Headlight relay buzzing
06-08-2010, 07:01 AM
#31
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Just as a quick note:
The diagram specifies a 220pF Capacitor and that is likely a misprint. It should be 220uF. 220 picoFarads are not polarized and are much to small for this application, the 220 microFarad seems more in-line with reality and they are polarized.
BTW: Nice write up !
The diagram specifies a 220pF Capacitor and that is likely a misprint. It should be 220uF. 220 picoFarads are not polarized and are much to small for this application, the 220 microFarad seems more in-line with reality and they are polarized.
BTW: Nice write up !
Last edited by JpX; 06-08-2010 at 07:03 AM.
06-08-2010, 08:11 AM
#33
JK Junkie
I am confused about the diagram. It may be that I don't have my HID kit in yet with the harness. But does anyone have a clearer picture of the cap/diode trick on the actual wiring/relay?
And I have error cancellers coming in as well, so I hear that they will not work for the high beams. Is this correct? (DDMtuning).
And I have error cancellers coming in as well, so I hear that they will not work for the high beams. Is this correct? (DDMtuning).
11-29-2010, 10:53 AM
#34
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@whpony, IcyFridge told me to look for this thread as I'm ordering a DDMTuning kit for my IPF H4 kit. Is it safe to say that I only need one 200uF capacity and the diode? I'm trying to get a hold of DDM to see if I can get a custom kit that takes the H13 input and uses H4 bulbs, eliminating the extra H13->H4 harness that comes with the IPF kit.
02-25-2011, 03:33 PM
#36
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please correct me! if im wrong....
capacitor+diode together from the ground to the white
capacitor + diodo together from the ground to the blue...
is thissss only for highs?
or this is for high/low..??? i need to install that trick for mu highs flickering....??
helppp sooon.... please.
capacitor+diode together from the ground to the white
capacitor + diodo together from the ground to the blue...
is thissss only for highs?
or this is for high/low..??? i need to install that trick for mu highs flickering....??
helppp sooon.... please.
03-01-2011, 11:56 AM
#37
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it worked
the diodie+capacitator trick worked..
just make sure u make it water proof....
just make sure u make it water proof....
please correct me! if im wrong....
capacitor+diode together from the ground to the white
capacitor + diodo together from the ground to the blue...
is thissss only for highs?
or this is for high/low..??? i need to install that trick for mu highs flickering....??
helppp sooon.... please.
capacitor+diode together from the ground to the white
capacitor + diodo together from the ground to the blue...
is thissss only for highs?
or this is for high/low..??? i need to install that trick for mu highs flickering....??
helppp sooon.... please.
03-25-2012, 07:02 PM
#39
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Do yours only buzz when the engine is running also? Mine worked as expected untill I started the vehicle with the hood up and heard the relays start buzzing... I thought I screwed something up and took it all apart again but every thing was correct. I even hooked a relay up right at the stock head lamp skt with one beam driver and the return to the 86 and 85 terminal on the realy only and as soon as the engine starts so does the buzzing from the realy.
I thought that would happen to everyone with a JK because it is based on a pulse modulated electrical system. I think that the problem is that with the pulse system the voltage is acting similar to an AC circuit insted of a steady DC current. So the current is rising and falling rapidly and not holding the relays closed which need a constant DC voltage of at least 8 volts I think it was. Any way I'll repost what I wrote up
if you want to try it. It worked perfect for me.
After installing the Cibie E-code lamps with the 85/80w bulbs I dont think you would need to try and do any better. I get a big sh*t eating grin every time I turn my lights on at night
The difference btw stock and the E-codes is amazing. The stock lamps are weak at best. I dont mind most of the plastic on my JK but when I pulled my stock head lights out and saw how light weight plastic they were, they went right in the garbage can. Its a little bit of a job to change over but not hard just time consuming. There is another issue about changing over to the upgraded wiring that does not seem to be addressed. Since this vehicle uses a pulse modulated voltage system per the FSM you need to take a few more steps with the relay wiring or the relays trigger on and off from the pulsing so fast they make a buzzing noise and you really dont get full power to the bulbs. Nothing a trip to radio shack cannot cure. Here is a pic of what worked for me.
I thought that would happen to everyone with a JK because it is based on a pulse modulated electrical system. I think that the problem is that with the pulse system the voltage is acting similar to an AC circuit insted of a steady DC current. So the current is rising and falling rapidly and not holding the relays closed which need a constant DC voltage of at least 8 volts I think it was. Any way I'll repost what I wrote up
if you want to try it. It worked perfect for me.
After installing the Cibie E-code lamps with the 85/80w bulbs I dont think you would need to try and do any better. I get a big sh*t eating grin every time I turn my lights on at night
The difference btw stock and the E-codes is amazing. The stock lamps are weak at best. I dont mind most of the plastic on my JK but when I pulled my stock head lights out and saw how light weight plastic they were, they went right in the garbage can. Its a little bit of a job to change over but not hard just time consuming. There is another issue about changing over to the upgraded wiring that does not seem to be addressed. Since this vehicle uses a pulse modulated voltage system per the FSM you need to take a few more steps with the relay wiring or the relays trigger on and off from the pulsing so fast they make a buzzing noise and you really dont get full power to the bulbs. Nothing a trip to radio shack cannot cure. Here is a pic of what worked for me.Throwing it out there, I know this is a really old thread, but I followed these steps to a "T" and I am still getting the problem on high beams with a bi-xenon setup. The buzzing is mostly coming from the lamps - I can even see them bouncing around in the sockets. But low beams work just fine. Anything new to add? I have an '08 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara... The stock halogens are just terrible.
TIA
04-30-2012, 07:07 PM
#40
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Followed exact directions and lights worked fine
just to add that i added Hella Fogs (500FF) directly into my factory 2010 JK fog light wiring and they worked perfectly. 55W max when using the factory fog harness. and for my Hella 700FF, I added them exactly as their directions said to do it, with trigger and switch to the high beam. ( and with relay and Hella harness) and then added the diode and the capacitor as shown here, and it worked perfectly the first time.
for the price of only $60 and $70 (respectively) these lights are a bargain!!!!
and, yes, having aux driving lights on ONLY with the hi beams is a LAW in most states. Legal on-road driving lights, 55W or less, that is. Off road lights (100W or 130W) can be by switch only, but never used on-road. and maybe even needing to be covered in some states.
I have seen people trying to compare $60 lights to $250-370 lights (like LIghtforce) and it is just a bit silly, IMHO. I would hope that lights that are 5 times more money would perform at least 5 times better. BTW, i do love the Lightforce lights, but the price is just too high for my budget today. (the money saved can go for new tires!)
for the price of only $60 and $70 (respectively) these lights are a bargain!!!!
and, yes, having aux driving lights on ONLY with the hi beams is a LAW in most states. Legal on-road driving lights, 55W or less, that is. Off road lights (100W or 130W) can be by switch only, but never used on-road. and maybe even needing to be covered in some states.
I have seen people trying to compare $60 lights to $250-370 lights (like LIghtforce) and it is just a bit silly, IMHO. I would hope that lights that are 5 times more money would perform at least 5 times better. BTW, i do love the Lightforce lights, but the price is just too high for my budget today. (the money saved can go for new tires!)