I'm getting ready to pull the trigger soon on a new head unit. I have the infinity system presently. If I plan on NOT using the infinity amp, do I still need the special harness adapter (PAC)? Finally, how many pre-outs on a head unit would you guys recommend? There seems to be so many options. I want to be able to run two amps...one for sub and one for all other speakers.

Thanks

bubba

 

You do still need a special wiring harness. The stock radio doesn't have the Red, Yellow and Black leads that were the norm for years. The stock stereo now communicates on the CanBus system. Instead of Yellow being constant hot for memory and Red being the switched hot to turn it on and off with the key, the stereo is now "told" when to turn on and off. You could dig around in the dash and run the wiring you need, but there are adapters you can buy that have a CanBus processor built into them.

I am not sure about the PAC harness. I used the Metra XSVI-6522. They are $45 - $80 depending on where you find it. I think the PAC is used to interface with the stocks amps. They are also turned on and off via CanBus instruction.

I swapped out all four speakers + two tweeters. I don't have a sub. Yet. My H/U has 2 Front, 2 Rear, and 2 Sub Preouts. Instead of two amps I HAVE to suggest the Alpine PDX-5. It has 6 inputs. Four of them are rated at 75 W. The Sub channel bridges the last two channels and is rated at 300W. Actual tested output is 119W and 410W respectively. AND IT IS TINY!!! 7" X 10" Mounted under the passenger seat.

With a 4 preout H/U you could Y the 2 front channels to make 4, and wire the sub to the other set of preouts. A H/U with 6 preouts would work most easily.

 

vernnz, thanks for the info. So you really like this alpine amp? How does it perform with the top down? Do you feel it is adequately powered?

thanks

 

Same amp just installed here, but mounted in the factory hole replacing the oem amp. it is more than enough power for powering 5 speakers and will give you at least twice (if not much more) the volume easily.

TOp down performance will depend more on the speaker installations.

 

2. Door Hard top installed.

No idea on top down performance.

We were setting the gains on the channels with the front two panels removed in a one car garage with the garage door open. So it was kind of and open atmosphere but also kind of constricted.

Volume is waaaaay more than I will need as a daily driver. Holding my volume up button causes the stereo to RAPIDLY increase volume. It spiked way high on us while we were tuning it. It was too loud but the clarity remained superb. There was no distortion at the high volume.

Adequately powered? Yeah, it had more power than I will ever need.

 

looks like I have to check out this amp then. I like the idea of one small amp to do what I need.

Another thing Im curious about...on the head units, I'm torn between the double din units and the single din's that have the retracting screens. On one hand, I would prefer the single din so the screen is hidden when not in use. But, I wonder if there will be any issues with vibration. May be better to have a double din unit no?

 

Not sure on the double din versus single...I wouldn't expect any vibrations if installed corectly and with support.

I like the look of the oem unit myself and keeps everything more stealth, but if I do change I will look into the possibility of using that large space to house both the radio and my cb.

 

I went Double DIN. All of the features I wanted were there and the cutout fits it, sort of.

Double DIN pros:
Fewer moving parts.
Touch Screen.
Everything is firmly attached.

Single DIN Pros:
Don't trust the mechanism or cheap plastic gears inside it.
Display extended and getting bumped, hit, or jarred.
More space for wiring in dash.

That's my $.02