Connecting Windshield lights to brights
I found this diagram to be handy when I did my lights;

I mounted the relay up behind the battery. There's a bolt on the firewall that you can use. Ran the ground (85) down beside the battery to the fender grounds. Ran the power (30) right from the battery positive using an inline 25 amp fuse.
For the switched source (86) I tapped into the white with green tracer wire behind the drivers headlight - there's just enough room in there to attach a squeeze type wire splicer. I then ran that wire up the drivers side inner fender, through the firewall access hole and into a switch that I mounted in the drivers A pillar. On the other side of the switch I ran the wire back out through the firewall access hole and across the firewall to the relay.

I mounted the relay up behind the battery. There's a bolt on the firewall that you can use. Ran the ground (85) down beside the battery to the fender grounds. Ran the power (30) right from the battery positive using an inline 25 amp fuse.
For the switched source (86) I tapped into the white with green tracer wire behind the drivers headlight - there's just enough room in there to attach a squeeze type wire splicer. I then ran that wire up the drivers side inner fender, through the firewall access hole and into a switch that I mounted in the drivers A pillar. On the other side of the switch I ran the wire back out through the firewall access hole and across the firewall to the relay.
If you want to have them on a switch and controlled by the high beam then I would suggest that you take the ground wire from the relay into the cab and swith that. Always better to switch the ground instead of the hot when you can. If you short out a ground all you will do is turn on the light if the highs are on not blow a fuse. Just my way, each to his or her own as they say.


