Here is where you should mount your CB and HAM antennas on your Jeep
07-10-2012, 10:59 AM
#101
JK Freak
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 684
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by realjeep
If you have to put it there then center load. Anything to get the important parts of the antenna away from the to chunks of metal. You may still have SWR issues unless the antenna is tunable. Note: that tunable antennas can be set to a good SWR but being sandwiched like that shortens the transmission range. Remember it all comes down to personal preference and what works best for you.
Thanks
07-13-2012, 12:58 PM
#102
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
If you are worried about getting snagged on trees and such then above the driver side tail light. Other wise on the passenger side opposite the gas filler. If on the passenger side then you can bend it over to the front for low bridges.
07-13-2012, 02:29 PM
#103
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm looking at a CB setup and I think I have everything picked out that I'm going to get except the mount. Would it be better to put a 3' antenna on a cowl mount or a 4'-5' antenna on a license plate mount like the one offered by cooltech? I realize the longer antenna on the cowl mount would probably be a better option still, but clearance is an issue because I'd rather not pull the antenna off every time I pull into the garage.
07-13-2012, 08:27 PM
#104
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Royersford, PA
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm looking at a CB setup and I think I have everything picked out that I'm going to get except the mount. Would it be better to put a 3' antenna on a cowl mount or a 4'-5' antenna on a license plate mount like the one offered by cooltech? I realize the longer antenna on the cowl mount would probably be a better option still, but clearance is an issue because I'd rather not pull the antenna off every time I pull into the garage.
07-18-2012, 05:02 AM
#105
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Meridianville Al
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Arizona RR Mount
Hello, FNG here... Would you guys mind assisting me with some info?
When you refer to an antenna being "sandwiched between the spare and gate", would this include one mounted on an Arizona mount? It seems like that would be better since it is above the tire...
Are there antennas designed to work better in the lack of a proper ground plane? (SSB-1 perhaps)
And this may be a dumb question (just got my tech), but is there any way to "fake" a better ground plane by adding material at the base of the antenna...perhaps a square steel plate?
Anyone wanna chime in with experience from that mount (Arizona)? I have heard mostly good things. Right now it is my favorite option.
I have also heard people using ferrite chokes in the installation. Is that something that is beneficial in mobiles?
Gotta admit, the antenna principles are confusing me (SWR, gain, 1/2 wave, 1/4 wave, etc...)
Thanks to everyone for sharing... I really appreciate the experience and those of you willing to enlighten others!
When you refer to an antenna being "sandwiched between the spare and gate", would this include one mounted on an Arizona mount? It seems like that would be better since it is above the tire...
Are there antennas designed to work better in the lack of a proper ground plane? (SSB-1 perhaps)
And this may be a dumb question (just got my tech), but is there any way to "fake" a better ground plane by adding material at the base of the antenna...perhaps a square steel plate?
Anyone wanna chime in with experience from that mount (Arizona)? I have heard mostly good things. Right now it is my favorite option.
I have also heard people using ferrite chokes in the installation. Is that something that is beneficial in mobiles?
Gotta admit, the antenna principles are confusing me (SWR, gain, 1/2 wave, 1/4 wave, etc...)
Thanks to everyone for sharing... I really appreciate the experience and those of you willing to enlighten others!
07-18-2012, 06:47 AM
#106
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Meridianville Al
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello, FNG here... Would you guys mind assisting me with some info?
When you refer to an antenna being "sandwiched between the spare and gate", would this include one mounted on an Arizona mount? It seems like that would be better since it is above the tire...
Are there antennas designed to work better in the lack of a proper ground plane? (SSB-1 perhaps)
And this may be a dumb question (just got my tech), but is there any way to "fake" a better ground plane by adding material at the base of the antenna...perhaps a square steel plate?
Anyone wanna chime in with experience from that mount (Arizona)? I have heard mostly good things. Right now it is my favorite option.
I have also heard people using ferrite chokes in the installation. Is that something that is beneficial in mobiles?
Gotta admit, the antenna principles are confusing me (SWR, gain, 1/2 wave, 1/4 wave, etc...)
Thanks to everyone for sharing... I really appreciate the experience and those of you willing to enlighten others!
When you refer to an antenna being "sandwiched between the spare and gate", would this include one mounted on an Arizona mount? It seems like that would be better since it is above the tire...
Are there antennas designed to work better in the lack of a proper ground plane? (SSB-1 perhaps)
And this may be a dumb question (just got my tech), but is there any way to "fake" a better ground plane by adding material at the base of the antenna...perhaps a square steel plate?
Anyone wanna chime in with experience from that mount (Arizona)? I have heard mostly good things. Right now it is my favorite option.
I have also heard people using ferrite chokes in the installation. Is that something that is beneficial in mobiles?
Gotta admit, the antenna principles are confusing me (SWR, gain, 1/2 wave, 1/4 wave, etc...)
Thanks to everyone for sharing... I really appreciate the experience and those of you willing to enlighten others!
Found this site... KØBG.COM Very nice...
07-18-2012, 05:21 PM
#107
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Cotton Valley, St Croix, USVI
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First off, GO TO K0BG'S SITE. Read it. Love it. 
Second, note that your local amateur radio club may have a dozen lifetime's worth of practical experience and people who'd love to walk you through this stuff in person. Don't discount it!
No. That mount is specifically designed to prevent "sandwiching". For my part, I've noticed no problems with the base-loading coil of my Hustler 5/8-wave 2m antenna being behind the tire. 5 watts gets me into the local repeaters fine. On HF - including CB channels - this isn't an issue AT ALL, even with the helical dummy loads in the form of shortened mobile antennas. HF mobile installations have far worse problems with tiny ground planes; worrying about the tire is just worrying about silly things.
No antenna will work without a ground reference, not properly.
Not a dumb question at all! In fact, boaters regularly add metal plates to their fiberglass hulls to provide a proper RF ground for their marine HF installations. In a mobile application, things are different. At VHF+ frequencies you're usually okay if the mount is on a large-ish hunk of metal - like a mount affixed to the tire carrier. Below 30MHz, you need more than that; indeed, you really ought to be binding all the metallic body parts of the vehicle with a wide conductor like coaxial-cable braid, because you need the entire vehicle for an HF ground plane. And you still won't really have enough for anything other than a compromise installation as compared to a ground-plane vertical installed high and without obstruction.
It can be beneficial, but like anything extra you add to the RF chain, follow the KISS rule - use them if you find you need them. If you don't need them, you really needn't bother. If you get vehicle electronic noise on your transmitted signal, or if your transmissions wreak havoc with the vehicle's electronics, ferrite isolation can solve the problem.
I said it in another thread, but I'll say it here again: Your amateur license is a license to learn. I've been a ham for 20 years or so, I'm an Extra class, and I find new stuff to learn every single time I participate in the hobby. Luckily, hams tend to be teachers. If there's something you don't understand, there's more than likely a ham nearby who knows what you need to know and can show/teach you.
Antenna theory can be a specialized study. Where are you becoming confused?
Cheers,
Bob NQ3X
Second, note that your local amateur radio club may have a dozen lifetime's worth of practical experience and people who'd love to walk you through this stuff in person. Don't discount it!
Are there antennas designed to work better in the lack of a proper ground plane? (SSB-1 perhaps)
And this may be a dumb question (just got my tech), but is there any way to "fake" a better ground plane by adding material at the base of the antenna...perhaps a square steel plate?
I have also heard people using ferrite chokes in the installation. Is that something that is beneficial in mobiles?
Gotta admit, the antenna principles are confusing me (SWR, gain, 1/2 wave, 1/4 wave, etc...)
Luckily, hams tend to be teachers. If there's something you don't understand, there's more than likely a ham nearby who knows what you need to know and can show/teach you.Antenna theory can be a specialized study. Where are you becoming confused?
Cheers,
Bob NQ3X
07-19-2012, 05:22 AM
#108
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Meridianville Al
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks!
First off, GO TO K0BG'S SITE. Read it. Love it.
Second, note that your local amateur radio club may have a dozen lifetime's worth of practical experience and people who'd love to walk you through this stuff in person. Don't discount it!
No. That mount is specifically designed to prevent "sandwiching". For my part, I've noticed no problems with the base-loading coil of my Hustler 5/8-wave 2m antenna being behind the tire. 5 watts gets me into the local repeaters fine. On HF - including CB channels - this isn't an issue AT ALL, even with the helical dummy loads in the form of shortened mobile antennas. HF mobile installations have far worse problems with tiny ground planes; worrying about the tire is just worrying about silly things.
No antenna will work without a ground reference, not properly.
Not a dumb question at all! In fact, boaters regularly add metal plates to their fiberglass hulls to provide a proper RF ground for their marine HF installations. In a mobile application, things are different. At VHF+ frequencies you're usually okay if the mount is on a large-ish hunk of metal - like a mount affixed to the tire carrier. Below 30MHz, you need more than that; indeed, you really ought to be binding all the metallic body parts of the vehicle with a wide conductor like coaxial-cable braid, because you need the entire vehicle for an HF ground plane. And you still won't really have enough for anything other than a compromise installation as compared to a ground-plane vertical installed high and without obstruction.
It can be beneficial, but like anything extra you add to the RF chain, follow the KISS rule - use them if you find you need them. If you don't need them, you really needn't bother. If you get vehicle electronic noise on your transmitted signal, or if your transmissions wreak havoc with the vehicle's electronics, ferrite isolation can solve the problem.
I said it in another thread, but I'll say it here again: Your amateur license is a license to learn. I've been a ham for 20 years or so, I'm an Extra class, and I find new stuff to learn every single time I participate in the hobby. Luckily, hams tend to be teachers. If there's something you don't understand, there's more than likely a ham nearby who knows what you need to know and can show/teach you.
Antenna theory can be a specialized study. Where are you becoming confused?
Cheers,
Bob NQ3X
Second, note that your local amateur radio club may have a dozen lifetime's worth of practical experience and people who'd love to walk you through this stuff in person. Don't discount it!
No. That mount is specifically designed to prevent "sandwiching". For my part, I've noticed no problems with the base-loading coil of my Hustler 5/8-wave 2m antenna being behind the tire. 5 watts gets me into the local repeaters fine. On HF - including CB channels - this isn't an issue AT ALL, even with the helical dummy loads in the form of shortened mobile antennas. HF mobile installations have far worse problems with tiny ground planes; worrying about the tire is just worrying about silly things.
No antenna will work without a ground reference, not properly.
Not a dumb question at all! In fact, boaters regularly add metal plates to their fiberglass hulls to provide a proper RF ground for their marine HF installations. In a mobile application, things are different. At VHF+ frequencies you're usually okay if the mount is on a large-ish hunk of metal - like a mount affixed to the tire carrier. Below 30MHz, you need more than that; indeed, you really ought to be binding all the metallic body parts of the vehicle with a wide conductor like coaxial-cable braid, because you need the entire vehicle for an HF ground plane. And you still won't really have enough for anything other than a compromise installation as compared to a ground-plane vertical installed high and without obstruction.
It can be beneficial, but like anything extra you add to the RF chain, follow the KISS rule - use them if you find you need them. If you don't need them, you really needn't bother. If you get vehicle electronic noise on your transmitted signal, or if your transmissions wreak havoc with the vehicle's electronics, ferrite isolation can solve the problem.
I said it in another thread, but I'll say it here again: Your amateur license is a license to learn. I've been a ham for 20 years or so, I'm an Extra class, and I find new stuff to learn every single time I participate in the hobby.
Luckily, hams tend to be teachers. If there's something you don't understand, there's more than likely a ham nearby who knows what you need to know and can show/teach you.Antenna theory can be a specialized study. Where are you becoming confused?
Cheers,
Bob NQ3X
K0BG'S site is awesome! It cleared up most of what was confusing me with ground planes, RF vs DC ground, etc. I think that anyone (newbies) about to purchase/install an antenna on a Jeep should first read this site! Good stuff...
I am definitely gonna spend some time bonding before I even install. Still saving a coupel of buck for a 7900 so that will keep my busy for a while. I will probably install antenna and mount first too so when I get the radio it will be a mount and power job only.
I can see that you will never stop learning in this hobby... Thanks again.
James
07-19-2012, 03:48 PM
#109
JK Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a Wild Board cargo rack installed in my '11 JK and I was wondering where you all thought the best place for an antenna might be? I don't park in a garage so that is not a huge concern.
Here is an example of the roof rack and where it mounts to the Jeep, this is from Wild Boards website.
Here is an example of the roof rack and where it mounts to the Jeep, this is from Wild Boards website.
07-19-2012, 05:35 PM
#110
JK Freak
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 684
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by nwmotogeek
I have a Wild Board cargo rack installed in my '11 JK and I was wondering where you all thought the best place for an antenna might be? I don't park in a garage so that is not a huge concern.
Here is an example of the roof rack and where it mounts to the Jeep, this is from Wild Boards website.
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=343121"/>
Here is an example of the roof rack and where it mounts to the Jeep, this is from Wild Boards website.
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=343121"/>
I would recomend a cowl mount or mount on top of the rack.