Just did. Started the jeep, disconnected the battery, and she stayed on. Want me to upload a video to YouTube?

As I said before. My options are valid. Some methods are better than others, but that doesn't stop even the most crude from being useful.

**Edited myself. I think my surprise read a little more angry than I intended. I apologize for that 12 hour shifts at work are killing me, lol**

 

The difference may be yours is a 2012.

It has been posted by several forum members who have pre-2012 JKs that their engine shuts down when the battery is disconnected.

 

Yeah, I stated as much in the video I recorded, lol, just in case. While it is possible that Jeep might have put in a system to do just that, at least when it comes to the 2012, the system is not present. Now, why on gods green earth, Jeep would decide to implement such a "feature" is beyond me. I can't think of a single good reason for it. Sometimes batteries die, and to think such an event would kill your Jeep when you obviously need the Jeep to stay on for the moment... Well, whatever, lol. From my stance/experience... Such a thing would be as useful as ESP on my Jeep. >.<

 

I'm tempted to try it on my 2008, but can't bring myself to try it on purpose.

Which lead did you disconnect when you tested it?

 

I disconnected black first, and then red. I am curious to know what models might have that "feature".

 

I've seen it thrice!

My 2007 Jeep
My 2008 Kawasaki Vulcan.
My wife's 2006 Mazda 6

Neither of these automobiles will continue to opperate on a dead battery. I experienced this phenomena on my wifes 6 first. I thought that I had a serious problem when it happened. I knew what was going on when the other two bit the dust. I just chalked it up to the new technology.

 

Assuming you're asking about using these lights continuously when the truck is ON (versus say for an hour setting up your camp with the truck off), then the battery doesn't really matter. The real question is whether your alternator can take it. A battery just increases your reserve capacity, which is helpful for short term overdrawing on your alternator (such as winching), or extended time with the truck off. I have 2 batteries with a solenoid between them, switched on the ignition. All of my accessories are on the aux. battery, so they won't drain the starting battery, when the truck is off, but that's a different topic.

I think I read that the JK has a 160 Amp alternator, but I can't get a definitive answer (it's not in the brochure). Anyone have a good source on this? Assuming it's 160A, however this is just the peak output, it can't take that continuously. Depending on the ambient underhood heat, cooling, and other factors, it may only be able to put out about 100A coninuously, before frying. So, the real question is are you using this much all at once?

I put an alternator output gauge on my JK to monitor this, and found that the engine alone uses about 15A to run, 20A with the Daylight running lights on, 25A with the fan on low (and each click of the fan adds 5A thus +20A on high). The AC compressor kicking in adds 20A. The factory stereo uses very little (under 1A) even on full blast. Headlights ON adds 5A. Do the math on your added lights, to see how much you're adding, and try not to exceed 100A. Note that 1 A = ~12 watts. The highest I've had my alternator up to (when winching), was 148A (for about 5 seconds).

As far as running with the battery disconnected, although I haven't tried it, I did encounter a problem with having a shop install an old fashioned, basic ammeter. (Apparently it was too 'old school' for them to know about!). Traditionally, cars were wired with the alternator wire going directly to the fusebox (AKA "TIPM" - whatever!), and then on to the battery. On the JK (at least on my 2008) however, it goes from the alternator straight to the battery, and from there a separate wire (with the green fusible link), connected to the same post, goes on to the fusebox. When it`s all connected, it doesn`t make any difference. However with the former, disconnecting the battery will leave the alternator connected to the fusebox (to run the engine); With the latter, when you remove both of those wires from the battery post, you've also disconnected the alternator from the fusebox. Perhaps simply keeping those two wires connected with a small bolt, would allow the engine to keep running?

Just my 2c.


PS - This will be my last post on this site. For some reason, anything that takes more than 5 minutes to type, will have the site automatically log me off when I try to post it, thus requiring me to RETYPE IT in a word processor, then paste it in! VERY FRUSTRATING! This, plus the moderator's policy of not allowing people to mention certain products (get a life!), means I'm moving over to the Rubicon Owner's Forum. Cheers.

 

Assumeing that the rock lights are only 35w each, this guy is pulling 180A @ peak demand.

 

are those metal spikes??? duhfuk kind of animals are attacking this thing? Or is it for defense against AT-AT's???

 

Interesting. And this is from neutral, parked, with no attempt to put it into gear? Hmm. Stupid feature IMHPO. I think I would lose my damn mind if that happened to me when I needed it not to do that... And within a couple days, would have a system to correct it. It would be ugly as all hell, lol, but it would work. Until I came up with a better system.

Good idea with the gauge in paragraph 3, lol. I'm trying to figure out a solution I like for that myself, but to monitor voltages basically everywhere I can, within reason. A sort of "BITE" is what I'm envisioning. I think I might tear into a tablet to use that as a screen to display everything. Perhaps a computer. Not too sure yet. It's just an idea at this moment.

As for in paragraph 4.. That's EXACTLY why I only rely on myself, or other electrians, etc, when it comes to electrical/electronics work. Stealership technicians/mechanics are hardly adequate when it comes to electrical issues. They don't have one tenth the training I do, nor the 10 years of experience I have in the field. I can't even begin to count how many times I've heard of cars/trucks with perpetual electrical issues. The final straw for me was when one of the mechanics messed up the electrical work on my last motorcycle. THAT is scary, let me tell you what, lol. 2 wheels and a dash that dies, and flips out like crazy when it sporatically comes back on? Screw that!

Lastly, sorry to see you go :/ I haven't had any problems your describing... Tried another browser by chance?

Hahaha..Oh lord. That might make it's way into the sig... Just saying.