I installed my KC 130W Driving lights on the windshield last weekend, they worked great. I just got done installing KC 100W Fog lights on the bumper. Everything worked great. I turned them on with the stock headlights and got the wife to admire my work. Turned them off and then back on and NO LIGHT FROM THE WINDSHIELD. Could I have blown a fuse? I am getting power to the switch but none to the lights and I think that I can hear the relay click. HELP

 

Do you or anyone else for that matter know what size and type of fuse I will need. Also how can I prevent this from happening again. Will changing the battery help?

 

I had a similar issue a few years back when I installed the same 4 lights on my TJ, check the plug to the bottom of the relay, I had so many wire ties, it was putting an uneeded strain on that plug.

 

If you keep having to put in a larger fuse, you have a wireing problem. You probably have a wire rubbing through the insulation on a sharp piece of metal somewhere. The wire harness that came with my 130 watt KC's was only 14 awg from the relay to the lights. The harness was 10 awg from the battery to the relay. 14 awg wire is only good for 15 amps. 10 awg wire is good for 30 amps. If any one of those wires pull more current than what they are rated for, they WILL catch on fire.

 

I replaced the fuse and still no lights. I quess I will look into a little deeper this weekend. I have both power supply lines for both sets of lights connected at the same place could this be a issue?

 

Are you sure you have a good ground? Where did you ground it? When I installed my lights I grounded it out to the metal piece under the steering column. I also blew a fuse the first time I turned them on and then replaced it. no problems since.

 

There is a brass or copper looking screw under the steering column and that is where I ground both the fogs and driving lights and I have been using the fogs for the last two drives to the office. I am getting power to my switch but none to my lights. Would the placement of the relays (they are placed close together) cause a problem. Where did you run your ground wire to inside the dash. Do you have a pic of where to grounded it at?

 

You have to ground the switch and the lights. I dont remember where the grounds are on the KC harness because I did not use the KC harness. The ground for the lights is probably cloase to the relay.

 

The ground for the light comes off the relay. And then you have a ground that comes from the switch. I have got both grounded. They worked for two weeks and now they dont. I am going to break everything down and find out what I did wrong. Will it matter is the relay for the fogs is right next to the relay for the longrange. I didnt know if there was a frequencey issue or anything like that.

 

As stated the switch also has to be grounded. I don't use KCs junk switches, I have LED billet switches from Autozone which are mounted to above the right speaker on the steering column area and grounded to a nut behind the panel. I don't use the POS relays after going through a couple of them that were just junk, I'm great at wiring, I solder everything and heat shrink Vs. crimping connectors and elec tape. I now run a 25a in line fused to the battery for each dedicated light, all wireloomed and proffesional looking, no relays, no problems ever. If anything gets to hot my fuse blows first. Not saying relays are all junk but so far KC's & Hella's China made relays have been crap. So simply ACC goes straight to toggle, Power from toggle to battery (w/inline fuse 25a or your choice) and ACC (lights) are grounded and toggle is grounded (also activated LED light).

Works perfect