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Easy Switched Power Source

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Old 05-23-2013, 12:20 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Rwbgecko2013
Anybody get it to work on 2013's yet. Fuse box is different
I just looked at a 2013 fuse box that appears to be pretty close to my 2008 when considering the fuse tap placement.

What are you seeing that is different?
Old 05-23-2013, 12:46 PM
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i followed ron's fusetap advice on my 2013 jku to add a switched source for my heated seats - all works fine.
Old 05-23-2013, 02:48 PM
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I had tried it but did not work - I'm sure I screwed up. Any picture for 2013 fuse box location - thx
Old 10-20-2013, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
If your TIPM (fuse box) is set up like my 2008 is....

Here is a way to get switched power from the fuse box. It's easier than installing wires in the connector under the TIPM, although not quite as clean an install.

The fuse tap came from Advance Auto, Buss catalog # BP/HHH. It is rated for 10 amps, so that will be the max fuse you should put in it. (edit: I have seen them rated as high as 30 amps, too.)
For use as outlined, only the top fuse position can be used, as the bottom fuse would send power to an empty wire socket in TIPM connector C6.









HELP PLEASE!!!!!
I found your post and loved, and it worked....kinda of. My fuse tap is powering a 80A relay, which is power my blue sea fuse box. When I originally hooked this up using the fuse tap it worked great. But shortly after it started acting as if it had a brain of its own. Meaning, sometimes the fuse tap would activate and worked great, but most of the time it had a delay in it....meaning it took awhile before the fuse tap would activate the realy. Now ive moved my fuse tap into a slot where its hot all the time, and no issues. It seems my problems only arise when I have my fuse tap into slot that is hot only in the acc. position. I tried multiple slots...M8,M9 (leather seats) and its currently in M4 which is a constant hot. Any ideas?
Old 10-20-2013, 03:48 PM
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If you're powering an 80a circuit then you 'should' be pulling power off of the battery directly. If you want to selectively switch the circuit on and off then you 'should' use an appropriately sized relay to control the flow. The wire tap can be the switch wire.


Just my 2 cents.....80a is a hella load and needs more than a 12 or 14ga wire.

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Old 10-20-2013, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by IZZY_173_ABRN
HELP PLEASE!!!!!
I found your post and loved, and it worked....kinda of. My fuse tap is powering a 80A relay, which is power my blue sea fuse box. When I originally hooked this up using the fuse tap it worked great. But shortly after it started acting as if it had a brain of its own. Meaning, sometimes the fuse tap would activate and worked great, but most of the time it had a delay in it....meaning it took awhile before the fuse tap would activate the realy. Now ive moved my fuse tap into a slot where its hot all the time, and no issues. It seems my problems only arise when I have my fuse tap into slot that is hot only in the acc. position. I tried multiple slots...M8,M9 (leather seats) and its currently in M4 which is a constant hot.

Any ideas?
Must be a bad connection with the fuse tap.
If you have it in a slot that gets power when the key is in accessory, but the fuse tap puts out no power, it has to be a locally bad connection. If the slot was getting no power, you would notice lots of other things not working in the accessory position, as they all are powered from the same accessory relay bus.

If you have it in M8 or M9, you would get power only when the key is in the RUN position, which is one click beyond accessory. If these slots are getting no power, you would see lots of other things not working in the RUN position, as they all are powered from the same RUN relay bus.
Old 10-20-2013, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by karls
If you're powering an 80a circuit then you 'should' be pulling power off of the battery directly. If you want to selectively switch the circuit on and off then you 'should' use an appropriately sized relay to control the flow. The wire tap can be the switch wire.


Just my 2 cents.....80a is a hella load and needs more than a 12 or 14ga wire.

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I interpreted his post as indicating he is using the fuse tap to power the control side of a relay in an 80 amp circuit.
Old 10-20-2013, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
I interpreted his post as indicating he is using the fuse tap to power the control side of a relay in an 80 amp circuit.
I missed two little key words in his quote, good catch!
Old 10-23-2013, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by karls

I missed two little key words in his quote, good catch!
Yes, thanks Ron, I currently have it set up to switch my relay and NOT power. My terminology may be confusing at times as I'm new to this. My whole set up is like this:
I have a breaker that's getting power from battery (4AWG), from breaker to relay w/ 4AWG, from relay to blue sea fuse pod, my fuse tap is my trigger for the relay. But when I use acc/ign power it seems to have the delay. Meaning it doesn't come on right away. But eventually it all does, seems the colder it is the longer it takes. Currently I have in a slot that is hot all the time, and no issues. But I would prefer switched power. Thoughts?
Old 10-23-2013, 02:42 AM
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Yes the tap is my switched power and not my power source. I currently have my tap in a constant hot and I have no issues. But I would prefer to have switched power.


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