You will only need one of the two of them the SWI-JACK will work and they are fairly easy to program, I just got the axxess in stock but haven't got the chance to put one in yet. Seems like it is a breeze to install as long as your HU has a steering wheel control output wire, as it auto adapts to the vehicle and the deck might be easier hopefully! Made by metra I was skeptical when it came in but read up on it and it seems good? Let me know if you try it out!

 

Thanks for that, not fussed on manual / auto programming so I'll do some research and try to determine whether theres any difference in the end result

That would be really great thanks!!

 

It is mounted behind the front passenger seat belt (it's a 2dr JK), on the carpet covered wall. All the wiring is coming out from underneath the seat belt plastic cover, so it looks very clean. And it doesn't take up any real interior space, because that space is never going to be used by anything. Don't have a picture to show it, but hope it's clear enough. You could also use the same spot on the driver side as they're identical.

 

I used to compete, and I "live in Canada". I can tell you that when your vehicle is really cold. Like -40c, your sub will take a hell of a lot more wattage. The voice coils have to heat to the point they melt and fuse with the motor to really blow the sub. As far as plastic cones go, dont buy garbage, plain and simple. I highly recommend RE, resonant engineering. Their XXX lineup is amazing. Their components sound wicked and LOUD. Fi also makes some really good stuff. If your pockets are really deep, look up Rainbow. Never heard them in person, but wow. Audison makes some spectacular amps with small footprints. I prefer old skool Pheonix Gold myself. Nothing beats a 24k gold plated board, with the best sound quality you can buy. Good luck

 

spoke to crutchfield and theyve directed me to these 2 items

PAC Chrysler Radio Replacement Interface Allows aftermarket radio installation in select 2004-up Chrysler, Dodge, and Jeep vehicles (model C2R-CHY4) at Crutchfield.com

PAC SWI-RC Steering wheel control interface — connects your car's steering wheel audio controls to an aftermarket stereo at Crutchfield.com

do I need both of these?

 

Adding a radio and retaining steering wheel controls you WILL need both. The head unit will also need an input for the steering wheel control module.

 

You can also use the Axxess/Metra 6522-NAV and ASWC. I used the 6522-NAV on my 2010 without Infinity system and it worked perfectly. I was able pick one up for less than $15.00 (eBay).

I have no experience with the ASWC as my 2010 did not have controls.

Good luck!

 

so the head unit is well on its way and will be going in first, i'm now wondering what's involved in the install and if this is something i want to do myself or if i should be booking in to have a shop do it. i dont mind taking the time to do it myself but ever since a mates car caught fire from self installs ive steered clear of doing my own electrical work. a shop will charge me 60 bucks but i also cop the shame of asking them to install grey market gear for me.

Basically what i want to know is with these interfaces ive ordered (the pac items i mentioned a couple of posts ago), will it simply be a matter of disconnecting stock harness from stock HU and plugging that into PAC / aftermarket HU? or am i still going to be screwing around stripping splicing and soldering?

 

HU and Imprint are in, I had the install done by a shop. I'm not using imprint multiEQ at the moment as I've lost fade - I read this is a side effect of the PAC interface however I was under the impression that was only when a stock amp was involved and thought I didn't have one. At volume there is an improvement over the bog stock setup, possibly just from messing with EQ settings. However at very low volume I can hear a hiss, not sure where this is coming from?

Will let you guys know how the full system sounds when it's in pre and post sound deadening