Crazy IPF light wiring issue
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Little Rock, Arkansas
Crazy IPF light wiring issue
I wired my 4 IPF 900XS lights today, and they worked perfectly
. . . until I turned the Jeep on.
They go on and off and run with full power when the Ignition is on but the engine is off. However, they will not turn on when the engine is actually turning over.
I know I wired them properly, so what's going on?
More importantly, how do it Fix This?
Anyone else had this problem?
. . . until I turned the Jeep on.They go on and off and run with full power when the Ignition is on but the engine is off. However, they will not turn on when the engine is actually turning over.
I know I wired them properly, so what's going on?
More importantly, how do it Fix This?
Anyone else had this problem?
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,095
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Disclaimers:
- I don't claim to be an expert at wiring.
- I don't claim you are not an expert at wiring.
- I'm sure we have plenty of experts on the forum that may help you out eventually.
- This response is intended to help you out in a hurry until someone with greater knowledge comes to the rescue.
- I haven't installed after-market lights on my JK yet, but have done so on many of my prior vehicles, including my '05 TJ, without problems.
- These are a few things to keep in mind while installing lights.
- You may know some of these already, but it's good to go over them and have them in a checklist format.
- I like Kraft Macaroni & Cheese. (Not really necessary, but I thought I'd disclose it, just in case.)
Now for my response to your post:
1. Make sure all contacts to body for ground (-) are solid and tight, including grounds for relays and on/off switches.
2. Trace all wires to make sure there are no short circuits anywhere - including cuts or splices where the wires may have been pinched (firewall, hood latches, etc).
3. Make sure all (+) power leads to the fog lights are connected directly to the battery - not a fuse in the fuse box. The wire should have an in-line fuse rated for the fog lights.
4. If you want to have the lights turn on independent of the ignition, then connect your on/off switch to a non-switched fuse outlet in the fuse box. Otherwise connect to a ignition-switched fuse outlet.
Good luck.
- I don't claim to be an expert at wiring.
- I don't claim you are not an expert at wiring.
- I'm sure we have plenty of experts on the forum that may help you out eventually.
- This response is intended to help you out in a hurry until someone with greater knowledge comes to the rescue.
- I haven't installed after-market lights on my JK yet, but have done so on many of my prior vehicles, including my '05 TJ, without problems.
- These are a few things to keep in mind while installing lights.
- You may know some of these already, but it's good to go over them and have them in a checklist format.
- I like Kraft Macaroni & Cheese. (Not really necessary, but I thought I'd disclose it, just in case.)
Now for my response to your post:
1. Make sure all contacts to body for ground (-) are solid and tight, including grounds for relays and on/off switches.
2. Trace all wires to make sure there are no short circuits anywhere - including cuts or splices where the wires may have been pinched (firewall, hood latches, etc).
3. Make sure all (+) power leads to the fog lights are connected directly to the battery - not a fuse in the fuse box. The wire should have an in-line fuse rated for the fog lights.
4. If you want to have the lights turn on independent of the ignition, then connect your on/off switch to a non-switched fuse outlet in the fuse box. Otherwise connect to a ignition-switched fuse outlet.
Good luck.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Newnan, GA
your lighting issue solved.
Sounds like you are using a tap into the factory lighting to trigger your relay. If so the factory headlamp wireing it using pulsed DC power. You need to do a search for Cibie headlamp install on this board or search for daniel stern lighting and look at the diagram on his site. you need to purchase a diode and capacitor to use to clean up the pulsed DC problem of using the headlamp circuit to trigger your relays. Chris
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Newnan, GA
I found your answer
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...hlight=buzzing
Take a look at the wiring diagram a few post down the page and try this on your relays for the aftermarket lights. If you did tap into the headlamp wires to trigger the relays for your offroad lights this will fis the issue for you. Hope this helps Chris
Take a look at the wiring diagram a few post down the page and try this on your relays for the aftermarket lights. If you did tap into the headlamp wires to trigger the relays for your offroad lights this will fis the issue for you. Hope this helps Chris
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Little Rock, Arkansas
Way over me head. Thanks Chris!
Chris,
Thank you Very much. I haven't had much experience in electrical work, so would you mind helping clarify your answer for a newbie such as myself?
You are correct that I tapped into the high beam wire to trigger my relay. The installation instructions recommend doing so, and this worked perfectly when I did so on my '99 Land Rover to run the same lights. Apparently, some things aren't universal
.
First, a quick rundown of what I think I know, or, at least, what I remember from high school physics many years ago:
I understand the difference (at least theoretically) between direct and alternating currents. I believe that a diode ensures that DC power remains DC power (or converts DC or AC), by blocking the reverse flow of electrons that makes AC power what it is. Conversely, a capacitor blocks DC flow while allowing AC flow, thus allowing capacitors to be used as short-term charge storage devices.
Second: I looked at the diagram & couldn't associate it with my wiring scheme, as I am not using a terminal relay, but an IPF wiring harness. Am I to install the new equipment into the trigger wire between the headlight tap & the relay system that connects all the parts of the harness?
Third: Would this problem be fixed if I just added a fuse to the harness wire currently tapped into the high-beam wire & instead attached it directly to the battery as others on this site have recommended?
Thank you very much. I greatly appreciate your help.
Thank you Very much. I haven't had much experience in electrical work, so would you mind helping clarify your answer for a newbie such as myself?
You are correct that I tapped into the high beam wire to trigger my relay. The installation instructions recommend doing so, and this worked perfectly when I did so on my '99 Land Rover to run the same lights. Apparently, some things aren't universal
.First, a quick rundown of what I think I know, or, at least, what I remember from high school physics many years ago:
I understand the difference (at least theoretically) between direct and alternating currents. I believe that a diode ensures that DC power remains DC power (or converts DC or AC), by blocking the reverse flow of electrons that makes AC power what it is. Conversely, a capacitor blocks DC flow while allowing AC flow, thus allowing capacitors to be used as short-term charge storage devices.
Second: I looked at the diagram & couldn't associate it with my wiring scheme, as I am not using a terminal relay, but an IPF wiring harness. Am I to install the new equipment into the trigger wire between the headlight tap & the relay system that connects all the parts of the harness?
Third: Would this problem be fixed if I just added a fuse to the harness wire currently tapped into the high-beam wire & instead attached it directly to the battery as others on this site have recommended?
Thank you very much. I greatly appreciate your help.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Newnan, GA
hope this helps
Chris,
Thank you Very much. I haven't had much experience in electrical work, so would you mind helping clarify your answer for a newbie such as myself?
You are correct that I tapped into the high beam wire to trigger my relay. The installation instructions recommend doing so, and this worked perfectly when I did so on my '99 Land Rover to run the same lights. Apparently, some things aren't universal.
First, a quick rundown of what I think I know, or, at least, what I remember from high school physics many years ago:
I understand the difference (at least theoretically) between direct and alternating currents. I believe that a diode ensures that DC power remains DC power (or converts DC or AC), by blocking the reverse flow of electrons that makes AC power what it is. Conversely, a capacitor blocks DC flow while allowing AC flow, thus allowing capacitors to be used as short-term charge storage devices.
to answer your first question. the power in the head light circuit is a pulsed dc circut. Meaning that the power being fed into your new lights is turning on and off again at a rapid pace. This causes your relays to not turn on and stay on. I still don't know whi its only pulsed with the motor is running. What the capacitor is doing is storing a charge and while the power is off for that nano sec. this cleans up the pulses and powers your new light relays with clean constant power to engage the relays to work properly.
Second: I looked at the diagram & couldn't associate it with my wiring scheme, as I am not using a terminal relay, but an IPF wiring harness. Am I to install the new equipment into the trigger wire between the headlight tap & the relay system that connects all the parts of the harness?
you will connect the capacitor on the relay thats in the IPF wiring harness. As for the diode on your trigger wire it is used to prevent power backfeading into your original wire and frying your computer. it only lets power run one way which in this case is from the highbeam into the IPF harness and into the relay in the IPF harness.
Third: Would this problem be fixed if I just added a fuse to the harness wire currently tapped into the high-beam wire & instead attached it directly to the battery as others on this site have recommended? If your not up to the diodes and capacitors you can remove the High beam trigger wire and fuse it and run to the battery. How ever don't forget to turn them off. I can take pictures of my set up if it would help you see it better.
Thank you very much. I greatly appreciate your help.
Thank you Very much. I haven't had much experience in electrical work, so would you mind helping clarify your answer for a newbie such as myself?
You are correct that I tapped into the high beam wire to trigger my relay. The installation instructions recommend doing so, and this worked perfectly when I did so on my '99 Land Rover to run the same lights. Apparently, some things aren't universal
.First, a quick rundown of what I think I know, or, at least, what I remember from high school physics many years ago:
I understand the difference (at least theoretically) between direct and alternating currents. I believe that a diode ensures that DC power remains DC power (or converts DC or AC), by blocking the reverse flow of electrons that makes AC power what it is. Conversely, a capacitor blocks DC flow while allowing AC flow, thus allowing capacitors to be used as short-term charge storage devices.
to answer your first question. the power in the head light circuit is a pulsed dc circut. Meaning that the power being fed into your new lights is turning on and off again at a rapid pace. This causes your relays to not turn on and stay on. I still don't know whi its only pulsed with the motor is running. What the capacitor is doing is storing a charge and while the power is off for that nano sec. this cleans up the pulses and powers your new light relays with clean constant power to engage the relays to work properly.
Second: I looked at the diagram & couldn't associate it with my wiring scheme, as I am not using a terminal relay, but an IPF wiring harness. Am I to install the new equipment into the trigger wire between the headlight tap & the relay system that connects all the parts of the harness?
you will connect the capacitor on the relay thats in the IPF wiring harness. As for the diode on your trigger wire it is used to prevent power backfeading into your original wire and frying your computer. it only lets power run one way which in this case is from the highbeam into the IPF harness and into the relay in the IPF harness.
Third: Would this problem be fixed if I just added a fuse to the harness wire currently tapped into the high-beam wire & instead attached it directly to the battery as others on this site have recommended? If your not up to the diodes and capacitors you can remove the High beam trigger wire and fuse it and run to the battery. How ever don't forget to turn them off. I can take pictures of my set up if it would help you see it better.
Thank you very much. I greatly appreciate your help.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Little Rock, Arkansas
Still confused.
Chris,
Pardon my inexperience and incorrect vocabulary. I greatly appreciate your time and your assistance. I followed your link & looked at the electrical diagram (with a bit of help from Wikipedia. Guilty as charged.), but I'm not sure of a few things:
1) how will the pulsed direct current be fixed by a diode & capacitor (more for my edification than the actual problem of finishing the wiring)
2) I am using a pre-made IPF harness & am running the wires from (not including the grounds):
a. the battery to the switch construction
b. the switch construction to the lights
c. a T-tap for the trigger relay wire from the high-beam wire to the harness switch construction
So, where would I place the diode & capacitor in this setup?
3) what size/power/etc of diode &/or capacitor should I use?
4) Would it fix the problem to simply tap the trigger relay wire into an alternate power source?
Perhaps I'm missing something in your response. Sorry if I'm being dense.
Thanks, yet again.
Pardon my inexperience and incorrect vocabulary. I greatly appreciate your time and your assistance. I followed your link & looked at the electrical diagram (with a bit of help from Wikipedia. Guilty as charged.), but I'm not sure of a few things:
1) how will the pulsed direct current be fixed by a diode & capacitor (more for my edification than the actual problem of finishing the wiring)
2) I am using a pre-made IPF harness & am running the wires from (not including the grounds):
a. the battery to the switch construction
b. the switch construction to the lights
c. a T-tap for the trigger relay wire from the high-beam wire to the harness switch construction
So, where would I place the diode & capacitor in this setup?
3) what size/power/etc of diode &/or capacitor should I use?
4) Would it fix the problem to simply tap the trigger relay wire into an alternate power source?
Perhaps I'm missing something in your response. Sorry if I'm being dense.
Thanks, yet again.
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JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Newnan, GA
Chris,
Pardon my inexperience and incorrect vocabulary. I greatly appreciate your time and your assistance. I followed your link & looked at the electrical diagram (with a bit of help from Wikipedia. Guilty as charged.), but I'm not sure of a few things:
1) how will the pulsed direct current be fixed by a diode & capacitor (more for my edification than the actual problem of finishing the wiring)
2) I am using a pre-made IPF harness & am running the wires from (not including the grounds):
a. the battery to the switch construction
b. the switch construction to the lights
c. a T-tap for the trigger relay wire from the high-beam wire to the harness switch construction
So, where would I place the diode & capacitor in this setup?
3) what size/power/etc of diode &/or capacitor should I use?
4) Would it fix the problem to simply tap the trigger relay wire into an alternate power source?
Perhaps I'm missing something in your response. Sorry if I'm being dense.
Thanks, yet again.
Pardon my inexperience and incorrect vocabulary. I greatly appreciate your time and your assistance. I followed your link & looked at the electrical diagram (with a bit of help from Wikipedia. Guilty as charged.), but I'm not sure of a few things:
1) how will the pulsed direct current be fixed by a diode & capacitor (more for my edification than the actual problem of finishing the wiring)
2) I am using a pre-made IPF harness & am running the wires from (not including the grounds):
a. the battery to the switch construction
b. the switch construction to the lights
c. a T-tap for the trigger relay wire from the high-beam wire to the harness switch construction
So, where would I place the diode & capacitor in this setup?
3) what size/power/etc of diode &/or capacitor should I use?
4) Would it fix the problem to simply tap the trigger relay wire into an alternate power source?
Perhaps I'm missing something in your response. Sorry if I'm being dense.
Thanks, yet again.
the IPF harness that your using will have a relay in the mix somewhere. its the black box where all the wires end up. Not trying to make it sound dumb. if you look on the relay you see some numbers on the side notating the terminals. Using the numbers on the relay to match up the numbers on the diagram I sent you. The Capacitor is soldered between the85 and 86 terminal with the stripe of the capacitor pointing to the 86 terminal. the Diode is soldered between the tap wire from the high beams with the stripe pointing to the 86 terminal.
Capacitor part number 272-1017 radioshack 220 pF
diode part number 276-1101 radio shack 50v 1 amp
As for taking the tap wire loose and fusing it and routing to the positive side of the battery that would work to but the lights will stay on if you forget to turn them off. Do you have any friends that are Ham Radio buff or computer buff? If so print out the diagram and ask them to help ya out. If your near Atlanta, GA let me know and I can help ya out with it. Let me know if ya need further. Chris
JK Jedi
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,568
Likes: 3
From: Denver, CO
have you considered just not tapping into the high beam? My IPF instructions wanted me to do that but I said screw that and just went straight to the battery so I can turn them on anytime. Works like a champ. Just wanted to throw that out there in case you hadn't considered it.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Little Rock, Arkansas
Thank You!
Thank you very much for the help. The 'wiring for idiots' explanation is exactly what I needed.
I think I'm going to run the trigger wiring straight through to the battery for now, then do the full upgrade & reattach the trigger wire to the headlight when I move states and have to get everything inspected. I'm not too worried about leaving the lights on, as I think I'll notice an enormous candlepower output coming from the front of my Jeep as I exit
. I'll just deal with having to hit a button when there's oncoming traffic and I'm using the lights on the backroads. small price to pay.
Again, thank you!
--
. I think I'm going to run the trigger wiring straight through to the battery for now, then do the full upgrade & reattach the trigger wire to the headlight when I move states and have to get everything inspected. I'm not too worried about leaving the lights on, as I think I'll notice an enormous candlepower output coming from the front of my Jeep as I exit
. I'll just deal with having to hit a button when there's oncoming traffic and I'm using the lights on the backroads. small price to pay. Again, thank you!
--