First post, go easy on me.

Long story made shorter, got a Joying Head Unit (which is pretty awesome) but no sound. That is due to the craptastic infinity amp I have requiring canbus signals to turn on. Decided to scrap it all and will run Front-Left, Front-Right, Rear-Left, Rear-Right, Sub RCA channels from Joying HU to new Amp. The Amp will output to re terminate OEM speaker wires.

Here is a list of questions I am hoping someone can help me answer. I haven't done car audio since I was a teen so a lot of this is over my head now.

• What amp should I get? I want it to be 4-Ohm and sound better than the original but that doesnt seem like a high bar. I dont really need top of the line, where is the value sweet spot considering I am keeping the factory speakers for now?
• How many channels? I am thinking 8 will give me FL,FR,RL,RR, FL-Tweeter, FR-Tweeter, SUBx2?
• Can I get away with just one amp including power for the sub? Don't need it to sound like I got two 12's in the back just hoping for the lows to be present (something the factory amp didn't do)
• Can I use the 12v 30amp line the OEM factory amp used or do I really need to run new power direct from battery?
• Do I need something to strip the mids and lows for the tweeters and if so what?
• Anything else I need that I am not thinking of? I hear alot about LOCs but no idea what they are or if I need them since I am going totally fresh with new HU and AMP.
• Anyone know a way to get a hardness adapter for the two plugs that go into the factory amp (not the head unit harness) so I dont have to cut any wires? My current plan is to break apart the OEM amp and rip out the connectors and solder wire to them but would be willing to pay someone for a harness instead

 

Pioneer makes a 5-channel amp that should give you plenty of power, GM-D9605.
You will need to run a separate power feed from the battery. The amp has 3-30 amp fuses.
You can run your tweeter in series with the woofer up front and put a capacitor to cross it over to it only get the highs. Doing that will mean you only need 5 channels. Or you can replace the speakers up front with a component set. Make sure it comes with a crossover.
If you are running a pre-amp signal (RCA) then you don't need a LOC (Line Out Converter). The Pioneer amp also has speaker level inputs. So you wouldn't need an LOC with this amp if you did not use the RCAs.
I don't understand your last question. If you are going to an external amp, why mess with the factory one?
If you want your steering wheel controls to work, you will probably have to by an "CANBUS box", as Joying puts it.
Don't forget all of the wiring you will need. Power, RCA, Speaker, fuse, and fuse holder. Knukonceptz sells a 4 channel amp kit. You will need another RCA for the sub and more speaker wire, though.

You also might just be able to buy the "CANBUS box" and connect that between the Joying and CANBUS to tell it to turn on your amp. Then you can use what is already there if you wish. I haven't looked at any of the Joying install videos, but that is how it works on the Seicane unit.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the reply. So I understood most of what you said and reviewed the install manual for that amp and looks like a solid choice. The only part I am confused about is:

Can you walk me through this a bit. I have the following output wires from the original amp factory harnesses:

• Tweeter Left Channel +
• Tweeter Left Channel -
• Tweeter Right Channel +
• Tweeter Right Channel -
• Sub Coil 1 +
• Sub Coil 1 -
• Sub Coil 2 +
• Sub Coil 2 -
• Front Left Speaker +
• Front Left Speaker -
• Front Right Speaker +
• Front Right Speaker -
• Rear Right Speaker +
• Rear Right Speaker -
• Rear Left Speaker +
• Rear Left Speaker -

Could you help me map out where these would all go? I mean I understand the fronts and rears but the tweeters and sub (given it has two coils) I am unclear where the physical wires would go and what extra stuff (like crossovers and whatnot) would be needed and where in line they would go.