Connect direct to battery?
Hi all,
I have installed an ARB dual compressor in my 2013 JKU and am looking for the best way to connect the on/off switch. In fact, I would like to connect it directly to the battery so that I can turn it on even if the ignition switch is not on. Using 16 gauge wire (~2.5 feet) to connect the switch (mounted on the driver side pillar) I have placed a 20amp fuse about 12" from the battery as a safety precaution. Problem is that the fuse blew even though the compressor switch was not turned on. So, maybe I do just need to run it through an available slot in the fuse box? Any suggestions?
Many thanks!
I have installed an ARB dual compressor in my 2013 JKU and am looking for the best way to connect the on/off switch. In fact, I would like to connect it directly to the battery so that I can turn it on even if the ignition switch is not on. Using 16 gauge wire (~2.5 feet) to connect the switch (mounted on the driver side pillar) I have placed a 20amp fuse about 12" from the battery as a safety precaution. Problem is that the fuse blew even though the compressor switch was not turned on. So, maybe I do just need to run it through an available slot in the fuse box? Any suggestions?
Many thanks!
I see a couple of issues here. First, 16ga wire is not sufficient for a 20 amp circuit. Second, is the switch rated for 20 amps or more?
Hooking directly to the battery should be fine. If you are blowing fuses you have a short somewhere. Moving the source to the fuse box will not help.
Hooking directly to the battery should be fine. If you are blowing fuses you have a short somewhere. Moving the source to the fuse box will not help.
Hi, I just looked at the ARB web site. The dual compressor I looked at was an approx $500 model and it said it draws 56 amps at max air. So with that in mind, you need VERY large stranded wire and a specialty fuse (60 amp?) and high powered (60amp) relay kit. At that current, you must keep the engine running to avoid draining the battery as you air up. If your compressor draws less then adjust fuse and relay accordingly.
I agree with jnabird333. If you are blowing the 20 amp fuse, you have either a short in the 2.5 foot wire, or have mis wired the switch. If the compressor does indeed draw over 50 amps, you'll need at least #8 stranded wire, a high powered relay and a connection directly to the battery. Try and put the fuse as close to the battery as possible. A 60 amp fuse or 60 amp automotive circuit breaker are fairly large and can be mounted to a solid surface. I'm sure there is a thread on the entire installation somewhere on the forum. Good luck and let us know how you are progressing.
See this forum thread. ARB High Output On-Board Air Compressor Under the Hood JK Installation Write-Up
See this forum thread. ARB High Output On-Board Air Compressor Under the Hood JK Installation Write-Up
jnabird333 and Mike,
Thanks so much for your replies! You are right, I must have had a short somewhere because this morning I tried to start my Jeep to drive to work and the starter wouldn't turn over. DANG! And the Electronic Throttle Control light is on. . . double dang! I'm not sure how to fix that one?? Maybe it is a fuse, I didn't have time to check this morning. All the other electronics jump on, no problem.
Also, jnabird333, the wire from the ARB harness to which the switch is connected and that I am trying to connect is 16 gague (even a little less) which is why I felt o.k. extending it with the 16g wire I described. So, I am not connecting the power to the compressor (did that and it works great), I am just trying to connect the switch.
I actually had it connected to a green/white wire behind the left side pannel on the driver's side and it worked great. But, it turned out to be the wire connected to the MyGIG microphone set up and was causeing a lot of noise when speaking over bluetooth, so I want to re-routing it and thought I would just go for the battery. . .
-z
Thanks so much for your replies! You are right, I must have had a short somewhere because this morning I tried to start my Jeep to drive to work and the starter wouldn't turn over. DANG! And the Electronic Throttle Control light is on. . . double dang! I'm not sure how to fix that one?? Maybe it is a fuse, I didn't have time to check this morning. All the other electronics jump on, no problem.
Also, jnabird333, the wire from the ARB harness to which the switch is connected and that I am trying to connect is 16 gague (even a little less) which is why I felt o.k. extending it with the 16g wire I described. So, I am not connecting the power to the compressor (did that and it works great), I am just trying to connect the switch.
I actually had it connected to a green/white wire behind the left side pannel on the driver's side and it worked great. But, it turned out to be the wire connected to the MyGIG microphone set up and was causeing a lot of noise when speaking over bluetooth, so I want to re-routing it and thought I would just go for the battery. . .
-z
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^^^ Glad to help. It the wire is high quality and the run is very short 16awg wire would probably work for 20amp surge. But if you extend it you need to increase to at least 14, 12 would be better. Also, if the current is maintained and not a surge the wire will overheat and fail. I am not aware of a compressor that runs at this low of current but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.... the 16awg is usually used for switch and relay coil circuitry, but not to power the compressor itself. I have a different type but I can 8awg to power my compressor.
Most think a fuse should be sized to protect the device they are hooking up. The truth is you are protecting the wire and circuitry from overheating and catching fire should the device fail. So, if you are using 16awg wire the fuse should be no larger than 15amps. (13 enclosed and 22 free air) I usually use the enclosed ratings as the hood compartment can get pretty warm and the wire is usually run through and by things.
Most think a fuse should be sized to protect the device they are hooking up. The truth is you are protecting the wire and circuitry from overheating and catching fire should the device fail. So, if you are using 16awg wire the fuse should be no larger than 15amps. (13 enclosed and 22 free air) I usually use the enclosed ratings as the hood compartment can get pretty warm and the wire is usually run through and by things.


