Free Lights
09-03-2008, 05:30 AM
#1
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Fog Install Question
Hey I got a set of free never used round fog lights. A fellow coworker bought them like 15 years ago for a Toyota FJ-40 and never used them. The lights are in mint condition each in their own boxes and wrapped in plastic.
Ok but it is just the two lights no wiring harness or switches. There are two small wires that lead out of the lights red and black. There is a bracket under the lights though.
Here is my question, how mount I be able to test to see if these work before putting them on. Second what would I need in terms of wiring them up. Finally where is the easiest place to mount them the bumper or windshield (I would get brackets).
Thanks, this is my week I got 5 never used tires for under 200 dollars and free fogs.
Ok but it is just the two lights no wiring harness or switches. There are two small wires that lead out of the lights red and black. There is a bracket under the lights though.
Here is my question, how mount I be able to test to see if these work before putting them on. Second what would I need in terms of wiring them up. Finally where is the easiest place to mount them the bumper or windshield (I would get brackets).
Thanks, this is my week I got 5 never used tires for under 200 dollars and free fogs.
Last edited by shaw2290; 09-04-2008 at 05:36 PM.
09-03-2008, 05:34 AM
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Man, for a second, I thought you were offering Free lights!
Ok, quick test - hold each wire up to the terminal of the battery. If it turns on, they work.
What you'll need.
The mounting bracket (which, you already know of)
extra wire - radio shack, auto zone
a relay - radio shack, auto zone
fuse - radio shack, auto zone
switch - radio shack, auto zone.
I'll search around for a schematic I posted a while ago on how to wire with a relay, which you'll want to do.
Essentially, you'll run power (red wire) from the battery to fuse, to the relay, then to the light.
You run the ground wire (black) to the Jeep's frame.
Find a wire in your jeep that is only on when Jeep is running (such as the left cig lighter) and tap into that. Run a wire from there to the switch, then from switch to the relay. Then run another wire from switch to Jeep's frame for ground.
What this does, is two things. It allows the lights to be on only when the jeep is running (saves battery). It also keeps you from running the higher amps through the switch, keeps it just between the battery and light.
[If you run full power from battery to switch to light, the switch can malfunction (might not be likely, but it can). Others will say its safe to not use a relay... but I always say its better to do it right.]
Ok, quick test - hold each wire up to the terminal of the battery. If it turns on, they work.
What you'll need.
The mounting bracket (which, you already know of)
extra wire - radio shack, auto zone
a relay - radio shack, auto zone
fuse - radio shack, auto zone
switch - radio shack, auto zone.
I'll search around for a schematic I posted a while ago on how to wire with a relay, which you'll want to do.
Essentially, you'll run power (red wire) from the battery to fuse, to the relay, then to the light.
You run the ground wire (black) to the Jeep's frame.
Find a wire in your jeep that is only on when Jeep is running (such as the left cig lighter) and tap into that. Run a wire from there to the switch, then from switch to the relay. Then run another wire from switch to Jeep's frame for ground.
What this does, is two things. It allows the lights to be on only when the jeep is running (saves battery). It also keeps you from running the higher amps through the switch, keeps it just between the battery and light.
[If you run full power from battery to switch to light, the switch can malfunction (might not be likely, but it can). Others will say its safe to not use a relay... but I always say its better to do it right.]
Last edited by eaglemikeo; 09-03-2008 at 05:42 AM. Reason: reading Happy's post, i figure you should add a fuse.
09-03-2008, 05:34 AM
#3
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Connect them to a 12V battery source. red to red, black to black. simple as that.
Wiring is the same as any aftermarket light.
At a minimum i would use a Relay & socket, Fuse Holder & Fuse, Switch. then hook it all up. Super easy to do, and you can always prewire the whole setup before you route it to make sure you got it right, then disassemble it and put it in place.
This pic shows the power switched, but you could also switch the ground. Personnal preference, your choice. Fuse size is detemined by light Wattage. It should be stamped on them somewhere, check the edges of the lense if they are that old. Unless they have a removable bulb, check that.
Wiring is the same as any aftermarket light.
At a minimum i would use a Relay & socket, Fuse Holder & Fuse, Switch. then hook it all up. Super easy to do, and you can always prewire the whole setup before you route it to make sure you got it right, then disassemble it and put it in place.
This pic shows the power switched, but you could also switch the ground. Personnal preference, your choice. Fuse size is detemined by light Wattage. It should be stamped on them somewhere, check the edges of the lense if they are that old. Unless they have a removable bulb, check that.
Last edited by HappyCurmudgeon; 09-03-2008 at 05:45 AM.
09-04-2008, 03:39 PM
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Here are some pics of the lights. What and how hard is it to mount them on the bumper? Also can you make a bracket if you want to mount them on the window or is is easier to buy one? And what do I use to aim them whether on the bumper or on the windshield?
Last edited by shaw2290; 09-04-2008 at 04:44 PM.
09-05-2008, 02:01 AM
#5
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Looks like this guy did, and mounted nearly exactly what you are asking.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...576#post670576
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...576#post670576
You sure the boxes say FOG light? Thems looks like KC daylighters which definitely are NOT fog lights.............
09-05-2008, 06:21 PM
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Shaw PM'd me asking more questions-- Figured I'd post it here too for further discussion and/or comment as these question often come up
Fisrt take a gooooooood
looksie at the back, top and underside of the lights- *usually* there is a little KC marking on them BUT NOT ALWAYS.
If they DO end up being Daylighters you'll know the moment you throw the switch--even in daylight the daylighters are truly blinding.
If they ARE daylighter then they are OFF ROAD ONLY lights and you will need to get a cover for them 'lest risk getting pulled over while on road in about 47 states. If they prove to be fog lights--- you can keep 'em uncovered as far as I know in a lot of states as long as they're mounted anywhere EXCEPT a top-light bar--- But I could be wrong so CHECK YOUR LAWS.
As for mounting them,....... totally personal choice: But again, if FOG lights then best to mount 'em LOWWWWWW like on or under the bumper. If they are daylighters then back to personal preference...I've a set mounted on my TRUCK at the bumper/brushgaurad and have done well there for 20+ years
The Jeep has 'em on an overhead shelf/unit/homebrew light bar of my Garvin rack.
As for aiming them--again For FOGS pretty much a *point* some distance in front of the Jeep-- NOT super far-- we're talking like 50 feet.
For aiming KC daylighters--again Somewhat personal preference. My truck has them aimed at about 100 YARDS off in the distance with a bit of a break betwen the two beams and aimed to about 4-5 feet high. SOME like to dual spot an area...I like the lil' disperesed pattern as it simply widens the area being spot lighted. Some take it further and aim each one towards the corners of the road about 50-100 yards down the road.
You WILLLLLLLLLLLL get a ton of flack if you run them without a RELAY....((but)) but I've run mine with EXTRA HEAVY GUAGE WIRE without a relay for close to those 20 years--- but relay's in the jeep
WHATEVER route you go; the relay is the SAFER route but ABOVE ALLLLLLLLLLLLLL put in a fuse that is about ONE HALF....no more than 2/3's the total rated amps FOR the switch---> yes the switch. Dont want that melting and catching fire-- you DO want a fuse to pop if they get too hot.
Relays are NOT my speciality--- so I'd say check the threads/forum or look into getting an sPOD-- they are expensive but totally worth it for a safe and clean and easy setup of all the aftermarket electrics.
Good luck & post pics!!!!
looksie at the back, top and underside of the lights- *usually* there is a little KC marking on them BUT NOT ALWAYS.
If they DO end up being Daylighters you'll know the moment you throw the switch--even in daylight the daylighters are truly blinding.
If they ARE daylighter then they are OFF ROAD ONLY lights and you will need to get a cover for them 'lest risk getting pulled over while on road in about 47 states. If they prove to be fog lights--- you can keep 'em uncovered as far as I know in a lot of states as long as they're mounted anywhere EXCEPT a top-light bar--- But I could be wrong so CHECK YOUR LAWS.
As for mounting them,....... totally personal choice: But again, if FOG lights then best to mount 'em LOWWWWWW like on or under the bumper. If they are daylighters then back to personal preference...I've a set mounted on my TRUCK at the bumper/brushgaurad and have done well there for 20+ years
The Jeep has 'em on an overhead shelf/unit/homebrew light bar of my Garvin rack.
As for aiming them--again For FOGS pretty much a *point* some distance in front of the Jeep-- NOT super far-- we're talking like 50 feet.
For aiming KC daylighters--again Somewhat personal preference. My truck has them aimed at about 100 YARDS off in the distance with a bit of a break betwen the two beams and aimed to about 4-5 feet high. SOME like to dual spot an area...I like the lil' disperesed pattern as it simply widens the area being spot lighted. Some take it further and aim each one towards the corners of the road about 50-100 yards down the road.
You WILLLLLLLLLLLL get a ton of flack if you run them without a RELAY....((but)) but I've run mine with EXTRA HEAVY GUAGE WIRE without a relay for close to those 20 years--- but relay's in the jeep
WHATEVER route you go; the relay is the SAFER route but ABOVE ALLLLLLLLLLLLLL put in a fuse that is about ONE HALF....no more than 2/3's the total rated amps FOR the switch---> yes the switch. Dont want that melting and catching fire-- you DO want a fuse to pop if they get too hot.
Relays are NOT my speciality--- so I'd say check the threads/forum or look into getting an sPOD-- they are expensive but totally worth it for a safe and clean and easy setup of all the aftermarket electrics.
Good luck & post pics!!!!
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09-06-2008, 03:19 AM
#8
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Good points, i should have mentioned the part about the fuse. You always want the fuse to be the weakest part of the circuit.
Regarding light covering laws and offroad lights...
I DONT know what they are in NY. I wish I did. I have two Rally 800's on my A-pillars, two driving lights on my bumper, and two foglights on my bumper. All uncovered. I havent gotten a ticket or a warning, yet...
3 main states that concern me as far as those laws, if anyone knows them: NY, PA, and OH. (Canada would be good to know too) If anyone does know them for a fact, or knows where I can view the applicable laws, I would greatly appreciate it.
Regarding light covering laws and offroad lights...
I DONT know what they are in NY. I wish I did. I have two Rally 800's on my A-pillars, two driving lights on my bumper, and two foglights on my bumper. All uncovered. I havent gotten a ticket or a warning, yet...
3 main states that concern me as far as those laws, if anyone knows them: NY, PA, and OH. (Canada would be good to know too) If anyone does know them for a fact, or knows where I can view the applicable laws, I would greatly appreciate it.
09-06-2008, 08:28 AM
#9
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09-06-2008, 11:12 AM
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They are bright I hooked them up the the battery to try and see if they work. They are bright but not a spot light beam more like a rectangle. I think they maybe driving lights and not fog lights. I pointed them at a car in front of me on the drive way about 5 feet away and the rectangle was about 5-6 inches wide.