier seems to be getting a good ground as it is.

 

If it's fine then leave it alone. I was just saying that because the tailgate sometimes don't give a good ground because of the hinges.

 

Cool. My antenna isn't mounted on the tailgate, it's on my ORFAB tire carrier which (fortunate for my CB usage) does not use painted or non-metallic parts on the hinges. I did however remove some powdercoating to expose bare metal at the contact point where the fire ring touches the tire carrier.

 

It would be best to look at some other threads first and if it doesn't clear it up, start a new thread on your specific concerns.

 

Three myths in one post. In order:

1. Specific lengths are immaterial. Use as much as you need to get from the radio to the antenna, routing the coax at right angles to the vehicle's wiring harness, and have done. There is no magic specific length(s), nor is there any physical or theoretical reason why there should be.

2. Coiling the cable will not result in the cable changing its characteristic impedance, though it is unwise for different reasons.

3. When bonding body panels (NOT "grounding"), never EVER use solid wire. There are many reasons for this. Use instead braided cable. I use the braid from an old piece of coax.

Never, ever remove paint or coating. You aren't helping anything. RF ground is different than DC ground; RF ground in this application ignores paint. All you're doing is deliberately installing a place for rust to start.

 

"Ignores paint"? How do you get an RF ground without metal to metal contact?

 

DC continuity is not the same as RF continuity. If your antenna mount is securely fastened to the frame or body work of the vehicle, and the coax connector is securely fastened to the mount, nothing else is needed.

 

If you want to get totally discouraged about the possibility of ever having a mobile radio setup, read here.

Bonding

I think going nuts with your mobile CB rig is a little overkill just because they are kind of junk. You just aren't going to milk that much more out of a 4 watt radio. Hopefully you will get enough information to be able to have line of sight communication.