I don’t understand what your saying by reduced power?

I guess we could argue what DRL’s are but I took DRL’s as separate lights that only function as DRL’s, not just turning on your headlights or other lights.
Using a fuse tap on a switched circuit does not sound any chime nor does it stay on, power is switched therefore whatever is connected to that tap comes on and off with the ignition. It requires no input from you. I think I’m going to power my light bar from that fuse tap too, making it so that you can’t leave them on by accident, which isn’t real likely but running them to the battery there is no reminder to turn them off. I could I guess knock them on by accident in daytime and kill the battery, unlikely but possible. The Cigarette lighter circuit is 20 amps, which is a whole lot of power. At 14V that’s 280 watts, now my light bar says it’s 420 watts which of course it isn’t, I haven’t measured it yet but bet it’s more like 100 watts if that.
I think marketing is trying to say it’s equal in light output to a 420W incandescent, or just plain marketing lies.
However as you now have a sneak circuit from the lighter plug on your dash you should have fuses on the tap side and the lighter side that don’t exceed 20 amps, the original fuse size, taps add a circuit, but it’s also fused so you now have two fuses and the amperage of both added together shouldn’t in my opinion exceed the original rating

But for those that install separate DRL’s like maybe the halos or whatever or other lights, a good way to power them in my opinion is by fuse tap, it modifies nothing and you can return to stock merely by unplugging it if you decide you don’t like it, no wires are cut or spliced etc. and they are cheap and installation is merely plugging into the fuse slot.
I like things that are easily reversible and leave no trace they were ever there.

If anyone is interested my 420 Watt light bar draws 4.6 amps without the engine running, so 4.6 x 13 = 59.8, so 60W rounded up.
I knew they couldn’t draw 420 because it’s 16 ga wiring which is good for only 10 amps or so. 420 div by 14 (engine running) is 30 amps.
So at 4.6 amps it’s safe to pull from the 20 amp cig lighter circuit.

 

Thanks a64pilot ...
A fuse tap is just the solution I'm looking for, but I wasn't sure which one to tap. So thanks again. Did you find a similar solution for your rear lights? I was searching through a website for a solution and came upon a product called a DLR light bar. I didn't see how it could function in the 2016 JK so I queried the vendor. They told me that the light bar used the same circuit as the turn signals, and if I wanted to run them as DLR I would have to use a fuse tap. Now I don't need the light bar, just the knowledge to move the turn signal fuse which I hope you've given me. So thanks a third time.
jimmy

 

If all your after is turning on the turn signal lights, I’d do that by the software route.
First your not modifying the stock wiring harness, with the fuse tap you will have to.
But finally I’d bet if you powered your turn signals through a fuse tap, my bet is they would no longer function as turn signals, because the tap has them on all of the time, they wouldn’t flash with the signal.
If you choose to try, I’d temporarily stick a bare wire in the backside of the plug to make the connection to validate it does what you want, if it doesn’t your only out a few bucks for the tap and didn’t tap into your wiring harness.

The headlights I bought, as they were manufactured, you turned on the DRL halos by turning on your parking lights. I thought that stupid so I powered the halos from the fuse tap.

But in my opinion if what your wanting to accomplish can be done via software, then that’s what I would do, but you know how opinions are.

I’ll probably buy Jscan myself as it seems to be a cheap code reader, and I think I want a code reader, I use to use LS-1 edit, but my Son has it, and that’s very old tech but it was very good.
I need to find something with its capabilities

 

a64pilot ... Yeah, I'm also concerned about whether the lights will flash, but the manufacturer of the bar lights seemed pretty confident ... so we'll see. I'll let your know.
Thanks for the continued advice.
jimmy

 

A64 - what I mean by reduced power is the voltage on the lights in DRL mode is about 8V not the normal 12V. This is managed by the ECU. Our lights are less bright up here until one turns the headlight switch on. Lots of guys get caught drunk driving up here going away from a bar as they see lights are on but they are dim and no tail lights come on.

 

Interesting I didn’t know that, in truth I think our Tesla is the only vehicle we have ever had that had DRL’s, at least I think it does, never looked to be honest.
I wonder what the logic of having dimmer lights for the daytime is? Just looking at newer cars, their DRL’s are usually LED’s that are only DRL’s but seem bright. I think that is what had me thinking DRL’s were dedicated lights that had no other function.

I had to look it up because I had no idea, but the JL’s dedicated DRL’s apparently dim when the headlights are turned on and bright when they are off, and are off unless the vehicle is in gear for an auto or moving for a manual, seems complicated, but logical.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/for...ghtness.36850/

 

I think this is the route that manufactures started going....more dedicated DRLs. My '16 MX-5 is like this with lower lights, separate from headlight unit, on as DRLs, and off as the headlights are turned on or when the car is not in motion. I can only think that back in the day when DRLs were ramping up, if operating at a lower voltage was a means of extending the life of the bulb or LED a bit longer than if they were full blast every time the vehicle was being operated. I can tell you that back in the day when I plunked down some $$$$ for nice JW Speaker headlights, i was not willing to have those running as DRLs and shaving lifespan off the assembly in general.