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Another electrical question from me...

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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 03:00 PM
  #1  
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Default Another electrical question from me...

For the electrical geniuses out there...

Could a switch rated at 3A@125V or 1A@250V work for some black magic lights?

I have no idea what the amount should be. I know the stock switch is 5A at whatever.

Thanks!
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mister ed
For the electrical geniuses out there...

Could a switch rated at 3A@125V or 1A@250V work for some black magic lights?

I have no idea what the amount should be. I know the stock switch is 5A at whatever.

Thanks!
You can use Ohm's Law ( E * I = P ) to do a baisc comparison of your switches.
E = Volts
I = Amps
P = Watts

So, the first switch ( 3A @ 125v ) means
125v * 3a = 375 Watts
So this switch is rated to cary a 375 Watt load on a 125 volt system.

Now the second switch ( 1A @ 250V )
250v * 1a = 250 Watts
So this switch will only carry a 250 watt load on a 250 volt system.

Now the last switch ( 5A @ 12V ). I will assume 12 volts since it is packaged with automotive equipment.
12v * 5a = 60 Watt

So now your next question will be: " How can I determine if I can use a different rated switch on my system"? The answer: Make sure that you use an equal or higher voltage rating "WITH" an equal or higher ampreage rating. Never use a lower rated switch.

P.S. You can use some basic Algebra on the above equation to rearange it to find the answer for many different wattage and amperage ratings.

Last edited by JK-Ford; Jul 7, 2011 at 05:35 PM.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 06:31 AM
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The switch that came with the Hella lights is 10A @ 125 or 5A @ 250 so 1125 watt or 1250 watt. I'm guessing the switch rated at 375 watt just isn't enough?

Sucks cause i have limited space to work with and I just tried finding the smallest switch.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mister ed
The switch that came with the Hella lights is 10A @ 125 or 5A @ 250 so 1125 watt or 1250 watt. I'm guessing the switch rated at 375 watt just isn't enough?

Sucks cause i have limited space to work with and I just tried finding the smallest switch.
You could always use a small switch and then a relay to handle the large power. Then all the switch does it "turn on" the relay.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 06:41 AM
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There is the relay being used that came with the lights, if thats what you mean?
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by mister ed
There is the relay being used that came with the lights, if thats what you mean?
Oh ok, well then you shouldn't have to worry about the switch. It will only be handling a small amount of load required to flip the relay.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 07:02 AM
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I'm gonna try some right angle connectors for the back of the switch. I'm pretty sure my soldering wasn't the best when I hooked it all up.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by mister ed
I'm gonna try some right angle connectors for the back of the switch. I'm pretty sure my soldering wasn't the best when I hooked it all up.
So the switch wasn't working before?
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 08:47 AM
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well...didn't test it before putting it together. thats what i get for working late at night on stuff. the original switch was working fine...just was trying to do something more custom.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 12:38 PM
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Was going to show what I did so maybe there would be more of an idea...

This is the original switch I purchased. Going to switch to a SPST micromini and solder the terminals out side the vehicle rather then trying to sit in the Jeep and do it.
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This the switch from a side view. I needed a very shallow back part due to the circuit board.
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This is the two spots i'm using but the circuit board is right behind it.
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And these are the switches mounted up but pre-wired and installed in the Jeep.
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