mlax

Wow I just spent 3 hours reading posts on how to wire new lights and now I am more confused than before. I have wired lights in my old truck before. Those were individually tied in. This time I want to do it right. I will be wiring in 4 pairs of lights that I want to run off of individual switches. My question is in regards to the aux fuse box. I am looking at the painless wiring 7 circuit fuse block http://www.quadratec.com/products/97015_07.htm

First will this work
Second is this the best route to take
Third what else would I need
Forth any recommendations or opinions would be great

JK-Ford

I realy do not think that this will meet your requirements. This thing is only good for 30 amps. If all your new lights are only 55 watts each, that = 36 amps.

Yes, a distribution center would be the best route. And more complicated.

You may want to think about the switches. Do they all match? Where do you want to install them.

1st, You need to decide what lights that you want to buy. And where you want to install them.
2nd, Use the wattage values of the lights to plan the electrical instalation.
3rd, Purchase the electrical gear that meets your requirements.
4th, Start the instalation
5th, Ask for help from the wonderful people of this forum.
6th, When all else fails, see note #5

mlax

Thank you for the response. I have a shopping cart full of stuff and still not an idea of how to install it. So before I purchase things I don't need let me run a few things by you.

1. Distribution center. I have my eyes on the Bussmann mini fuse and micro relay RTMR block. I have seen it here and it looks clean installed. I don't mind spending a little extra to do it right.

2. Switches will be the rugged ridge pillar switch pod. It has room for all 4 switches again a fairly clean mount. By the way this is for an 11 JK.

3. I have the Hella Black magic 1000's for the front bumper and the 500 series for the window mounts. In the back I will be adding KC rear back up lights. I already purchased these and have them in the garage.

4. I will buy what ever is needed to make it work. Just not sure what is needed. My goal is to be able to switch on the lights as needed. I will be using this a weekend toy but don't want the lights blinding people every time I go down the road. My thought was to run power to the distributioun block and feed everything from there. I also have read in a few threads off adding a 100 amp fuse between the battery and the block. From there I get lost on how to wire from the block to the lights and a switch.

ANY ADVICE OR HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!

JK-Ford

Bussman makes a good product. However, I do not know the max amp capabilities of this product. If this product can carry 100Amps. Then you have the right idea. But if it can only carry less than 100A, then using a 100A circuit to supply it would be a bad idea.

Good choice. You will need a #14 or #16 (Red) wire from the fuse box ( M8 / M9 fuse holder ) with a 3 amp fuse and fuse holder to power all the switches. You will need one (Black) wire from a ground source near the battery ( same size that you chose above ) for the negative side of the LED indicator lamps in the switches. Finaly, you will need (1) wire per switch ( #16 or #18 And any color you choose ) from the switches back to the relay modual.

I believe that all of these lights are only 55 watts each. Correct?. You need to install (1) red and (1) black wire to each light (#16). Bond all the blacks to ground close to the battery. ( Consider purchasing a bonding strip. You can buy them in the electrical supply department at any home store.) Devide the red wires into pairs ( 2 - 1000's / 2 - 500's ) and land them on the relays. Primary fuse for each relay should be 10 amps.

Buy some "Wire Loom" to dress everything up. Cheep place to get it is same place as bonding strip. Measure and cut wires and combine them in as few looms as possible. Just mark the ends of the wire so they can be identified when you make the final terminations.

You do not have to think of the complete system all at once. Just think of one set at a time. Here is another bassic drawing to look at.

mlax

Well that makes things a lot easier. I will place my order for electrical parts today. I can't thank you enough for the help! I will keep you posted.

Mjkrakow

[/QUOTE]

what is the accessory power? Im new to this whole wiring stuff in the jeep for aux lights so im still a bit confused. could you elaborate on the left side of the drawing please.

mlax

Everything will be delivered tomorrow. Looks loke a long weekend getting it put in. A few more questions if I may:

1. For starters I am going to run a lead from the battery positive to the Bussman relay/fuse block. In that lead I will install a 100amp fuse. What wire size should that be (#8).

2. I will jump from the fuse to the relay and then from the relay to the lights, ground and switch. Now the switch will need some power from a 12volt acc. Can I run a single wire to the switch location with a 10 amp inline fuse and tap all 4 switches off of that?

3. Do I have to run the switch power off of a 12volt acc. Can I run that straight from the battery? If not where is the nearest acc line I can tap into to. The swithces will be in an a ruged ridge A-Pillar mount drivers side.

4. The lights will be individually grounded to the closest available location. The grounds from the relays will be grounded to a buss bar mounted close to the relay box. That in turn will be grounded to the vehicle.

5. I will be running #16 wire for everything except for power to the relay/fuse box. Is there any reason to run smaller wire even if it will carry the load? For the grounding bar should I use #10 wire to ground the bar to the vehicle?

What else am I missing or not seeing. I have all the plugs connections buss bar fuse box relays etc. I think I may have gone way overboard on material but I would rather have extra than not enough and not finish the job.

I can't thank you enough for the help. I would have fried something for sure.

JK-Ford

This is a power source that is only "live" when the key is in the accessory / run position.

#3 is recommended. 8 = 40A. 6 = 60A. 4 = 90A. 3 = 110A

(1) single accessory circuit to power ALL the switches. Recommend #16 wire with "3" amp fuse.

Recomend using the fuse tap device in the fuse box. I do not recommend using the battery. But either will work.

This is acceptable. But not the best choice. My recommendation: Purchase the bonding strip at your local home store. They are cheep! They are basically a square piece of aluminum rod with set-screws in it. You can find them in different lengths. Mount the rod to the fender next to the battery. You should find a bond in this location already. Bring "ALL" the grounds back to this point. Then, run as big a piece of wire as you can from the bond strip back to the negative terminal of the battery. REASON: The return path is every bit as important as the supply path. And, buy choosing this method, your new systems will be totaly isolated from the Jeep systems. If you use the frame for the ground, you will be using the Jeep system for the return path.

I know my rig doesn't look verry profesional. But I built it on a budget. Anyway, you can see the bonding buss on the bottom left corner.



A 55 watt lamp only carrys 5 Amps of load. #16 wire is good for about 11 amps. So you probably could go down to #18 if you choose.
I would like to see something bigger than #10 to the ground bar ( if you use it like discussed in #4). #10 is more than enough to bond the relays and switches. All this load combined probably wii not even be 1 A.

Wire loom. Electrical tape. Masking tape and ink pen ( to I.D. wire ends ). Zip Ties.

I enjoy this too.

bbrown626

hid = low power + simple wiring + more light

JK-Ford

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