I also love my jw speakers. Here is a pic of my home made anti flicker harness. 10 bucks at radioshack and 20 mins of work

 

I have to agree wholeheartedly with this. The new technology of LED lighting is AWESOME. So efficient, and the output is spectacular in regard to the brightness and pattern. But with the increased efficiency comes less heat, and if you drive in an area that harbors conditions for wet snow, please pay attention to your light output at night. If it seems like the light is getting more scattered -- indicated by the visibility of falling snowflakes higher and higher above the lowbeam cutoff -- stop, get out, and clean your headlight off. There WILL be a layer of snow buildup that you'll have to wipe off at intervals.

Now, dry snow? Not so much -- sluffs right off. I'm going to try a Rain X product on them next winter to see if that helps, but I'm being careful as the lenses on the TL Phase 7 is not glass: some research for the correct product is needed.

This isn't bashing, but a reminder. HID and incandescent bulbs put out the heat to melt snow on the lens: LEDs do not, unless the heat-soaked around its heat sink is pushed to the lens somehow, like earlier revisions of some designs were.

 

I previously spoke with TL about Rain-X and they advised against it. Apparently it is not safe to use on the lens.

 

Do you mind sharing the specs and/or part numbers? I might do the same thing.

 

I just got 2 4700uf capacitors from radio shack, 1 for each light. If you want the high beams done you'll need 2 extra. Just stripped back the coating on the low beam wire and soldered it on then covered the whole thing with a piece of heat wrap. Been running these with zero problems for well over a month now.

 

Hence the reason I won't use them in my jeep. I run a lot in sloppy wet snow in the night, so they are useless for me. I don't want to have to stop on the main highway to clean snow and ice off my headlights all the time.

 

It looks like you cross-connected the white and green wires with the capacitor. Is this correct? I don't know the wiring harness, so it seems a bit counter-intuitive to me. It seems almost like connecting a ground wire to a neutral wire based on the colors.

 

Yes. There are arrowns on the capacitor. They need to point to the ground wire. So positive side goes to low beam wire negative to ground

 

The best way to do this would be to use the capacitor,but use it to power a relay on pole 85 with ground on pole 86. The connect battery constant to pole 87 and the headlights positive lead to pole 30. The capacitor is only steadying voltage to the light. But, the issue is the steady voltage is still slightly lower than the true battery voltage. If you use the cap to power the relay you will get no flicker and full power to the lights.

Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.