Fuse blows instantly
So, ever since I plugged my car in in the winter, my M20 fuse blows as soon as I replace it. The dealership fixed it once, and it was fine for a bit, but I disconnected and reconnected the battery yesterday to install my Airaid and Poweraid and it blew again.
The EVS-1 added after purchase also runs through this fuse. Is it possible the EVS alarm is drawing too much power and I should use a 20 amp rather than 15 amp fuse? I'm taking it in to the dealer tomorrow to see if they can fix it. It is possible there is a short in the EVS alarm too I guess. I'm frustrated, this fuse also controls the interior lights, ESP and other stuff.
The EVS-1 added after purchase also runs through this fuse. Is it possible the EVS alarm is drawing too much power and I should use a 20 amp rather than 15 amp fuse? I'm taking it in to the dealer tomorrow to see if they can fix it. It is possible there is a short in the EVS alarm too I guess. I'm frustrated, this fuse also controls the interior lights, ESP and other stuff.
So, ever since I plugged my car in in the winter, my M20 fuse blows as soon as I replace it. The dealership fixed it once, and it was fine for a bit, but I disconnected and reconnected the battery yesterday to install my Airaid and Poweraid and it blew again.
The EVS-1 added after purchase also runs through this fuse. Is it possible the EVS alarm is drawing too much power and I should use a 20 amp rather than 15 amp fuse? I'm taking it in to the dealer tomorrow to see if they can fix it. It is possible there is a short in the EVS alarm too I guess. I'm frustrated, this fuse also controls the interior lights, ESP and other stuff.
The EVS-1 added after purchase also runs through this fuse. Is it possible the EVS alarm is drawing too much power and I should use a 20 amp rather than 15 amp fuse? I'm taking it in to the dealer tomorrow to see if they can fix it. It is possible there is a short in the EVS alarm too I guess. I'm frustrated, this fuse also controls the interior lights, ESP and other stuff.
I know this might be a little late, but here's a possible scenario...
The dealer might have mis-installed the white "door trigger" wire. There's supposed to be a 5->1 wire harness, and each of those 5 wires has a diode on them to prevent shorts. With an incorrect install, when you lift your hood, it would send a ground on the door trigger wire, and if the interior lights are also on, it would create a short (popping your fuse).
I'm currently installing the EVS I upgrade, and so far everything makes sense, but that white wire and it's 5->1 harness was a little tough to figure out. The docs are not that clear on it's use. :-) The fact that it's used for the hood switch (ground signa) AND for the yellow/white (12V signal) dome light is very odd. The diodes in the 5->1 harness will block the 12V from going up the harness, so I'm not sure how the EVS I is supposed to detect the dome light turning on...
Here's more on the subject... https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-electrical-lighting-sound-systems-13/evs-i-something-doesnt-make-sense-60824/
js.


